hey guys need help!!!! wiring ignition switch and bulk connector!!

[autodynamics]

so i changed to motor in the car, a 6.1 hemi is in there now. well my ignition switch now doesnt have power through crank. i replaced all the wiring harness on the bulk connector, so maybe i missed something? or does the factory harness not have ign through crank? well i have the wiring diagrams for the car and it appears that the red is 12v constant, yellow is start, blue is ign, brown is accy? and blk is accy? well my red has 12v on it all the time and my yellow shows crank. however my blue lost through crank! well i wonder if the switch is to blame or do i have something wrong? on my bulk connector i have 12v going to the start relay.... well can somebody break down the exact identification of the bulk connectors? and the ign switch. i must have something not powered! thanks in advance....

[mikepmcs]

I don't know if this will help but at least it's a free bump for you.  Courtesy of Chris' registry.

http://www.1969chargerregistry.com/pictures/engcompt.jpg

v/r
Mike

[autodynamics]

thanks i actually have that however does any one have it broken down in an easier form? does anyone have the bulk connector wiring more easlily  identifiied? like what wire corresponds with what letter on the bulk connector. thanks pete

[Nacho-RT74]

Yellow... start to starter relay
Brown... start position direct 12 volts to coil, bypassing ballast.
Blue... Run, source to all engine.
Black... Accesories and Run.

Note: brown wire has power ALLWAYS except acc position, just on start position 12 volts driectly from ignition and on Run position 9 volts coming back throught ballast. Blue is the same but viceversa. Ballast acts like a splice on both.

[autodynamics]

right......i need the blue wire to stay "hot" through crank. i believe the ignition switch isnt capable of that. my car also was a small block and a points car. i read the wiring schematic and came to the conclusion that red was 12v constant, blue was ignition not through crank, yellow was start, and brown was accessory. i figured out how to make the ignition switch stay "hot" through crank with a relay. but initially i thought i had a bad ignition switch. as for the bulk connectors at the fire wall motor side. i think i have it sorted out. the top connector is for the wipers. the middle connector starting from the top row working left to right i found out that (M)was the washer motor brown wire, (l) was turn signal black, next was (K) gray oil temp gauge and then (j)red 12v feed for amp gauge and ignition switch. as for the bottom row again starting from left to right (n) was ignition out blue (P)12v in to ignition switch (Q) brown from ign switch accessory and then (R) violet to temp gauge .. so am i right in the assignment? thanks for your help and input. Pete

[autodynamics]

hey nacho ...explain that again with the ballast....

[Nacho-RT74]

only way to keep hot the blue is with ballast conected, and in fact blue is retrofeeded by the ballast because brown wire what it feeds directly the coil, is spliced in to the ballast, feeding the blue line

[autodynamics]

i see... i am going to fix my problem with a relay. making the blue hot through crank and thus solving my problem. here a pic on why....

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, now it does sound logical... you don't have ballast or any of the old system LOL... then you have to get the way feeded somehow the blue line when crank since DIRECTLY from, ignition switch blue is hot just on RUN.

Since I don't know how the modern engines works, specially about electrics if you need or not a ballast or how the ignition module needs to be wired, then yes, a relay is a good idea.

[autodynamics]

[autodynamics]

yup no ballast anymore.... i will let you guys know how it turned out.... thanks for your  help