Interior floor rust. How to "doctor it up?"

[bull]

I've been working on the rusty spots on the floor of my '68 with a wire wheel, getting them down to bare metal, and I'm wondering how crazy I need to get with treating them. Initially I was just going to grind them down and then hit the bad spots with some RustOleum primer but then I remembered that some people have really been talking up that product (can't remember the name now) that is made to encapsulate rust, or stop it??? I can't remember, it's late and I'm feeling a little retarded right now..

Anyway, what I'm asking for is a procedure for taking care of this stuff so it'll be dealt with and I can then put sound deadener over the top of it.

[JimShine]

A common product some people use is Por15. According to the company, you just need to knock off the loose rust and paint with the Por15.

I am testing that claim now. I inherited a 1969 tailpanel in very rusty shape. I am painting it now and will wall hang it. It will be interesting to see if the rust bubbles do indeed stop.

[GTX]

I used Rustshield by SEM which is essentially the same as POR-15.

I didn't have anything really nasty so I used a wire wheel and a flapper wheel sanding disk on a drill to clean it all up. After that I sprayed on the Rustshield and that was pretty much it. I think that like POR-15, Rustshield comes in rattlecans, quarts or gallons and is available in colors, I used black. I did the entire floor, ceiling, dash frame, sides and in the trunk area under the package tray area.  Also used it on the rear frame rails after I cleaned them up. Tonight I finished the seat frames and then topped them off with gloss black and a shot of clear.

It can be left as a topcoat or can be painted over with acrylic enamel which is what I did in other places. It's not thick or goopy and I've had great luck with it. In fact, when I built my trailer last year I bought a gallon ( about $55.00, no thinner or reduction needed) and sprayed it on and left it like that and there is no rust after the Winter.


http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=154

[Charger-Bodie]

first off there are many brands of the rust encapsulator paints the key is to not think of them as a miricle cure , clean the metal as good as possible before apllying the stuff and it will last longer and dont forget the best way would be to sand blast all of the rust away and seal it with a epoxy primer but if conditions make that unfeisable clean it up very good and spray or brush on some of the rust stopper stuff

[Shakey]

Another product I've heard of but never used is Rust Bullet.

I've seen the ad on Moparts and I've heard it mentioned here before.  "Is It Ever Done" has mentioned it before and from what I recall, he stands behind it.  Maybe he'll stop by and tell us more about it.

[bull]

Are these products available at most paint supply stores or do I have to order them?

[Silver R/T]

I por15'd mine then painted over it. Looks great and it doesn't have to be perfect, its under the carpet. I bought my qt of por15 on ebay for like $30 which is decent deal for a qt.

[Charger-Bodie]

the product we use is called chassis saver its basicly the same chemical make up as most of the others inc por15 ect and it costs about 85.00 for a gallon , ready to use and yes i would say that most body shop supply stores will have it on hand under whatever name they happen to carry

[GTX]

Are these products available at most paint supply stores or do I have to order them?

Here at my local paint store they carry two that I'm aware of, POR-15 and Rustshield but if you need something else they can usually get it in about 4 hours or so.

As far as Rustshield, I'd imagine if you see the famous logo SEM sign on the windows of the store they have it.


Here is a picture of the interior after I sprayed it with flat black Rustshield

[Silver R/T]

first off there are many brands of the rust encapsulator paints the key is to not think of them as a miricle cure , clean the metal as good as possible before apllying the stuff and it will last longer and dont forget the best way would be to sand blast all of the rust away and seal it with a epoxy primer but if conditions make that unfeisable clean it up very good and spray or brush on some of the rust stopper stuff

On all of these por15 and other rust paints it says not to completely remove rust, it wont adhere to clean metal. I see many guys get disappointed when it comes off in sheets and theyre like wtf did I do wrong. Well read the instructions. Of course best way would be if you do it over freshly sandblasted metal

[Charger-Bodie]

the stuff i use " chassis saver" will work over either one clean or lazy oops i mean still rusty

[firefighter3931]

Curtis, i used ZERO Rust on mine. It covers nicely over any surface and has a satin finish when dry. Just mke sure that there is no loose scale and just cover it with this product. Zero rust is available in quarts, gallons and in spray bomb cans. I sprayed mine using my sears paint gun....very easy to apply and sets up quick.



Ron

[bull]

All right! Thanks fellers!

[ck1]

I used por-15 on inside of doors and front and rear brake drums which I'm supprized thet it held up because of the heat, areas that still had rust or clean of rust I scratched with sand paper and used there metal prep and it still looks good and haven't came off yet, but car is still apart in a unheated garage for about 5 years, which I did the doors and brakes a about a year before that...

[CharlieCharger]

Curtis, i used ZERO Rust on mine. It covers nicely over any surface and has a satin finish when dry. Just mke sure that there is no loose scale and just cover it with this product. Zero rust is available in quarts, gallons and in spray bomb cans. I sprayed mine using my sears paint gun....very easy to apply and sets up quick.



Ron

Do the spray cans work as well as applied by gun? Some how I feel generic when I use a rattle can.

[bull]

Can any of this stuff be brushed on? The car is not in a very good environment for spraying.

[PocketThunder]

Can any of this stuff be brushed on? The car is not in a very good environment for spraying.

Yes, i brushed my car with por-15 and it worked well.  I coated the ceiling of the car and the floor of the car with it.  I put it in a gun and sprayed the bottom and trunk floor when i had it on the rotisserie, but that was when i was outside.   You want to be careful not to breath it in if you are spraying it.  (like everything else i guess)

Here >>   http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10796.msg146399.html#msg146399

[ck1]

Can any of this stuff be brushed on? The car is not in a very good environment for spraying.

I put mine on with a paint brush, foam and regular brush,  some of the stuff I por-15 if was visable was to scratch again and paint according to desired color like cast iron gray or black to protect from u-v rays..............I think it works better as a rust stopper from what the company told me through e-mail but it can be sprayed on................................I gonna do all the rusty spots on my floor pans and other parts of interior also, and I will brush it on...........

[plum500]

I like how POR-15 really self-levels well even when put on with a regular brush. And the stuff *is* as they say, hard as a friggin rock and nothing but LOTS of time will remove it from your skin. I would not want to breath any of that stuff airborn. But it certainly gets my vote.

[Silver R/T]

por 15 works great, I brushed it on my floor pans and it looks as good the day I did it

[Charger1973]

I want to POR15 my floors and roof before the new carpet and headliner goes in.  Im going to be cleaning up this surface rust though because there are one or 2 pin holes and I want to make sure my pan is worth keeping, and I need to fix the holes.  The rest of the pans are clean, with original paint.  How would I go about prepping it for the POR15?  I dont want to leave my floor rusty... or is there something else I should use instead?  I would brush it on, if anything. 

[ck1]

I want to POR15 my floors and roof before the new carpet and headliner goes in.  Im going to be cleaning up this surface rust though because there are one or 2 pin holes and I want to make sure my pan is worth keeping, and I need to fix the holes.  The rest of the pans are clean, with original paint.  How would I go about prepping it for the POR15?  I dont want to leave my floor rusty... or is there something else I should use instead?  I would brush it on, if anything. 

there is a stuff that por-15 sells called metal ready, it helps kind of neutralize the rust or bear metal prep before brushing on por-15, i like to brush it on, fallow the directions..........

[plum500]

The 3 recommended steps are a degreaser (like theirs, that doesn't leave any residue), the Metal Ready (also etches unrusted metal), and then POR-15.

I've never used the Metal Ready stuff myself, mostly light work with a sanding/scuffing and proper cleaning and I've still had great results over bare and previously painted stuff. Clean. Clean. Clean.

My passenger side front floor pan was good and solid, but had some pitting in the usual spot. I wire brushed/sanded it, cleaned the dust off, and used Rust Converter. I then put a light coat of POR-15's Resto-Grip over it. Stuff is tough as nails (sand sooner, rather than later). Got everything nice and smooth and blended, and hit it with semi-gloss POR-15 black. Looks like I threw in a nice black replacement pan in.

[bull]

I bought a can of POR 15 yesterday but showed up as they were closing so I didn't know abut the prep stuff until I read the back of the can so now I have to get some of that stuff.

Also, as an FYI, a guy at work told me that he's had real good luck using POR 15 over fiberglass after using the glass to cover pin holes in floor pans. I might be trying that method on some pin holes in my car's floor pans.

[nh_mopar_fan]

There's a POR15 product for that as well. Powermesh fabric. You put down a coat of POR-15 and lay this in while it'e wet etc....

[plum500]

..or this... http://www.por15.com/bRestoGRIP-Body-Filler-b?sc=2&category=148

[71_Charger_R/T]

If you want a product that isn't a paint like POR15. SEM makes a product called rust-mort. It is a phosphoric acid compound that converts the iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate, which is a rust inhibitor. (that's why they phosphate coat sheat rock screws) You want to remove as much rust as possible before applying it, the rust you cant get at in the little pits can be converted with the rust converter then you resurface as normal. It's kind of like having a surgeon remove all the cancer he can then getting chemo to stall the rest. make no mistake rust is like cancer you will not stop it, only slow it down. I restored a 68 MG-B for a friend about 10 years ago using this product, the car is stored outdoors and is still very very nice.

[ck1]

If you want a product that isn't a paint like POR15. SEM makes a product called rust-mort. It is a phosphoric acid compound that converts the iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate, which is a rust inhibitor. (that's why they phosphate coat sheat rock screws) You want to remove as much rust as possible before applying it, the rust you cant get at in the little pits can be converted with the rust converter then you resurface as normal. It's kind of like having a surgeon remove all the cancer he can then getting chemo to stall the rest. make no mistake rust is like cancer you will not stop it, only slow it down. I restored a 68 MG-B for a friend about 10 years ago using this product, the car is stored outdoors and is still very very nice.

you know my friend from high school who is into auto body and paint told me about this stuff when i first got my car, but I couldn't find the stuff anyware? dam i do a yahoo search...........

[71_Charger_R/T]

Try this link. http://www.sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164   It's real easy to use (just make sure you wear rubber gloves or your fingers start to get really slippery as your skin starts to melt off!)