Limiting mech advance

[CFMopar]

Anyone got tips on how to limit your mechanical advance? I asked this on the 1970 board but I want to know ASAP so im asking here. Do i weld both slots one slot. How much how little for a rough idea. I know its alot of trial and error but Id like to get it roughly right.

[Chryco Psycho]

I weld both slots , if you want a fast advance wled the outside , if you want a slower advance weld the inside of the slots , < I weld up approx 1/4 of the slot 

[CFMopar]

dont the springs control the rate of the advance?
I saw you on thats why I posted this here chryco 

[Chryco Psycho]

yes , but there is a stiff spring with a slot in it so it does nothing for a bit

[CFMopar]

Well I changed the springs and put a set with a single stage curve.


hows this curve now
idle 800-900 18 deg
1500 29 deg
2000 38 deg
2500 43 deg
3000 43-45 degs

I know there is to much advance and Im in the process of limiting it.

[CFMopar]

how come that damn roll pin in the base is so hard to get in. The damn bushing holes dont line up

[CFMopar]

Ok I put it alltogether fired it up and set the initial to 19 degs. Then went to to 2000 and it was at 32 degs. went to 2500 and it was at still. So I figure I welded to much of the slot?

[CFMopar]

Allright I got it this time 18 degs idle 38 at 2500 rpms.

Question though. I noticed when I had the engine at 2500-3000 the middle tubes started to glow. Is this cause of it being to lean? I got 72 jets on I figured they would be fine. When I had the plugs out they were 50/50 tanish white So i figured it was bang on. One side was tan the other was whitish.

[CFMopar]

On another note I think I messed up my reluctor and pick up Took it for a test drive seemed fine for a bit

After tromping on it the tach was acting weird. Reading way to high for the engine. Looked under the hood and and I heard a clicking sound coming from my distributor. Got home yanked it out and its got all these metal fillings in it and the pick up looked like itwas touching the reluctor.

I know I tighten it because If I didnt I would've noticed this when setting the timing. I set the gap to .008 with a brass feeler gauge as per the instructions. Put it it Lined up the one point on the reluctor with the pick up and tightened it down.

Just when I thought I had it going. I hope all I need to do is replace the reluctor and pick up or im going to be real up set

[Chryco Psycho]

sounds like you are on the lean side , I would up jet & if you are slightly richit is safer
you can file out the slots to lengthen the curve again , or if it runs well leave it
if the car still runs you probably do not have to replace anything just reset the gap open & go

[CFMopar]

When I look at the reluctor closly now I can see pieces missing out of the spokes. Small pieces but pieces non the less.

does mp make replacement reluctors / pick ups?

[kamkuda]

Here is a pic for reference. I have an old Magazine article on this if anyone needs it, you can email me

[CFMopar]

Did that part allready. Ordered a new pick up and reluctor from napa. Hopefully no problems this time around 

[CFMopar]

Well its all done car runs fine and feels good. I think I figured out what I did wrong. I put the pin for the reluctor in the wrong side. Two slots in it. One for small blocks going clockwise and big blocks going counter clockwise... Set the gap to .010 instead of .008 just to be safe aswell.

[Chryco Psycho]

yes the reluctor has 2 slots for the opposite rotation , there is an arrow by 1 slot 

[CFMopar]

The arrow was for small blocks according to the instructions of my new one.

[firefighter3931]

Well its all done car runs fine and feels good.

Ron

[CFMopar]

Thank you you guys. Especially you ron for this one. Walked me through it for the most part on the the refugee board

last question. I remebe you telling me that i should slow the curve down a bit. is 32 degs at 2000 rpms allright?

[firefighter3931]

Thank you you guys. Especially you ron for this one. Walked me through it for the most part on the the refugee board

last question. I remebe you telling me that i should slow the curve down a bit. is 32 degs at 2000 rpms allright?

No Problem TM...now that wasn't so bad was it   I'm pleased that it worked out and that you've learned a new skill....now you'll be recurving all the BB Mopar dizzy's in the GTA.  

To answer your question: put as much advance as the motor will tolerate as soon as possible...into the ignition curve. As long as it's not pinging, just leave it. Usually 18-20* is about the most a motor can tolerate on startup before the motor kicks back and starts turnng over real slow. That is why racecars with locked out ignition run seperate starter and ignition controls. The starter button allows the motor to roll over at speed and when it's rolling fast enough you hit the ignition (fire) button and she roars to life.

Good work....now it's on to the carb. Remember to have a look at those plugs for signs of pre-detonation soon....just to be safe. If you need to slow the curve down, a simple spring swap will do the trick.

Ron

[CFMopar]

Will do. I jetted up the carb today to 73's so ill pull plugs soon to get a look.

[Ghoste]

That is why racecars with locked out ignition run seperate starter and ignition controls. The starter button allows the motor to roll over at speed and when it's rolling fast enough you hit the ignition (fire) button and she roars to life. 
Ron

And yet, it is truly amazing how many guys driving pro streeted Camaros have had this type of ignition installed and yet don't know how it works.  Then they can't figure why it's hard to start.