Synthetic Motor oil has anyone used it an REALLY noticed an improvement?

[AKcharger]

I was considering switching to synthetic oil and was wondering if it was worth the extra cost? Has anyone noted improved fuel economy/power? Any testimonials welcome

Thanks

AK

[RD]

i dont know if you are talking about chargers or any cars, but I switched it over in the 98 neon.  Not so much for better fuel mileage as better protection and less wear on internal components.  Car is getting up there in mileage and I need running tip top as long as possible.  Mobil 1 Synthetic 5-30W is what I use.  Cost alot, but its the best on the market from what I hear.  I have not done a comparison against other oils.

[Silver R/T]

esp in winter, take a lil bit of synthetic and conventional and put both in freezer over night, conventional will freeze and synthetic wont.

[TruckDriver]

esp in winter, take a lil bit of synthetic and conventional and put both in freezer over night, conventional will freeze and synthetic wont.

[Charger_Fan]

I haven't noticed any mileage improvement...I didn't really start using it for mileage anyway. But I can attest that my little 91 Exploder is currently at 243,000 miles on it's original engine & has never been apart.

I have gone through 3 radiators though, it would be nice if they made synthetic antifreeze.

[zstalker]

Synthetic oil is primarily for better lubrication and proteciton of engine parts...you're not going to notice more power or better fuel economy right away.  It protects so well, in fact that it's recommended NOT to use it when you're breaking in a new motor, just use conventional so the parts can wear slightly to eachother.   The way you'll notice a difference is if, at 200,000 miles of synthetic useage, you tear down the motor, you'll notice much less wear and damage to the friction parts (bearings, cam lobes, pistons/bores) than if you had been using conventional oil the whole time.  For a "disposable" car (little beater get-around) don't worry about it...jus use conventional.  For something that's a real investment (anything over $60,000 or so, or old muscle) it's not a bad idea to protect it as well as you can from the get-go.
On another hand, for a car like RD's Neon, if it's been using conventional its whoile life, you're probably better off using a high-milage oil...they've got special additives that condition the seals and gaskets to help them stay in better shape longer.
~Erik~

[bull]

I just started using Valvoline Syn Power at my last oil change and I can't say I've noticed any major improvement. I guess I'm just taking everyone's word for it that synthetic oil is better than regular oil. I doubt they're lying to me.

[89MOPAR]

 I would definitely use it in Alaska. I lived in upstate NY and one winter the oil in my early Bronco had the consistency of a "slushie" . After that I switched to synthetic, Mobil One.   I have seen a slight reduction in running temps after switching to synthetic, but only on two cars out of many.  To me , it's worth the extra $$.

[Badbob]

1/10 of a second in the 1/4 mile in my Dodge. I use Amsoil in my aircooled Harley Road King.

[Chryco Psycho]

yeah my friigin truck starts at -40 with it & gets oil pressure within 15 minutes too

[tecmopar]

Heres what we did on a lazy Sunday when the shop was closed and I wanted to see for myself if there really is a difference. I strapped my Bullitt edition Mustang to the dyno and made 2 runs, we then changed the oil and put in Mobil-1 5W-20. It picked up almost 6 HP which made us both sceptical. Right away, I thought ahhh, must be air temp., humidity, something atmospheric. So we changed back to the conventional oil and it went back down to the original # so we changed back again to the Synthtic and it went right up again to the same 6 HP gain so I guess I proved it to myself the for about $17.00 its well worth the 5 or so HP gain AND it does protect the motor much better then conventional stuff. It does seem like a waste of time and dyno use but what the hell, I had nothing better to do that day and results really suprised us, good luck.

[8WHEELER]

So are we saying if you have only run conventional oil and you have over 100k on your
engine your best choice is to run the high mileage oil like Castrol like I have been doing
on a few of my tired gas engines.

Dan

[Silver R/T]

yes exactly, you might develop leak somewhere on high mileage car as synthetic is more thin

[8WHEELER]

Good I have been doing things right on my 100k plus cars and trucks. Everybody has been
telling me evan taday to run the new Synthetic in everything. But maybe I should run it in
my red 68 with the high comp and I would say about 50k on the rebiuld, but then again I
have only run 10w40 Castrol in it since I put it together umm a long long time ago.

Dan

[ChargerSG]

If you run on regular 10/40 for 35 years and then swap to synthetic you can get some problem(if its not racing oil), dont know if synthetic here is diffrent from what you have but if you change you can get leaks and its start sometimes to hear noice in the motor, soo here you have to switsh to Mineraloil instead. I recken there is as much opitions in oil as there are cars, and there is gonna be some people who is gonna start going on this

[AKcharger]

Good feedback and interesting dyno info there tec. Next question, with synthetic is the recommended oil change time still 3000 miles or does it go up?

[Badbob]

The oil change interval goes up to 5k minimum, some say 10k. It's best benefit is it's ability to protect during temperature extremes. You can buy Amsoil for $5.25 a quart as a preferred customer. Purolator Pure One oil filters are the best.

[Badbob]

An article on filter performance.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html

[cudaken]

 When got 69 Charger the old big block had 125,000 miles on it, vales where burnt and had the death rattles. Not bearing sound's but just knew it was tired. Did a fresh set of heads, some slick 50 and Mobile 1. Rattels went away and still ran great when I yanked it with 206,000 miles on it.

I was also burning oil to the toon of a quart every 450 to 500 miles. Used Restore in the engine, oil use's went down quart every 1600 miles.

My Dad taught me "You cannot pours ring's from a can". Well that was not ture in this case.

OH, about the leak's meth. Mine still not leak when we pulled her. In fact it is the only Mopar I ever owned that did not leak.


                                          Cuda Ken

[KMPX2]

I just bought some for the race car I will post what happens. I will make a few passes with new oil then switch over to see what happens.

[Charger Aficionado]

  Re: Prolong   I bought a crippled 440 Ramcharger like 5yrs ago, and it needed to have the engine re-built.  It was drivable so I drove it home, and on the way it started smoking bad, and when I looked the exhaust manifolds were "cherry red".  I poured in some Prolong and it immedietley COOLED down, stopped smoking etc.  I had the large jug of RV formula, but only used half.  It was so expensive I didn't use it at first, but after WATCHING the results first hand I was AMAZED.

[Telvis]

How many miles should you put on a new car before going to synthetic?

[Badbob]

o miles, go to synthetic, won't affect breakin that's an old wives tale. Many high end cars and motorcycles are delivered from the factory with synthetic oil. Resists thermal breakdown far better than dino crude.

[Slowpoke]

I switched to Royal Purple in my daily driver Wrangler. It took a while to show up but after about 6 mounths i went from 17 mpg to
20 mpg. The oil is expensive but the milage increase is worth it to me.
I also run Mobile 1 in the charger but since the brakes are still bad cant tell if it has made a diffrence. 

[yellowcuda]

yeah my friigin truck starts at -40 with it & gets oil pressure within 15 minutes too

Oh my God.... -40 !!!!   You need to move!