Mopar Muscle Dana 60 Conversion Article

[supserdave]

This may be a dumb question, but can you use 8 3/4 axels in a dana 60 build like this? Get some green bearings, a set of B body axels, and weld the ends on?

I thought I read this somewhere, but maybe there not the right size I believe there both 35 spline?

[defiance]

I believe they're the right size, so yes, that would probably work.  Not 100% sure about the spline count in an 8-3/4, but if anyone can confirm they're 35, I'll add that to my write-up.  Unfortunately I need to keep my 8-3/4 intact for a while yet, so I can't sacrifice mine...  Sad, too, since it's an open carrier 2.76 ratio- meaning it's worth diddly freakin' squat!

Since new axles are $300/set from Doctordiff with green bearings pre-installed, where the 8-3/4 axles would require new bearings, at nearly $100/set, the cost difference is around $200.  You'd have to press on the snap rings, but if you've got an 8-3/4 to sacrifice, and it's not worth $200, that might be the best way to go.

Although, as a note, Doctordiff's $300 set won't work for 3rd gens   He had them made in bulk in sizes he could cut down to work with 2nd gen B-bodies and all E- and A-bodies, but not quite long enough for 3rd gen b-bodies... so I had to order the $400 set.  So, that's another $100 ...

I think it's been said before, this isn't going to save anybody much money

*edit*- Looks like most 8-3/4 axles seem to be 30-spline.  The diameter, axle bearings, etc are the same, so the 8-3/4 axles COULD be used, but you'd just need a different powr-lok rebuild kit, and you'd be giving up a little bit of reliability.  Not that 30 spline is 'bad', Just a consideration.

[d72hemi]

*edit*- Looks like most 8-3/4 axles seem to be 30-spline. The diameter, axle bearings, etc are the same, so the 8-3/4 axles COULD be used, but you'd just need a different powr-lok rebuild kit, and you'd be giving up a little bit of reliability. Not that 30 spline is 'bad', Just a consideration.

Dont forget that 8 3/4 axles are equal length, and Dana 60 are not. One side is longer than the other (right I think).

Ian

[defiance]

Are you sure?  I thought the entire drivetrain was 1-3/8" offset? 
Sorry, I'm still picking this stuff up, LOTS of details to sift through

[Chatt69chgr]

Some of the C-body 8-3/4 axles/housing are pretty wide compared to the Charger.  If those axles were long enough, they could be cut off to fit the Dana configuration and resplined.  I do remember reading that you have to be careful when contemplating resplining an axle since some are smaller diameter past the spline for a ways so would not be candidates for resplining.  I don't know if any are long enough to do this but even if they were, you would have to determine possible doners, pull the axles to see if they would work, pay for them, pay for your gas to get them, and then either ship them or take them to a respliner and pay him to respline and ship back to you.  After you had done all of this, it might be cheaper to just buy new axles.  I don't know about the spline count but I guess it is possilbe that if it were the same and if one of the axles would work as is, then you would only have to cut the other one and respline it.  All in all, interesting, but would require someone with a lot of data on MOPAR axles to answer.

[sunroofsuperbird]

I used a 86 ford truck 1 ton rear picked up for free. and I took a 8 3/4 B body rear and cut axle tubes off about 3" back and used stock axles out of it. I cut dana tubes off correct length for axles. had 2 tubes made at machine shop cost $40.00 because both axle tubes were same size. You can buy a set of new axle tube ends that should work perfect? I was just doing this as cheap as poss. and I bought a new set of spring perches easier than trying to cut old ones off. anyway when i was done it is about a 1/2 narrower than the factory 8 3/4. I will post some pics later tonight when I get home from work.  less than $100.00 in my Dana.

[defiance]

I assume, then, that you found a Dana with the gears you wanted, the carrier you wanted, and didn't replace any clutches or bearings anywhere (including the 8-3/4 axle bearings)?

How did you align the tube ends?  just visually aligning?

If all that is true, it would work, and that would definitely be the least expensive way to go about it, no doubt...

I just personally would want to be replacing all the bearings while everything was apart anyway, and I don't trust myself to visually align the ends



Notes on the alignment jig, btw - got the aluminum bar in Friday, and built the circles today in about 15 minutes!   Haven't tested it in the housing yet (the housing is at my dad's shop about 80 miles away; I'll actually go there when the parts are all here - right now still waiting on axles), but it initially looks like it should work perfectly

Basically, just a 1" aluminum bar (you should be able to get one dirt cheap from a local machine shop, but if not, you can get one for less than $20 online from the source I listed above), with three discs.  To make the discs, you need:

-5/32" drill bit (a 1/8" will work too, but with it you have to 'loosen' the hole)
-1" hole saw bit
-router with 1/4" cutting bit
-circle jig

The way the jig works is, you drill a hole in the center of the piece you want to circle cut.  Then, put the pin in the hole that correlates to the diameter of the hole.  It's important to note that the sizing is for the diameter of the cutouts, NOT the circles like we want - Theoretically, you'd add 1/2" to them to get inside measurement for the circle diameter.  I've found that it's actually more like 9/16".  So, to make a 2" circle, you'd put the pin in the 2-9/16" hole.  Then slide the wood on the pin, and rotate it to cut the wood.  I hope I don't have to point out that you must be extremely careful of the router, it'll tear you up QUICK if you get careless.

Anyway, I put together the jig in 15 minutes.  I didn't get any in-progress pics (camera battery died as I was getting started ) but I did get some completion shots, as well as pics of the setup and tools.

Also, another thing I missed out on pics of is the powr-lok - I rebuilt it today.  Man, that's a BREEZE!   Literally just take it apart, take out the new parts, soak the discs in the included fluid, and put it back together. 

[sunroofsuperbird]

Yes the axles were same spline. I cut the tubes clamped in band saw so alignment should be good. I have measured many times and I think its good. The Bearing I have not replaced yet but will be soon. the Gear is great I think 331 and I will be installing a posi unit and new bearings. heres some pics of it. 1 out when I built it you can see tubes I had made on ends. then under car. and last pic in car with wheels not greatest pics? sorry.

[defiance]

Your 8-3/4 axles - were they the same length, or about 1-3/8" different?

[defiance]

Well, finally got time to do the work this weekend.  The jig turned out Ok - the wood parts I was worried about turned out perfect, but the bar was too thin - 1" aluminum just won't cut it.  I'd recommed about 1.5" steel.  the Alum flexed like mad.  Maybe 1" steel would work, but I don't know.  ANyway, though, by turning the axle vertical I was able to get it into a good position, then I clamped and welded.  Checked it with a square later and it was perfect

Anyway, for the carrier I ended up having to get one more tool:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRGDE/ref=nosim/?tag=nextag-auto-20&creative=380333&creativeASIN=B0002SRGDE&linkCode=asn

And even with that I had to modify it - took a grinder to the 'claws' to get them a little deeper.  As it came out of the box, the claws wouldn't get under the core of the bearing, so it was going to rip the bearing apart instead of pulling it off.

Anyway, my camera got lost (great timing), so I didn't get many pics of the process, but I'll pull some of it back apart and get some more. 

Also, having done it now, I'm convinced that the case spreader simply isn't necessary.  I was able to get the Dana recommended .015" (well, .014", anyway) preload without any trouble.  I just set it up with 0 preload so I could remove/replace/remove/replace (etc) until the backlash was correct, then just added .007" of shims to each side.  Took about 15 minutes to get it in that last time, but I didn't have to hammer on it hard or anything.  To me personally, I'd rather just have to be patient for 15 minutes than spend $200 on a tool to save me that 15 minutes!

Anyway, I'll write everything up by the end of the week.  In short, though, as far as I can tell, there are basically 5 ways to do it-

1- Absolute minimal - Just cut the axles even, keep whatever center chunk is in it, replace nothing, use 8-3/4 axles and housing ends.  Requires an 8-3/4" to sacrifice, and leaves yoke 1-3/8" off center.  Also, you're limited to whatever limited slip, gear range, and spline count you can find.

2- minimal, but with correct offset - pretty much like above, but buy new axles & housings.  Still leaves the center untouched, so you're limited to whatever limited slip, gear range, and spline count you can find, but center is lined with center of car.

3- add carrier change - if you find the gear you want, but it's not limited slip, or you're set on powr-lok and can't find one, change the carrier

4- add gear change - if you can't find the gear ration you want, but you found a powr-lok or are ok with trac-lok

5- complete rebuild - new carrier, new gear ratio, new axles, the whole enchilada.

I'm going to go through and write seperate details for each, though - how I did that before ... well, it kinda stunk having to skip between parts like that