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Trunk floor how to?

Started by GTX, February 06, 2007, 02:35:38 PM

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GTX

Has anyone ever put up a step by step how to on putting in a new trunk floor on a 2nd gen Charger?
I thought I saw one once but can't remember where.
I need some info, as detailed as possible.

mopar_madman

I think mopar muscle web site has it in the tech section
1973 Dodge Charger
1968 Plymouth Road Runner
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger

moparguy01

find all the spot welds then cut them out and remove the floor pretty much. hard to explain, but i guess to me its not hard to do. I've done a few of them though....

GTX

Anyone have any recommendations on a decent spot weld cutter?
As a rule I'm not a huge fan of Harbor Freight but I wonder if they have anything that works?

Chatt69chgr

Blair makes one that a lot of body shops use.

AirborneSilva

I just ordered a spot weld cutter from eastwood, paid $20 for it so I hope it is a descent one.   Here's the link

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1160&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=1160

bill440rt

Not to disappoint you Airborne, but the Eastwood one sucks. I bought one at their booth at a swap meet, even bought some extra tips. It still was not enough to remove the trunk flloor. My floor was rusted, thin, & weak, & it ate up the Eastwood bits like it was nothing.

I ended up doing it the old fashioned way: drill a 1/8" hole thru the center of the spot weld. Countersink it with a larger bit thru just the top layer of metal, then use an air chisel or a chisel by hand to break the spot welds. Took me a weekend to remove it along with the rear valence.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

AirborneSilva

Damn, yeah that does disapoint me  :-[

Charger-Bodie

i like to use an electric gringer to remove spot welds it leaves a nicer surface for welding [i use a spot welder] and its alot faster just do youreself a favor and mark all of the welds with a bright colored paint marker before you start whichever method you choose ;D
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

xghobo

Quote from: Chatt69chgr on February 06, 2007, 07:10:13 PM
Blair makes one that a lot of body shops use.

Do yourself a favor and get a Blair kit for spotwelds. It will be the best $40 you will spend to remove spotwelds.

nh_mopar_fan

Airborne,

You actually have anything in that trunk left to cut out?

GTX

After doing some research I decided to get a Blair. Thanks guys for turning me on to them.

Now I'll wait for it to arrive and get to work. I'm still leary about putting in the new panels though.
Leave it to me to screw them up!

mopar_madman

1973 Dodge Charger
1968 Plymouth Road Runner
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger

Charger-Bodie

ive been doing body work basicly since i was born 36 years ago [my dad had a body shop when i was born] and drilling welds sucks try the grinding method and you will never look back plus you you dont have pilot holes all over youre rails and whatever other parts you are leaving , somethings need to be drilled but for the most part grinding is the way to go hands down period
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

AirborneSilva

Quote from: nh_mopar_fan on February 07, 2007, 12:20:30 PM
Airborne,

You actually have anything in that trunk left to cut out?

There is a little good stuff left, and it looks like I am replacing the whole rails so the axle hump and most of the back seat area will stay. 

AirborneSilva

Quote from: 1hot68 on February 07, 2007, 04:49:19 PM
ive been doing body work basicly since i was born 36 years ago [my dad had a body shop when i was born] and drilling welds sucks try the grinding method and you will never look back plus you you dont have pilot holes all over youre rails and whatever other parts you are leaving , somethings need to be drilled but for the most part grinding is the way to go hands down period

Would you care to elaborate?  The way I'm picturing it you would destroy the panel you are grinding away the spot weld on.  Now if all you're concerned with is getting the rail then I can see it, but if you want a floor pan or something like that saved then I think that using a grinder would be a bad idea.  I'm not saying you are wrong just asking a question, basicly, and looking for a little clarification is all.....  Thanks

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: AirborneSilva on February 07, 2007, 07:05:46 PM
Quote from: 1hot68 on February 07, 2007, 04:49:19 PM
ive been doing body work basicly since i was born 36 years ago [my dad had a body shop when i was born] and drilling welds sucks try the grinding method and you will never look back plus you you dont have pilot holes all over youre rails and whatever other parts you are leaving , somethings need to be drilled but for the most part grinding is the way to go hands down period

Would you care to elaborate?  The way I'm picturing it you would destroy the panel you are grinding away the spot weld on.  Now if all you're concerned with is getting the rail then I can see it, but if you want a floor pan or something like that saved then I think that using a grinder would be a bad idea.  I'm not saying you are wrong just asking a question, basicly, and looking for a little clarification is all.....  Thanks

you are right the grinding method is only for removing a part that will be disgarded and with that said i still wouldnt buy a blair or any other spotweld bit that uses a pilot hole for what they cost you can buy a good set of drill bits and just keep sharpening them ....the blair weld cutters are notted for braking and the center pin in a pain to keep working good all around a regular bit works almost as good and is ALOT cheaper than a blair
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

AirborneSilva

could you just center punch the spot weld then use a 3/8 drill bit?

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: AirborneSilva on February 07, 2007, 07:37:03 PM
could you just center punch the spot weld then use a 3/8 drill bit?

yes you can thats what i do when i do use a bit and another thing about the blair is that you still have to grind the weld off part b when you get part a removed anyway :P
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

hemi-hampton

Another way is to grind away spot weld using a Die Grinder or Cutting wheel with a 3M Green Corps 3" cutting disc but use the really think 1/4" wide disc not the paper thin ones. I prefer the Blair myself. They also make Spot Weld Kits that contain about 6 different size cutting heads but they are exspensive. LEON.

69fourspd

Here are two good sites to look at:
http://www.69hemi.com/sheet.html
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howto/5147_trunk_floor_install/index.html

I just got done with mine, and it was a pain in the butt.  I bought the Eastwood spot weld remover and it crapped out after about 30 welds.  Just make sure you keep your bit loobed up.  After the spot weld remover was junk,  I used a 4" grinder and a die grinder for tight spots.  This worked out well and I also recommend it.  Also, you wont have to go back weld in any holes you may slip through on. 

GTX

Yeah, the 69hemi one was the one that I had and lost the address to. I also like the moparmuscle one and made it into a pdf file to save. shhh, it's a secret....... :engel016:

Thanks! :cheers:

Someday I should make all of my tech articles in pdf available for download.

AirborneSilva

Quote from: GTX on February 08, 2007, 01:39:33 PM


Someday I should make all of my tech articles in pdf available for download.

Yeah, we'd all appreciate that  :icon_smile_big: :yesnod:

69fourspd

No problem. Good luck with your trunk project.  I took plenty of pictures myself if you need anything for reference. 

toqwik

My floors were really bad also.  I used an air hammer, slid it between the floor and ral, split it apart, removed all the bad floor, then used a grinder to clean up the rails.  Alot easier working with all that rusty, jagged metal gone.  Also remember to treat/prime/paint inside your framerails before installing you ned floors.  Good luck, it's not that bad....Scott