OK...New Stoker is NOT getting the 906 heads...but which brand for new heads?

[Mfr426]

That pretty much says it. I talked with my engine builder and he said that I should NOT put the money into the 906 head that I have and get new aluminum ones to match my new stroker 512 kit. That is pretty much what most said on this forum as well. So, some how I have to figure out how to pay for all of this but that's a different story.

My REAL question is...who has the best heads? This is a 68 440 and will be for street use and not racing. I would like it to have torque to fry them off as needed but I want road manners and cool temps. I know this is also about the cam but I was told to decide on the heads first then we'll decide on the cam.

OK Neil, I know you have good advice do you have any suggestions here? I'd certainly appreciate any comments or feedback with product and vendors.

Thanks all. Thank Spring!

[firefighter3931]

Edelbrock RPM's ! 


Ron

[is_it_EVER_done?]

Edelbrock RPM's !
Ron

I couldn't agree more! for the use you propose, any other choice would be a step backwards regardless of cost. The RPM's are good for close to a 50 HP gain over stock, more torque across the RPM range, save about 50 LBS of weight off the front end, and don't require any hard (or impossible) to fit intakes, exhausts, rocker assembly's, valve covers or external oiling systems. They come with large valves, darn good springs/retainers/locks, hardend valve seats, Plus they give you a bit more resistance to pre-ignition/detonation.

IMHO they are the best invention ever produced for Mopars since the cars were new! There are better (and far more expensive) choices for a full race car, but for street and bracket use they are un-equalled. Plus if you ever decide to "go faster", they respond amazingly well to porting, and can easily achieve 10's in a heavy B-body.

I've used most every wedge head ever offered (except Bulldogs, predators, and Victors), at some time or other. Each has their place, but for street performance, you can't beat the RPM's.

I would recommend http://www.moderncylinderhead.com/, He can supply checked/corrected Heads for about what the normal purchase price of OOTB heads cost, plus if you really want more power, his CNC'd RPM's flow 326 CFM at .600, and have similar increases at low lifts so as not to give up anything for the increased flow/power as far as torque and velocity goes. Just as important as all that is that his work is cheap but better than the expensive options. The beauty is that even if you can't afford his CNC'd versions right now, he can/will CNC yours at a later date if you want. Something most head porters won't do to used heads. At least talk to him befor you buy them from someplace else.

The next best option would be the Indy EZ's. They may be capable of more when ported, but they cost much more, and are not as good in OOTB form.

[67_Dodge_Charger]

I am going with the Edelbrock RPMs as well with my 496 stroker.  Just the labor for porting, 3 angle valve grind and other nice stuff would start around $575 per head.  Then you have to decide which rockers you want. 

Edelbrock RPMs are going for $1375, that is with 2.14 intake and 1.81 exhaust valves plus spring that can handle 600 lift.  These heads are great right out of the box.  My machinist said "guys are porting these heads and getting upwards of 700 HP."  Right out of the box you could easily be in the 550 HP range. 

Block work, stroker kit, heads, rockers, cam , lifters, push rods, double roller timing gear and chain, intake and carb, ignition system, water pump, high volume oil pump, headers and of course radiator.  Just this work will  put you in the $4000 range.  Then you have tranny and external cooler, driveline and rear axle, and good tires. 

Robert

[Mfr426]

WOW!!! Sounds like the "Eddy" heads are the ticket? I just dropped $1715 for the stroker kit, new pistons, rings, rods, windage tray etc. This could be the straw that puts the pregnant wife over the edge.   

Hey 67, that $1,375.00 is for the pair I hope??? 

[67_Dodge_Charger]

Yeah that is $1375 for a pair.  I checked Summit and Jegs for their pricing.  You could get a bare set for $1150ish.

The engine build is expensive but you will not have to go back and replace stuff for more HP.

good luck
Robert

[Mfr426]

Thanks Robert! Now, it's time to really sell my ass off at work!!!

[Lifsgrt]

Hey, check into the Edelbrock Victor heads for the same money.  They are reported to make about 50-60 hp more than the RPM heads, and work great with the stroker.  Understand they require a different intake manifold that may required more underhood space than you have without adding a hood scoop.  Also, these heads require offset rocker arms due to port runner locations, and possibly a valley block off plate.  I believe intake manifold selection will be limited for a while.
I have a set of RPMs on a 440 and they work much, much better than the iron heads.  I still use a set of forged, domed pistons (flat tops work significantly better); this engine makes much more hp than it ever has, and still has around 11:1 compression ratio, and runs without detonation on pump premium.  Ensure your block is decked if necessary to give you zero deck height with your stroker kit installed.  Hope this helps.

[#s Matching]

Is there any additional prep required, or recommended for the preassembled Edelbrock RPM heads, excluding porting if desired?

[firefighter3931]

Is there any additional prep required, or recommended for the preassembled Edelbrock RPM heads, excluding porting if desired?

The guides should be checked for sizing. This is not isolated specificly to the Edelbrock heads....same deal for Indy, Brodix as well. A good competiton valvejob and 30* backcut will increase flow 10 cfm across the board....well worth doing for the minimal cost, inmo. 



Ron

[Chryco Psycho]

The eddy RPMs heads are priced  the way they are so it is cheaper to buy them than fix iron heads, I still buck the trend though & figure if you are going to spend for alum heads buy a Good alum head , I have yet to prove a marginal HP increase with rpms for what reason I am not sure , either the porting on the iron heads is that good or my combos don`t like eddys ...whatever , I have had problems with eddys in the past but everyone else likes them , the victor heads I have been working with have been a royal pain so far too

[is_it_EVER_done?]

CHRYCO:  The RPM's are the most tested/proven head in the Mopar world. There has never even been a hint at any downside, and countless magazine and real world builds have shown them to be excellent performers, with amazing power gains.

I have no doubt that you are capable of porting and rebuilding stock heads to achieve similar results, so that you haven't seen an improvement with OOTB E-heads, but I too have been around the block a few times in the Mopar world, and I can say from experience that the time, money, and countless hours of work that is necessary to bring a set of 906's to anywhere near the performance/quality level of the E-heads, dwarfs the cost of the E's!

The very fact that you haven't seen (in your experience) a power increase by switching to E's is proof of how good they are. After all, if an OOTB set of E's will perform as well as a totally reworked set of 906's is an amazing tribute to just how well the E's are designed.

When you consider the cost of setting up a set of 906's (or other stock heads) with new valve seats to accommodate larger valves, new "large" valves, cutting the valve spring pockets  and milling the guide bosses to accommodate high lifts, 40+ hours of porting (not to mention the couple hundred + dollar investment in various carbide cutters, different sizes and quantities of sandpaper rolls, etc.), new springs/locks/retainers, new guide mounted valve seals, Machining costs to install valve seats - valve seals - guides - spring pockets - multi angle valve job - and milling them to closed chambers w/additional milling of the intake surface for manifold fitment. You will have well over a couple Thousand dollars invested, and that's with the porting/polishing/Assembly time figured at ZERO cost (as well as the tools necessary to achieve all this). I KNOW because this was the only option not all that long ago!

Durability? Not even measurable! Iron heads taken to the max will crack - PERIOD!  They may last a couple of years, but they are doomed from the start. The E-heads should last nearly forever, plus they are easy to fix if a problem is encountered.

You stated "buy a good aluminum head". I'm interested in what you consider a good aluminum head if the E-heads aren't? I'm not trying to be challenging, but it's obvious that your and my opinions on the E's are about as far opposite as is possible, and would like to know what your suggestion to the original post's question would be?

[jerry]

if your engine builder changed your mind on using the 906 heads then why don't you ask him what he would use. his opinion will be the same as you get here .everyone has a different reason why they use what they do. i am sure that if you add all the opinions you have here you will get the E heads which is what i did with the same type engine and never looked back.rpm heads on a good street engine is about as good as it gets .alot of good advice comes from these guys on here on engine builds.

[Mfr426]

Thanks everyone for the comments. I talked with my machinist today and he got the kit and said that it is VERY impressive. I had 440 balance the motor and he commented that everything was done the right way. I then suggested main cap studs which I quickly ordered from 440. He is going to line bore it next week.

I am 99% convinced that the Eddy heads are the way to go. I dont have any interest in fooling with the 906's that I have and the price seems reasonable for the new ones. My next job is to find the right cam for the motor. He will set up the short block and dial in the cam and I'll take the heads from there. My next post will be the cam recommendations.

I have to say that with the exception of many busy signals 440 Source has proven to be excellent to work with. They have so far done everything that they said they would do and according to my machanist the kit looks top quality.