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Surface rust

Started by CaptMarvel, March 13, 2007, 10:24:42 PM

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CaptMarvel

With the beautiful central CA. weather recently, I need to get out and start scrubbing away at the 68. Body question, what can be done for surface rust if Im not quite ready to primer and paint the whole thing just yet. I have noticed a few spots around the car that someone started trying to strip the factory paint a few years ago. I just dont want it to keep getting worse where it causes necessary cut outs. If I sand on it for a minute, it comes shiny clean again. Ideas for cleaning it up and storage before I primer/paint?
Thanks...

GTX

Sent a pm

Edit:

I had the rust shown in the picture below when I first brought my car home and used naval jelly first and then used one of those medium grit flapper wheels that mounts on a drill. It's like red scotch brite pads with flaps sandwiched in between. You know what I mean?

Came out really well and wasn't hard at all, in fact lighter pressure seemed to work best. No damage to the steel and all rust gone leaving just a clean steel surface.

May or may not be what others have done but it was easy and relatively fast for me. Best of all it saved an otherwise fairly good fender. Fortunately, believe it or not the rust looked much worse than it was and there was no pitting.
Cost of materials: about $10.00







jordyjim


dodgeboy67

JUST CURIOUS........WONT THAT RUST COME BACK NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO????OR CAN YOU TREAT IT

73rallye440magnum

If left in bare metal it would come back. PPG makes metal cleaners if you were really concerned about it. Bare metal shouldn't be left for long, spray in primer for some protection.
WTB- 68 or 69 project

Past- '73 Rallye U code, '69 Coronet 500 vert, '68 Roadrunner clone, XP29H8, XP29G8, XH29G0

SeattleCharger

 
  Spot sand it, spray on a little primer on the bare metal to store it, then when ready to prime and paint car, you can always sand on those primered spots if you need to.


Why would you want anything else?  Just give me a Charger and I'll be happy.

GTX

Rust is like cancer hence the reference to cancer rust. if you leave any rust at all in the metal it will grow and return and spread but if you get it all out, prep the surface properly and then coat it you should be fine.

Those pictures above were taken about 3 years ago and the fender is still rust free today.
Maybe someday I'll post pics of the entire body. The fender was by far the worst but the body had surface rust in spots all over. I stripped it with aircraft stripper and then cleaned the car up as detailed above and no rust has returned.

By the way, I don't care what anyone says, aircraft stripper is a valid means of taking off paint as long as it's used properly and the surface is well cleaned, dried and the crevices blown out after. In the 10 years Ive used it I've had no corrosion troubles yet and that includes an airplane where corrosion is obviously more serious than on a car.

SeattleCharger

What if you can't get it all out, can you seal it at least to keep air from getting to it?  will this help it from spreading?


Why would you want anything else?  Just give me a Charger and I'll be happy.

68chrgrwife

Quote from: GTX on March 20, 2007, 12:25:32 AM
Rust is like cancer hence the reference to cancer rust. if you leave any rust at all in the metal it will grow and return and spread but if you get it all out, prep the surface properly and then coat it you should be fine.

Those pictures above were taken about 3 years ago and the fender is still rust free today.
Maybe someday I'll post pics of the entire body. The fender was by far the worst but the body had surface rust in spots all over. I stripped it with aircraft stripper and then cleaned the car up as detailed above and no rust has returned.

By the way, I don't care what anyone says, aircraft stripper is a valid means of taking off paint as long as it's used properly and the surface is well cleaned, dried and the crevices blown out after. In the 10 years Ive used it I've had no corrosion troubles yet and that includes an airplane where corrosion is obviously more serious than on a car.

we used that on the charger when we stripped the paint off of it ourselves.....that stuff is the bomb (the aircraft stripper)
MOPAR OR NO CAR BABY!
LOVING MY HUBBY: CHARGERMAN68
1973 DODGE CHALLENGER: SOLD :(
1968 DODGE CHARGER RT CLONE (OK, SO IT'S HUBBY'S BUT IT'S MINE TOO, RIGHT?)
2008 DODGE CHARGER
2005 DODGE MAGNUM R/T (YES IT'S GOTTA HEMI)!




SeattleCharger

  Navy jelly?  is this similar to that?   


Why would you want anything else?  Just give me a Charger and I'll be happy.

GTX

Quote from: SeattleChargerDog on March 20, 2007, 02:47:09 AM
What if you can't get it all out, can you seal it at least to keep air from getting to it?  will this help it from spreading?


Mind you that I'm no pro compared to some here but imo if you can't get it all off then there is a problem. With care you should be able to get it all off but I've had a hood that had little pits making it near impossible to clean off all the way. The fact that it was pitted means it's going to be hard to get smooth for paint again anyway and then the rust can always come back if I didn't get it all.

Personally I have yet to see any rust left behind and not have it grow back eventually, it always seems to find oxygen somewhere.


GTX

Quote from: SeattleChargerDog on March 20, 2007, 09:25:42 AM
  Navy jelly?  is this similar to that?   


I don't understand the question. Navy jelly, Naval jelly = same of course. Aircraft stripper  = totally different.
Costs about $32.00 gallon here at paint store and is strong paint stripper to remove all paint so you can see and address all the rust. Will absorb through regular rubber gloves and enter the skin and give severe chemical burns. Once it's in it's hard to neutralize and burns like crazy but the skin just looks pinkish.
Really heavy chemical gloves are needed. Latex just melts. Goggles and a respirator are important too since it'll eat your lungs and eyes. Once the stripper comes in contact with any filler, remove all of the filler since it absorbs the stripper and will never be right again. Then again, you don't want that old filler anyway.


http://www.kleanstripauto.com/products/removers.html


http://www.desertmustangs.com/1972coupe/Paint_stripping/Paint_stripping.htm



These guys 'ground' off the residue. You should never need to put that much work into it and you can damage the steel imo. Just have a drink and let the stuff do it's job.

68chrgrwife

Quote from: GTX on March 20, 2007, 09:56:57 AM
Quote from: SeattleChargerDog on March 20, 2007, 09:25:42 AM
  Navy jelly?  is this similar to that?   


I don't understand the question. Navy jelly, Naval jelly = same of course. Aircraft stripper  = totally different.
Costs about $32.00 gallon here at paint store and is strong paint stripper to remove all paint so you can see and address all the rust. Will absorb through regular rubber gloves and enter the skin and give severe chemical burns. Once it's in it's hard to neutralize and burns like crazy but the skin just looks pinkish.
Really heavy chemical gloves are needed. Latex just melts. Goggles and a respirator are important too since it'll eat your lungs and eyes. Once the stripper comes in contact with any filler, remove all of the filler since it absorbs the stripper and will never be right again. Then again, you don't want that old filler anyway.


http://www.kleanstripauto.com/products/removers.html


http://www.desertmustangs.com/1972coupe/Paint_stripping/Paint_stripping.htm



These guys 'ground' off the residue. You should never need to put that much work into it and you can damage the steel imo. Just have a drink and let the stuff do it's job.

Man, let me tell you-----DO NOT let the aircraft stripper get on you skin...it hurts soooooo bad.  I accidently got my forearm in it as i was painting it on another part o the car and man it hurt like hell....totally taught me to wear long sleeves when working on the car...not that it would have really helped in this case, though.
MOPAR OR NO CAR BABY!
LOVING MY HUBBY: CHARGERMAN68
1973 DODGE CHALLENGER: SOLD :(
1968 DODGE CHARGER RT CLONE (OK, SO IT'S HUBBY'S BUT IT'S MINE TOO, RIGHT?)
2008 DODGE CHARGER
2005 DODGE MAGNUM R/T (YES IT'S GOTTA HEMI)!




GTX

Yup, that's the chemical in there eating your flesh like it eat the paint. I soak in really cold water and it slows it down and eases the pain. Hertz donut?

I've heard of times when they had to cut out parts of peoples tissues due to the damage. Get it in the eye and you are in a world of hurt. Serious stuff.

SeattleCharger

  Is there something you could put on it to nuetralize the acid?   Like vinegar cures slow eating caused from working with grout and cement, the grout/cement is so alkaline, and the vinigar is acidic, the vinigar stops the damage.
  Remember in movie Fight Club?   when he gives him the chemical burn on his hand?  then he says water won't help, and pours some other thing on it to stop it from burning?  I don't know


Why would you want anything else?  Just give me a Charger and I'll be happy.

68chrgrwife

I just used cold water too and stopped working for the rest of the day, I have pics of the stuff at work thoughI just loved to paint iton and watch the paint start to bubble and blister and finally even "pop" off!
MOPAR OR NO CAR BABY!
LOVING MY HUBBY: CHARGERMAN68
1973 DODGE CHALLENGER: SOLD :(
1968 DODGE CHARGER RT CLONE (OK, SO IT'S HUBBY'S BUT IT'S MINE TOO, RIGHT?)
2008 DODGE CHARGER
2005 DODGE MAGNUM R/T (YES IT'S GOTTA HEMI)!




bordin34

I used some paint stripper meant for wood and it worked fine for me. It was foam and then the paint could be wiped off. IT BURNS.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

GTX

The way that I understand it from my mother who was a nurse is that on the surface of your skin you can wash it off but the chemical gets absorbed into your skin and burns the tissue. Water etc doesn't really penetrate well into the skin and can't go very deep but the chemical does and so it can't do much after the chemical gets in. I don't fully understand the chemical properties of water vs acid. I guess the chemical is less dense?
The hospitals apparently soak the skin etc but the chemical pretty much runs it's course on the tissue and can do nasty things to your skin and even organs if absorbed in high enough levels.
I once saw something on tv where they cut a guys arm open and removed some of the damaged muscle tissue from stripper burns. I've been burned pretty bad and it hurt but it eventually went away and I soaked in water for long periods followed by lotion to keep the skin from drying up.
After a while I learned to buy the best chemical gloves that I could afford, always wear goggles and a respirator because the fumes are caustic to your lungs too.
My burns left the skin red but the real burning was inside. It took a while for it to go away.

It's really no big deal if you are safe about it. I used no gloves for short periods before I learned what it can do and it wasn't too bad.

bordin34

When it first got on me it felt like water so I thought it wouldnt burn, about 2 minutes later it started burning and hurt really bad. I let it run its course ad in 10 minutes the burning stopped.

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

68chrgrwife

Quote from: bordin34 on March 21, 2007, 03:10:54 PM
When it first got on me it felt like water so I thought it wouldnt burn, about 2 minutes later it started burning and hurt really bad. I let it run its course ad in 10 minutes the burning stopped.

well maybe becaue i am a girl and have sensitive skin my reaction was different, I felt it almost immediatly and ran it under cool water and it hurt for a few hours....
MOPAR OR NO CAR BABY!
LOVING MY HUBBY: CHARGERMAN68
1973 DODGE CHALLENGER: SOLD :(
1968 DODGE CHARGER RT CLONE (OK, SO IT'S HUBBY'S BUT IT'S MINE TOO, RIGHT?)
2008 DODGE CHARGER
2005 DODGE MAGNUM R/T (YES IT'S GOTTA HEMI)!




bordin34

I used a different stripper also so maybe it was less intense,

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ