727 Transmission Identification

[WH23G3G]

I've ordered a rebuilt 727 transmission for my 73,  but I wanted to see if I could identify my old transmission first. It's non original as mine was a 318 car. I wrote down all the numbers I could find on my old transmission and looked over the 727 transmission handbook to see if it gave any details about identifying what it came out of or what year. I found the following numbers on each side at the top of the bellhousing; 3-103, A-727-B on the bottom left side of the bellhousing, PK3640818 4260 8610 above the transmission pan rail, and 73 above twelve boxes with the first two containing 3 dots along with 3743103 - 3 underneath the series of boxes. According to the 727 transmission handbook the PK3640818 4260 8610 identifies the 10,000 day calendar day it was manufactured. It was complicating the way they described it but I came up with Tuesday, March 27, 1973. Is that correct? How do you determine what vehicle it came out of if you can even do that? It said in the 727 transmission handbook there should be a pad above the transmission pan with the serial number off of whatever car starting after 1969. But I didn't see any kinda raised ID pad on this transmission. Does anyone know what the other numbers mean?

[John_Kunkel]

That transmission is from a '73 truck with a 400 engine. Does it have a short tailhousing?

The dots in the first two boxes along with the 73 denotes that the case was cast in February 1973 which coincides with the March 27 build date.

The raised pad is on the passenger side bellhousng.

[WH23G3G]

Well it seemed to have the same length tailshaft as the rebuilt unit I ordered. The length was about 35" from front to back. I guess that would coincide with the 400 engine that was in it, it was a 76 cast crank block from a truck. I wouldn't have thought a 727 from a truck would bolt into a Charger. I remember that the motor crushed the oil dipstick tube as it ran over the mount when I first got the car, it was sandwhiched between the block and the mounts. But I believe the K-frame was original as the nylon straps were showing on the body mounts, and there was no sway bar brackets welded. Hopefully I took care of that problem now when I swapped in a sway bar equipped K-frame from what I was told was a big block Charger. I'd hate to drop everything in and have it squash my new dipstick tube and not be able to check the oil again. I'll have to get the numbers off the rebuilt transmission I got, it's a 75 I can see already, but not sure if it was a truck or car. I have no idea what the 8.75 rear end came out of, I haven't made it that far back in my project yet. Whoever did all of it, got the powe bulge hood off a 73 Charger, because the emission decal is still perfectly legible.

[John_Kunkel]

The reason I asked is because the 3640818 trans started life as a short tailhousing unit; it's not unusual to find one refit with a standard length housing for installation in a passenger car.

[WH23G3G]

I checked the old transmission again today and saw the pad where the VIN code should be, but it was blank. It's doesn't look like it had been rubbed away either, it looks like there was never anything they, but it was exactly like in the photo, a raised pad on the front passenger side of the bellhousing.

[tricky lugnuts]

Anybody have any idea how or where to decode the #'s on a 727? I'm hoping mine's for a big block and that it will fit in a 71 Charger. Only #'s I can see on the casing are: PK3681866. Make sense to anyone?

[John_Kunkel]

No stampings on the VIN pad usually means it's a replacement (parts room) transmission.

PK3681866 is from a '74 C body with a 440 standard performance.

[squeakfinder]

These are a couple of 727's I have.

           8A207133

           9C300268

Both out of 68 Cnargers. But I don't know if there originals.

[John_Kunkel]

8A207133     9C300268

These are partial VIN's, the first is from a '68 car built at the Lynch Road plant and the second is from a '69 car built at the Jefferson plant.

The transmission part number will be found stamped in the pan rail on the drivers side.

[squeakfinder]

Thanks John,

I've got one more if you don't mind.

Number on driver side:  PK3410669L  5862

Number on passenger side: OC256414

Big number on bellhousing: 17610

Thanks Larry.

[John_Kunkel]

PK3410669L is from a '70 C body with a 440.

OC256414 is the partial VIN of a '70 car built at the Jefferson plant.

[squeakfinder]

Thanks John,

This way I know to get the rebuild kit for 70 and older transmissions.

[hatebur2001]

I have a 69 charger with a 318, but the transmission is a Small Block 727. I found this on the pan rail:

PK4412003 9454 4252

I am attempting rebuild it, but I don't know what year or car it was installed in.

Any way to at least obtain the year?

Thanks
Mike

[RD]

I have a 69 charger with a 318, but the transmission is a Small Block 727. I found this on the pan rail:

PK4412003 9454 4252

I am attempting rebuild it, but I don't know what year or car it was installed in.

Any way to at least obtain the year?

Thanks
Mike

its 1986 or 1987 transmission, most likely out of a truck.

[grdprx]

I'm starting to dig in to my transmission, I'd appreciate your knowledge on mine if you don't mind.

The number I got off the housing is 3410433-6

Along the pan was PK3621056 4185 7035

Off the Tail I found this:

               76   2
4028191 05305

Hoping this will work for my car, 68 charger w/440

Thanks much!

[John_Kunkel]

The third digit is wrong, 3621056 is probably 3681056 from a '73 standard performance 440. 4185 is the build date January 11, 1973.

The 4028191 casting number on the tail is from a '76 or '77 transmission, not unusual to find a mix of parts in a 35 year old trans. It will fit your '69 Charger.

[grdprx]

Great!  Thanks a lot for all the info!

[Charger74SE]

I have a complete list of Part Numbers and year identification for A904 and 727 trans from 1965 to 1986 except for the tailshaft numbers in PDF format if anyone wants a copy.  Will have to send it to your email address because the file is 986kb. To large to upload here.

Mike

[John_Kunkel]

The same PDF file is available here:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf

[mopar0166]

any one know 3410176-9 ?   anyone  know anything about this trans, its not on the list?  suppose to be a bb 727

[RD]

the 341 is good, your 0176-9 is a bad interpretation... get another look at it.

[Lennard]

Oke guys, i realize that this is an old thread but i found it thru the search option and maybe one of you can help me identify the TF 727 that i just pulled from my '69 Charger.
These are the numbers i found on it so far...

on top of bellhousing left and right: 261-8

on drivers side casted: 2801261 DP      KCP
                                            CD

on drivers side oilpan rail stamped: PK2801543J    2233   1564

Thanks in advance, Lennard

[John_Kunkel]

PK2801543J    2233   1564

2801543 is a 727 from a '67 cop car with a 383-4.

2233 is the build date September 8, 1967

1564 is the sequence number, the 1564th built that day.

[Lennard]

Thank you very much John, now i know that this tranny is not going back in after the resto.
I will have to find myself a '69 TF 727.

[Lennard]

I have another 727 identification question, i bought one today and would like to know what it came out of.
The numbers on the oil pan rail are H2538333  2722614

Thanks in advance, Lennard

[RD]

I have another 727 identification question, i bought one today and would like to know what it came out of.
The numbers on the oil pan rail are H2538333  2722614

Thanks in advance, Lennard

'66 dodge/plymouth 318

[Lennard]

Thanks RD, so it is a 727 for a small block. The seller told me it was for a big block.
I have no use for it...  

[RD]

Thanks RD, so it is a 727 for a small block. The seller told me it was for a big block.
I have no use for it... 

most likely a poly 318

[Lennard]

Thanks, i will do a search to find out what a poly engine is.

[RD]

Thanks, i will do a search to find out what a poly engine is.

polyspherical 318 engine.  also known as "semi-hemi" due to the polyspherical design of the combustion chamber.

[Lennard]

I see, thanks again.

[floyds68]

Well its been a while since ive been on the forum but im back with some tranny questions for the experts.  The tranny in my 68 started bleeding very bad out the front of the bell housing after doing donuts in a huge dirt parking lot (so fun and totally worth it, especially because of the excitement on my son and daughters face) anyway.  The numbers off that tranny are:

3515847      3589    5829

...the tranny came with the motor I rebuiltits a 71' BB thats all i really know, i replaced a filter and have crossed my fingers for 6 years as Ive pounded on it.  I bought a rebuilt tranny to put in for $350, seemed like a good deal but Its a small block tranny with numbers:

PK3496942    3785    3695

...the tail was exchanged when it was rebuilt so it is the same length as my BB tranny.  Lesson learned.  Ive never rebuilt one but im pretty good with tools and im thinking about rebuilding my BB tranny.  Can I swap out the guts? should I just rebuild my BB tranny with a rebuild kit?  Both tranny's are on the floor of my garage and Im just not sure of the best way forward.  Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated.  Thanks

Floyd (nice to be back on the forum, cant believe i remembered my password)

[RD]

The numbers off that tranny are:

3515847      3589    5829

...the tranny came with the motor I rebuiltits a 71' BB thats all i really know, i replaced a filter and have crossed my fingers for 6 years as Ive pounded on it.

71 BB trans, came behind a 440 HP motor

I bought a rebuilt tranny to put in for $350, seemed like a good deal but Its a small block tranny with numbers:

PK3496942    3785    3695

...the tail was exchanged when it was rebuilt so it is the same length as my BB tranny.  Lesson learned.

came behind a 71 318 truck, short extension (nothing glamorous).

Ive never rebuilt one but im pretty good with tools and im thinking about rebuilding my BB tranny.  Can I swap out the guts? should I just rebuild my BB tranny with a rebuild kit?  Both tranny's are on the floor of my garage and Im just not sure of the best way forward.  Any advice or recommendations would be appreciated.  Thanks

Floyd (nice to be back on the forum, cant believe i remembered my password)

yes you can swap out the guts, but if there is nothing wrong with your transmission other than maybe a bad front pump seal or a crack in your converter.. then why would you?  did your troubled transmission still go in every gear without any vibrations or noises? does your front pump seal have visual damage?

[floyds68]

It still went into every gear, I cant see any damage to front seal, ill have to check it a little closer,  It was bleedin bad not drippin.  I thought of replacing it all because i dont want to have to pull it again in 3-6 months for a different problem.  I dont really know the best option,  If its a simple as replacing the front seal, ill do it.  Is there any other easy replacements I should make while its out?  I was considering a shift kit but ive never put one in and was unsure of how difficult it would be.  Thanks.

[floyds68]

Here is the culprit I think.  Does anyone know what would cause this?  It is the bearing that separates the torque converter shaft form the front oil pump shaft, i think.  Im guessing oil could have been passing through the bearing?  the torque converter shaft shows some signs of wear but without a micrometer im not sure how bad.  Any suggestions? 

[RD]

Here is the culprit I think.  Does anyone know what would cause this?  It is the bearing that separates the torque converter shaft form the front oil pump shaft, i think.  Im guessing oil could have been passing through the bearing?  the torque converter shaft shows some signs of wear but without a micrometer im not sure how bad.  Any suggestions?  

those front pump bushings can take a beating.  john kunkel may chime in, as i am sure he has seen more of this than i have, but i have seen these bushings wear with engines that had vibration issues.

in your case, the burnout (though it may not have been engine vibration related) was the proverbial straw that broke the camels back.

easy fix though.  you got another bushing right?

[floyds68]

The part numbers are the same on the pump housings, which contain the bushing.  So im just gonna swap those out.  I must admit, even though I havnt done much its a new adventure getting into the transmission, ive only dropped the pan to change a filter in the past but im eager to take one of these all apart and maybe better understand how they work.  Any tips on alignment when putting the front plates (not sure what they are called) back on?  Maybe you or John K. can give my plan a sanity check.  Still debating on the shift kit or other easy mods to help the tranny stay alive while i beat on it for the next few years, cause im gonna keep gettin sideways, and im gonna do more donuts.  (in a controlled environment of course)  Ive learned that as you get older you can still do stupid things, you just have to be smart and safe about it.  Thanks.

Floyd

[RD]

The part numbers are the same on the pump housings, which contain the bushing.  So im just gonna swap those out.  I must admit, even though I havnt done much its a new adventure getting into the transmission, ive only dropped the pan to change a filter in the past but im eager to take one of these all apart and maybe better understand how they work.  Any tips on alignment when putting the front plates (not sure what they are called) back on?  Maybe you or John K. can give my plan a sanity check.  Still debating on the shift kit or other easy mods to help the tranny stay alive while i beat on it for the next few years, cause im gonna keep gettin sideways, and im gonna do more donuts.  (in a controlled environment of course)  Ive learned that as you get older you can still do stupid things, you just have to be smart and safe about it.  Thanks.

Floyd

BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THE BELOW.... MEASURE THE HEIGHT AND WIDTH OF YOUR REACTION SHAFT SUPPORT.  THEY LOOK TO BE DIFFERENT, IF SO, THEN YOU CANNOT SWAP THE FRONT PUMPS.

if you say plates = the round circular steel objects on your table, then those are the front pumps.  they only go on one way.  make sure you lube up the o-ring (preferably you get a new one) that goes around the pump, and have a new pump to housing gasket emplaced.  ( this is a great time to put on a new front pump seal )
1. slowly slide the pump down onto the housing getting the bolt holes as close as possible.  if you are a little off, use a rubber mallet and tap one of the pump ribs either left or right to line it up.  

2. put in your front pump bolts (with new washers) making sure to get each threaded as much as possible with your fingers.  

3. Then, using a star pattern, tighten down each bolt until the pump is firmly set on the housing.  then torque down to 175 inch/lbs.

IMPORTANT:

are you just going to swap out the pumps?  if so... you have to adjust your input shaft endplay due to each transmission having selective thrust washers.  The #1 thrust washer from your new transmission may be a different width.  "measure" each thrust washer's width.  if they are the same, you are golden, if not.... then make sure you take off your old #1 thrust washer and put it on the new reaction shaft support.  your endplay tolerance is to be from .034 to .084 inch

[floyds68]

WOW, I love the diagram.  Any chance you have a doc that gives a name to all the referenced parts?  If not, no biggie, mainly curiosity.  I have a thick owners maintenance manual but not nearly as detailed. The trust washer is a carbon type material, right?  Are the measurements so precise that I will need a micrometer, or will a standard tape measure do, maybe a spark plug gapper tool will work.  Ive taken the pans off and im starting to disassemble the valve body, so far they are the same,  Im thinking about using some of the springs from the be-build and other parts that seem worn out.  Thanks again for the wisdom.  Im an constantly impressed by the wealth of knowledge and the willingness to share expertise with strangers.  You are all some good people!

[bobfist]

How to know if the 727 are at HD edition???
10 return springs?

[RD]

WOW, I love the diagram.  Any chance you have a doc that gives a name to all the referenced parts?

nope, just my chassis manual and other 727 books.  i attached a pic of the valve body just in case you get lost.

The trust washer is a carbon type material, right?  Are the measurements so precise that I will need a micrometer, or will a standard tape measure do, maybe a spark plug gapper tool will work.

i use a micrometer... we are talking hundredths and thousandths of an inch here, and this is just the thrust washer i am referring to.  more importantly, you need to measure the diameter of your reaction shaft support.  i think those are different from viewing the pictures.  if the 318 trans is smaller than the 440 trans, you CANNOT swap the two.   you will need to replace the front pump bushing in your 71 440 pump assembly.

Ive taken the pans off and im starting to disassemble the valve body, so far they are the same,  Im thinking about using some of the springs from the be-build and other parts that seem worn out.  Thanks again for the wisdom.  Im an constantly impressed by the wealth of knowledge and the willingness to share expertise with strangers.  You are all some good people!

no problem, do not hesitate to ask any questions.  if i dont know the answer, i am sure many will.