Wire location

[Wheels of Terror]

I have a green wire and a purple wire that is unplugged coming from the harness for the charging circut undernieth my hood on my 74' 318..  I know that the two blue ones are the positive and negative for the altenator. I just do not know where the green and purple one connect to. The green wire has a brown female plug on it. The purple one does not have a plug. It is damaged. Does anyone know what they go to? 

[Nacho-RT74]

purple, water temp sender. It should be 90º female bullet terminal

blues are one to alt brush and the other to compressor. Heavier gauge should it be the alt brush and has power with ignition ON ( positive )

green is the other alt brush and carries negative

[Wheels of Terror]

Thnks Nacho! Your the best! There isn't a male part to the plug on my altenator. Do you have a close up pic of that part of the engine bay?

[Nacho-RT74]

eeeeh, on back of alt you should have two male spade prongs and one stud. The two male prongs are the brushes, one feeded with the powered blue from ignition ( same than ballast source that also arrives to regulator  ) and the other one with green coming directly and only from regulator. I'll try to catch a pic somewhere.

You can plug them indiferently, however is very tipical plug the blue wire to brush to the closer prong of stud.

Note: that is assuming you have the stock squareback alt with stock electronic regulator and brushes are GOOD isolated from alt housing. ( isolators tends to broke easily with heat )

[Wheels of Terror]

So the blue wire will be the one closest to the fender instead of the A/C compressor? Is it the blue wire with the white or black plug. I haven't peeled back the electrcal tape to see which one leads to the regulator.  I had to replace my altenator again because it was bad. i bought it from discount Auto. I also replaced the voltage regulator from Discount. I know that a member here on the board had a problem with Discount auto's voltage regulators. He replaced it about 4 times and it still did not work. He then bought a Mopar Performance regulator. It fixed the problem. He said that Discount's parts were garbage.Like I had said, i had to repalce my altenator from there within a week. They tested it off of the car. Now the Charger will start continouslly if it doesn't have a load on it like the the lights. the minute I turn on the headlights, I go to restart it and I have a dead battery. The voltage regulator is new and I am on my second rebuilt altenator. it is the correct amp which is 65 amps. Any suggestions?  I checked the obvious stuff, like wiring and fuse. Please help. 

[Nacho-RT74]

Blue wire what feeds the alt brush doesn't have fuse, just comes directly from ignition switch. You can just put ignition switch on RUN position and search wich blue wire does have 12 volts. That same wire feeds ballast, regulator, choke control and Ignition module.

On 74s  blue wire feeds also an iddle solenoid attached to front passenger side carb stud to save from engine diesel running.. is that the way how it calls ? whatever, on 74s was installed an idle solenoid that open the throtle just when you press gas pedal and start engine ( key on RUN ). When you cut power to shut off, then solenoid close throtles. I removed solenoid.

Dunno why you have blue wires with white or black plugs. In fact I don't know really if that means something

65 amps... I would install a more powerfull alt or rebuilt kit with bigger amp output. Yes, stock alts drives around that but is not enough... Mopar fault design on that. You can go with a later Mopar alt without problem and will get a plug and play job. They are at least 70% more powerfull and will guarantee charge at iddle what is the main problem on Mopars.

My advice: upgrade Charging wiring. Parallel heavier black wire from alt stud to amm stud and from there heavier red wire to starter stud relay with a fuse link in the middle, throught firewall with a grommet.

Blue wires runing allong the passenger side fender, but come and go. One of those blue wires comes from control switch, then plugs on pressure valve on to dryer. Then go back to engine bay and runs along engine up compressor clutch. Could it be routed slightly different, remember I'm on another country, but that is more less the way it takes the power to compressor. Dryer valve just allows compressor to turns on if there is gas on system.

[71_deputy]

CORRECT- It's a low pressure switch- if there is not enough gas in the system to run- the compressor will not turn on causing it to fail.

[Wheels of Terror]

I was not asking about the Compressor. I was just trying to find out i what side of the altenator bushings it plugs to. The side closest to the compresssor or the side closer to the fender. I know that one wire to the altenator is green and one is blue. Which goes to which bushing? iIs it possible that the regulator could be bad considering that it is a Discount Auto part? i did hear of a guy on here having the same problem and then replacing it for the 4th time in a row with a Mopar Performance Regulator and it wiorked perfect.

[Nacho-RT74]

Is the same which wire where plug as far both brushes are good isolated from alt chassis what being new alt, should it be.

I told about plug blue wire on the closest brush to alt stud just because kinda "safety", since in case of burn, broken cover or loose wire both wires are close. Being both positive then won't be damage, unles they make contact with body of course.

do you want to be sure if regulator is good ?... unplug regulator and ground the green wire. If you get charge, then regulator is not working. Make that only at idle because you will get MAX OUPUT from alt. Don't oppen throtles unles you still get discharge because maybe iddle is too low. If that's the case, then just SLIGHTLY press gas pedal.

if you get charge, then regulator is bad.

You can ground green wire at regulator plug to check at the same time, green wire conditions, or ground the brush where you plug the green wire

[Wheels of Terror]

Thanks Nacho.    I did find the problem. The blue wire going into the choke coil solenoid from the voltage regulator was hacked then taped with electrical tape.  The wires seperated. It was like I had no voltage regulator. Alot of the wiring in the 74 is hacked. Now that Ii had recieved my 74 Service Manual, it is alot easier.