msd alternator?

[emanscharger]

has anyone purchased the new 130 or 160 amp msd alternator that is supposed to be a drop in fit? they say it's pretty much a universal fit with the brackets for your application?

[dkn1997]

much cheaper to buy a late model mopar alt off ebay or junkyard, it bolts in too.  I put a 130 amp unit in my charger...

http://cuda66273.proboards23.com/index.cgi?board=Tech&action=display&thread=1081309590

[Steve P.]

Why do you need so many amps??  Unless you are pushing some nasty stereo amps. you shouldn't need more than 60 amps.

[dkn1997]

not many need the amps, but the old alts don't charge great at idle.  throw in a few parts store rebuilds and most of the old mopar reman units just plain suck and flat out fail right out of the box. 

I used a 130 amp unit because it was a brand new take off from an ambulance conversion shop and was only 75 bucks.  I would have been happy with a 90 amp unit. 

some do need the amps, guys running systems, efi, electric fans....40 amps don't cut it with all of that crap.

[Steve P.]

Most alternators are designed to start charging at around 900 - 1000 RPMs. They will stop charging again once they drop below 900 R's..

[dkn1997]

all I know is what I see:

Old alt= low charge at idle, heavy draw like elec fuel pump slowing down, even when used with a relay

New alt=great charge at the lowest of idles, no surging/dimming of lights when you touch the brake pedal, and no amp gauge that dances with the turn signal indicators. 

[Steve P.]

The higher amp. thing is good, but in combination with electronic regulator is great. It is possible to lower the turn on RPM by using a smaller pulley on the alternator.

I have been considering the swap to the Denso alt.  1 wire hook up and a cleaner firewall along with electronic regulator is a good thing.

[dkn1997]

The higher amp. thing is good, but in combination with electronic regulator is great. It is possible to lower the turn on RPM by using a smaller pulley on the alternator.

I have been considering the swap to the Denso alt.  1 wire hook up and a cleaner firewall along with electronic regulator is a good thing.

I considered a smaller pulley for my stock alt, but then you have to deal with ma's great decision to make that alt pulley press on....plus I got burned by 2 crappy parts store rebuilds  that took a dump when I used them with a holley projection.  would stumble at idle, then when you tapped the gas and got her up to around 1100, would purr.  swapped to the denso and it ran smooth even at 6-800 rpm. 

[Steve P.]

I went to the bone yard yesterday looking for some BB alt brackets and a Denso alt. from a Toyota 4-Runner. What a bust. Not one BB/RB in the entire place. Nor did I find one 4-Runner..  Lots of late model vans though.

I am going to hit a few more yards around here soon. I can't believe I could not even find a 400". 

[dkn1997]

late model mopar vans have the alt you need, a bolt in deal too, use your stock brackets.

[Steve P.]

late model mopar vans have the alt you need, a bolt in deal too, use your stock brackets.

Are they 1 wire/built in regulator??

[dkn1997]

externally regulated, you can use any factory dual field reg on it.  If you car already has dual field alt, then the only wire to add is a larger main charge wire direct to battery or starter relay.

[Steve P.]

Gotcha.. I think that was the reason for the 4-Runner Denso unit. It is a true 1 wire deal.

[dkn1997]

I don't get what the advantage to a 1 wire alt is.  To each his or her own, but is there some design advantage? 

[Steve P.]

I don't get what the advantage to a 1 wire alt is.  To each his or her own, but is there some design advantage? 

For me, yes..

1) I want to do away with the ALT. gauge and put in a VOLT gauge. This ends the wiring nightmare, (FIRE), inside the car at the bulkhead connector and dash.

2) It makes it easier to hide all wiring under the hood. I eventually want to have all my wiring hidden. This makes for a good start.

3) One less thing hanging around and 2 less wires. This makes for a better system due to less chances of shorts.


I am not one of the HAS TO BE FACTORY types. I want big disc breaks, return line for fuel, upgraded charging system, Quarts clock, heated seats, power windows and a toilet paper dispenser in the glove box.. 

[myk]

I am not one of the HAS TO BE FACTORY types. I want big disc breaks, return line for fuel, upgraded charging system, Quarts clock, heated seats, power windows and a toilet paper dispenser in the glove box.. 

Lol.  Amen to that.  Knowing how dangerous/flammable that ammeter wiring is I can't believe that ANYONE in their right mind would allow their car to remain hooked up in that way.  So, how are you going to hook up this voltmeter?

[Steve P.]

A voltmeter only reads battery voltage. It only needs a pos. and neg. source.   You can hook up to nearly any 12 volt source.  Key on of course.. 

[Mike DC]

 
I remember noticing some kind of late-model car recently that was built with a clutch on the alternator pulley.  Sorta like what you'd find on an A/C compressor.

That seemed like the best idea I'd seen in a long time.  You could go with a badass big-power alternator without overcharging (read: frying) the battery because it would only run when the battery actually needed the juice.  And by not being spun all the time, the alternator itself would probably last a LOT longer.  And you could probably rig it up to stay disengaged whenever the throttle is open wide, and get yourself a couple extra ponies, hehe . . .

 

[dkn1997]

I don't get what the advantage to a 1 wire alt is.  To each his or her own, but is there some design advantage? 

For me, yes..

1) I want to do away with the ALT. gauge and put in a VOLT gauge. This ends the wiring nightmare, (FIRE), inside the car at the bulkhead connector and dash.

2) It makes it easier to hide all wiring under the hood. I eventually want to have all my wiring hidden. This makes for a good start.

3) One less thing hanging around and 2 less wires. This makes for a better system due to less chances of shorts.


I am not one of the HAS TO BE FACTORY types. I want big disc breaks, return line for fuel, upgraded charging system, Quarts clock, heated seats, power windows and a toilet paper dispenser in the glove box.. 

I see the point with not haveing a regulator to take up space on the fire wall.  However, you can bypass the amp gauge while leaving the dual field system stock.  mad electric has the diagram.  What i did on my car was to do the usual screw with loctite on the two ammeter terminals under the dash, and then I did as mad electric suggests.  I took the wire running into the car from the alt and drilled out that slot on the bulkhead, then I passed it through and crimped/shrink taped on the other side..  did the same for the wire that runs from the welded splice or fusebox (I forget) back out into the engine comparment and did the same thing.  now no ammeter, and no juice on those crappy bulkhead connections.  and you cannot tell it's been done, looks stock unless you crawl under the dash.

[Steve P.]

Yup, I know the tricks. I just like the idea of single a wire.  Eventually my 65' will have no wires showing under the hood. I have even been looking into the under dash master cylinder. I saw a 64' Dodge on EBAY that had no wires showing and absolutely nothing on the firewall. It looked SWEEEEEEEEEEAT.   For now I just want to get it together enough to take all my measurements to move the motor back and hide the brake lines. You gotta start somewhere.. 

[Rolling_Thunder]

i will be going with a 160 amp alternator myself when  i get around to it...     why you ask ?   electric fans, electric fuel pump, road lights, EFI computer, and a sound system...