512 stroker

[68MoparCharger]

I just bought a 440 yesterday, and I am going to put in a 512 stroker kit from 440 source (4.250" stroke/7.100" rod).  What heads, pistons, and cam should I use to get around 650-700 horsepower?  I'd like the engine to have a rough idle, i only plan on driving it around town 2-3 times a week and to race track 1 hour away 2 times a month (2 hours round trip to and from track). I'm planning on using the Mopar M1 intake, and probably a 1090 king demon carb.  I already have the 7al-2 ignition box and I am also going to buy a pro-billet distributor.  I have a 727 torqueflight with a manual valvebody.  What torque converter should I run for the cam?  I have a 4.10 dana 60 with 4-link rear suspension.  Thanks, Vince.

[BLAM]

Vince

I am in the process of building a 505-512 myself.  Let may say there are few good threads on here worth searching.  I would search "stroker" and soak in all the data.

I am no expert here but you will need some serious heads to make that power!  Really well prepped E- heads will be close.  Indy EZ with Max Wedge ports will flow that power easy.

I think you want to build 10.5 to 1 CR motor with a zero deck for quench.  440 source offers a couple dish pistons with that kit that will get you close.

I would worry about picking the cam after you know what your head choice is and flow numbers.

I have a four speed so I am dumb when it comes to converter options.

Andy

[68MoparCharger]

thanks, i'll look into the ez heads, it sounds like they flow well.  Don't you need to have the rotating assembly with the engine to get the block zero decked?  Again thanks, vince.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would look into the EZ or SR indy heads
the Victors have a good potential  head but there are a ton of issues to get them on the block 

[BLAM]

Yes in your case, because you are buying the source kit, all parts are know except piston diameter.  You need the crank, rods, and pistons to mock it up and determine deck height for zero deck.  stroke/2 + rod length + piston CD = deck height for a zero deck.

Actually though the first thing you want to do is get the block checked out for cracks and cylinder bore thickness.  Magnaflux and sonic check.  Your machine shop also needs to tell you where your bores will clean up 30, 40, 55, or 60 over so you know what pistons to order.

Andy

[jg68]

I'm in the process of doing up a 512 also, my combo will be on the tamer side with eddy heads & a 520-530 hyd. with a 750 speed demon & RPM intake, it should be around 575 horse give or take, in your case yes get some indy EZs & open them to max wedge, they will flow around 340.

[68MoparCharger]

Yeah, the machine shop is pressure checking it tomorrow.  Sounds like the EZ's are the way to go.  If I go with the EZ's which cam should I use?

[Chryco Psycho]

what Rpm range for the powerband , solid , hyd or roller? what other parts do you have that need to match such as torque converter gears intake ??

[68MoparCharger]

2500-6500 or 3000-7000, i was thinking roller (preferably a hydraulic roller but mechanical would be fine), i would select a torque converter based off of this cam, 4:10 gears, single plane M1 intake.

[Chryco Psycho]

hyd rollers do not have agressive profiles as the lifter simply cannot take the load , my suggestion would be a fast ramp solid & 1.6 rockers to get close to the roller performance without all the expense of a true roller . I use a lot of the UltraDyne grinds for this although Engle also makes some nice fast ramp solids www.englecams.com , the KV# is in the range you are looking for with a .575 lift & 250* duration @ .050, I can get a .582/ 255* from Ultradyne as well , both of these would lift over .612with 1.6 rockers

[Challenger340]

Forget the Hydraulic Rollers at those RPM ranges,(6500-7000), doesn't work with sufficient cam events, for a properly headed 512 cubic inch,(worked INDY EZ), not "yet" anyways.
But,
Hydraulic Rollers are evolving, maybe in the near future though, as tech advances for other brands, is applied to the Mopars.

Mechanical Roller, "STREET" type profile and spring pressures would be a good bet,
or,
a Solid Flat Tappet Cam Profile, like a "Comp Grind", I like immensely for 500 Inchers. Very "trouble free".

pm sent.

Just as an option, other than "Engle, Engle, Engle," etc.

[Chryco Psycho]

Maybe Engle sucks but everytime I remove a comp grind even your comp grinds the power goes up co-incidence ........

[Challenger340]

Maybe Engle sucks but everytime I remove a comp grind even your comp grinds the power goes up co-incidence ........

Geez, sorry Neil.

Apologies if I set you off, and you're having issues with Comp. grinds and they aren't working for you,  ,

If ENGLE works for you, thats GREAT !

It was you who said "MAYBE ENGLE SUCKS" ?

not me !  I don't think ENGLE sucks .

All I said was ,  "an option OTHER than ENGLE, ENGLE, ENGLE", which seems to be the "predominant" recommendation on here.

It's always interesting to "see" comparisons of "power going up" on the DYNO sheets, "coincidence", or not, on ANYBODY'S Cams ?

DYNO, being simply for a "controlled" environment, devoid of "other" changes, generally "accepted" for "engine only" comparisons.

HYDRAULIC Cam vrs. HYDRAULIC Cam, targeted app.

SOLID Cam vrs. SOLID Cam, etc., targeted app.

"brand vrs brand".

Again, Apologies Neil, no offense intended

It was just "my opinion", for a Camshaft "option", other than ENGLE. 
The Comp. Cam profiles I pm'd to 68MoparCharger, have been good for over 800 H.P. on  low 500 inch Mopars.
I can share the "proven" dyno sheets if you wish.

Again, Apologies if I did something wrong. ENGLE aren't the ONLY Cam company out there with excellent Mopar lobes, and good R & D.

That's it, That's all.

Bob out.

[firefighter3931]

The EZ-1's or SR's opened up to Max wedge are the logical choice for a 512 build looking to make 650+hp  My preference is for a solid lifter...either flat tappet or roller. The solid lifters provide better valvetrain stability at higher engine speeds.....that is a given. 



Ron

[68MoparCharger]

thanks guys.