Painless Wiring

[terrible one]

Hey guys, I was thinking about wiring for my car...

I've got all of the wiring including the engine bay wiring, dash harness, the stuff that goes to the rear tail lights, console, etc. Everything. However, it looks really rough as is expected.

I've heard of some people wiring their whole car with a Painless wiring kit, and I was wondering if that would be my best bet. I know that it would be a lot cheaper, and I don't give a damn about correctness, etc. However, I don't have much wiring experience aside from wiring car stereos and amps and such.

Also, I was planning on using aftermarket gauges in my car, and don't know how that would work with the stock dash wiring harness?

So I mean to ask what you guys think about wiring my car with a Painless kit. I don't mean to sound conceited or anything, but I'm really good at learning stuff and I know that this forum would be a great help to me. Do you guys think that I could tackle this? How hard would it be to do? Could I wire all of the engine bay stuff along with the underdash/in cab stuff, or would I want to just get a repro harness for that?

I know this post is basically a bunch of questions, but I'm very unknowledgeable about this stuff and am really needing to spend as little as I can. I've got a lot more time than money. Any information/suggestion is appreciated!

[Chryco Psycho]

the painless kit is OK , it will replace everything & it is all GM based fro circuits & colors etc , it will not have a bulkhead plug so you will have to close that in all the wires are clearly marked where they go to & from
Really I am not a fan but they do work

[Rolling_Thunder]

you can use a painless harness and reuse all your factory style connectors...     including the bulkhead connector...     I used the painless kit and thought it was a breeze...    rewired my whole can in about 2 days...    granted its not correct - but it works....      i didnt trust my 40 year old wiring

[Shakey]

you can use a painless harness and reuse all your factory style connectors...     including the bulkhead connector...     I used the painless kit and thought it was a breeze...    rewired my whole can in about 2 days...    granted its not correct - but it works....      i didnt trust my 40 year old wiring

Doesn't sound too painless to me.  Reuse factory connectors, as in splice them in?  Two days?

I realize the M&H harnesses that YO sells are very expensive, but from what I have seen and heard, well worth it.

I am sure there are numerous threads on wiring on this site if you want answers from the past.

No offense Rolling Thunder, just my $0.02.

[70 Charger RT]

I installed a "It's a Snap" harness (similar to EZ Wire) in my 70 and it was a piece of cake.  It took me a week ++ however.  I drilled wire sized holes straight through my old bulkhead connector and fed the new wires through it so there was no weak connectors at the bulkhead.  (especially the heavy current conductors to the fuse box).  I mounted the new fuse box in the original fuse box location in the glove compartment.  I would recommend it.  It does away with the fusible links.

[Rolling_Thunder]

you can use a painless harness and reuse all your factory style connectors...     including the bulkhead connector...     I used the painless kit and thought it was a breeze...    rewired my whole can in about 2 days...    granted its not correct - but it works....      i didnt trust my 40 year old wiring

Doesn't sound too painless to me.  Reuse factory connectors, as in splice them in?  Two days?

I realize the M&H harnesses that YO sells are very expensive, but from what I have seen and heard, well worth it.

I am sure there are numerous threads on wiring on this site if you want answers from the past.

No offense Rolling Thunder, just my $0.02.

No offense intended...     I have used the M&H harnesses in many of the cars at the shop and I'm not really impressed...  yes its a good product and for factory correct guys it is great - however - sometimes i find myself adding, cutting, splicing anyway to make the harness fit the car...    also...    sometimes the harnesses are not what I call "complete" - prefect example is the neutral safety harness on a B-body - it does not come with the new wiper harness....    to me - im not going to pay 1000+ for new wiring harnesses and still have to make, cut, solder, crimp, splice...      ain't gonna happen...       

Also - I ordered EVERY harness for a 1970 Charger R/T...    apparently all but the engine harness is Backordered...    first I was told until Jan 6, 2007  (Ordered late Nov)  - still not in -  now I call to check and they are "unknown" as to when they will be...      all I know is there are 16 other people out there waiting for harnesses...    M&H are overpriced and seem a bit lazy to me...   

as yo your questions...    yes - I used the factory moulded connectors be removing the old wiring from them - crimping and soldering new male and/or females onto the new painless wiring then re-inserting them into the factory moulded connector...    yes it only took me two days - collectively about 16 hours - I have less than $400 for my entire car wiring - that is less than just a dash harness from YO.. 

[Shakey]

Good points Rolling Thunder!   

I guess you have seen both sides of the coin which makes your input more valuable than mine.   

I like the stock wiring harnesses from M&H and know they are pricey and easy to install, which is good because my electrical capabilities are limited.  Perhaps one day, if I choose to do another car, which I'd like to, I'll investigate my options.

[terrible one]

I think I've decided to wire the car with EZ Wiring. The "EZ 21" kit is $185 and has 18 fuses, 21 circuits. The description from the site says:

"Our EZ 21 pre-wired fuse block will wire your car from headlight's to taillight's. It features 18 fuses and 21 circuits. The circuits are Radio, Coil, Dome Lights, Headlights, Horn, Power Door Locks, Cig Lighter, Wiper Switch, Elect. Fuel Pump, Gauges, Hazard Lights, Power Windows, AC/Heat, Elect. Fan, Backup/Cruise, Radio, Turn Signal.

It also Includes Horn Relay and Connector, Turn and Hazard Signals, Dimmer Switch Connector, Circuit Breaker for Headlights, 2 Flashers, 1 Alternator Plug, 2 Ignition Switch
Connectors Plus more."

     

[JR]

Check this out. www.ronfrancis.com

This is the kit I'm going to use on my 70 soon. I'm very impressed with how its put together. I'm adding aftermarket guages, alternator, nitrous, stereo, and some other stuff to my 70 RT and my entire harness needs to be changed out. I do see some good reasons for this as opposed to a repro harness.

1. It elimanates the trouble-prone bulkhead connector. I can write a book about those things failing.

2. no more fusible links

3. No more glass fuses.

4. Easily upgradable and will handle much more work that the lousy factory wiring.


I could go on and on but I believe that the only major flaw with Mopars is their lousy wiring. I am building my car to be bullet proof and dead reliable and I think this is the best way.


The only thing that worries me is figuring out how to wire the factory heater/ac controls, hidden headlight switches and relays, etc, into the aftermarket harness. Thats going to drive me crazy. I am very interested in hearing what everyone elese is doing about this. I'm trying to put together the best wiring system possible.

The new harness thru the old bulkhead connector is a great idea. I was trying to figure out what kind of grommet or boot to use for that.

[JR]

I'm bumping this thread to the top cuz I will be wiring my car very soon and want to hear every bit of advice and ideas you guys have. I'm very interested in this..

[Bandit4142]

I just finished installing a Ron Francis Express wiring harness, and I was very impressed with the complete kit.   Not overly hard to install either.   My only previous experience with wiring has been very minor with stereos, amps, etc.  Heck, the only thing that was a little tricky was finding a spot to mount the Fuse panel.  I also purchase their extra "Courtesy Lighting" package with small interior lights.   I added these above each kick panel.   Between those, the lights in the console, and the one to the right of the stereo, I opted to install a switch for the dome light.   The interior lighting came out nice without being over powering at night, but lights up the floor and seating area really nice.

[Rolling_Thunder]

I just wanted to give everyone an update...     my wiring harnesses for the 1970 Charger R/T STILL HAVE NOT COME IN...     this is the LAST time i EVER deal with year one....     2.5 months....          2.5 months....        i guess being a paying customer isnt what it used to be...      sure - they didnt have a problem taking my $1000+       

[JR]

Hey bandit,
Did you mate the harness up to work with the factory heater box, headlight switch, wiper switch, etc? How involved was that. I haven't got their kit yet but that is the only thing I'm wondering. Where did you mount the fuse box? I was thinking of making a plate to put it behind the glovebox. I'd love to see pics if you got 'em, I'm wiring mine up as soon as the engines in.

Thanks

[charger_mike75]

Painless wiring has a mopar harness you can get from Summit Racing my brother got one for his 68 Dart. It has all the correct wire colors which is a big help.

[Bandit4142]

Well, funny you should mention those things....   I have Vintage Air, so wiring that was easy...  But I'm not sure about the factory heater wiring.   I used the vacum portion of my headlight switch for the headlight doors, but I used the Ron Francis switch for the actual power to the lighting.  When it comes to the wiper switch, I used the factory wiring from the switch to the Wiper motor itself, since that was simple and that was the only fragment of my harness that was in good shape.        For mounting the fuse panel, you'll realize when you get it, its pretty big.   I was planning on mounting it behind the glove box myself, but it just wasn't going to fit and be even remotely accessible.   I ended up removing the fresh air vent box from the driverside corner behind the dash, and this freed up a large amount of room directly on the firewall.   I found this spot to be the best overall.   

Something to keep in mind, I'm not interested, nor was it feesible (financially) to keep my Charger stock, so whether or not the color of the wires matched was of no concern to me.   I wanted a harness that was well made, modern in design, and virtually bulletproof reliable.   I found the Ron Francis harness met all of these criteria.   My father has built several "street rods" over the years, and installed both the Painless Brand, Ron Francis harnesses,  and felt they were both perfectly fine in design and function.   He told me that he felt the Ron Francis harness was more "expandable" in a sence of adding options down the line, which I plan to do, so I went that route.    I typically have larger sound systems, I also plan to add various power accessories as finances allow. 

Unfortunately this is the only pic I have and my digital camera is busted due to an over zealous German Sheperd.....    As soon as I get a new camera, I'll get some picks of the new setup....

[charger_mike75]

I only I bring up the wiring being the correct color because people such as myself and my brother haven't done anything like this before and it comes in handy when using the factory service manual. Just my point

[Bandit4142]

The factory service manual was INVALUABLE when it came to the installation of my Ron Francis Harness!   Even though the wires are indeed different colors, I couldn't have installed the harness without it.   Its good that you have it, you will reference it more times than you could possibly count when tackling a project like this.      I sincerely apologize if my "Wire Color" statement came off harsh, that wasn't my intention.   The wire color does mean alot to some in terms of originality, I was simply saying for me, I felt the change was unavoidable.   

To anyone reading this thread, the key to installing a new harness is, taking your time.  Don't let yourself get frustrated, and only look at a one thing at a time...  If you look at the entire project as a whole, it could be over whelming (at least it was for me), just take it one step at a time, and it will be over before you know it.   

[JR]

Theres a lot of good info here.

What did you do about the hole for the bulkhead connector Bandit?? How did you fill it up?

[Bandit4142]

Theres a lot of good info here.

What did you do about the hole for the bulkhead connector Bandit?? How did you fill it up?

I cut a piece of sheet aluminium (painted black) slightly larger than the bulkhead hole, the cut a "Keyhole" style shape from the bottom.   Then I installed a rubber gromet approximately the size of the entire harness so there wouldn't be any rubbing.   On the engine bay side I covered everything in black plastic looming so it finishes it off pretty nice.

[Bandit4142]

Here are some pics if you are interested.   

[charger_mike75]

Very nice work, I can't wait to do mine! 

[charger_mike75]

just out of curiosity did your car come with the console or did you add that in your self

[Bandit4142]

just out of curiosity did your car come with the console or did you add that in your self

Its a factory console car.  Although in that particular pic, its just layin' in there. 

[doctorpimp]

Here are some pics if you are interested.   

Where did you get that Battery tray for the Optima?
I'm looking for one...

[Bandit4142]

Here ya' go.     They also have other accessories for Optima's or standard batteries as well. 

http://www.eddiemarine.com/cart/catalog.asp?CategoryID=6&CategoryName=Battery%2F+Boxes%2FCharger