Manual valve body

[AWSOM50]

One thing I'd really like to have is a manual valve body.  I prefer to shift the car with the stick, and don't like the lag and inaccuracy with the stock valve body.  and I don't really have a need for a fully auto mode.

I would be getting a reverse pattern fully manual valve body with low band apply.

Is this the kind of thing that should be done as part of a full trans rebuild, or can it be just bolted on?

Who has fitted one of these and just how hard is it to fit?

thanks for any info

[mikepmcs]

Here's something I found for you.  Looks like a bolt in deal.

http://www.artcarr.com/instructions/30071.pdf

[AWSOM50]

Thanks for that, it looks like it is quite easy to fit from those instructions  .  But that one doesn't have a low band apply feature does it?

[Jon Smith]

I ran one for years with no low band apply, fitted it myself in about half an hour, easy
I have low band apply now for a bit more safety, I dont know if thats any harder to fit or not as I had it done when I had the trans rebuilt

[AWSOM50]

Thanks.  Which low band apply valve body did you get Jon?

Did you have the upgraded billet rear servo when you had it built?  Do you think its necessary?

[John_Kunkel]

If you're going to get a RMVB with low band apply for the street take a look at the A&A #22770-2wb, this VB has a check ball in the rear servo port to help ease the lurch when downshifting to 1st on the roll. A billet rear servo and spring retainer are always a good idea when the line pressure is raised.

You can get both from CRT  http://www.coperacingtrans.com

[Moparman01]

I run a Turbo Action Pro-Street Cheetah foward patern manual valve-body in the 727 behind the 440 in the General. It's has low band apply in first gear, it's primarily meant for street use. I have to admit it worries me tho, the 1st to 2nd gear shift it very violent, if your really hammering on the car and shift at a higher RPM then it shifts very smooth and breaks the tires loose, but if pulling away from a stop sign in trafic and have to granny it it bangs into gear really hard, shakes the car, then bogs for a second before it feels like its in gear. My buddy, whose a tranny specialist and built my 727, says it's just the way the valve body is and theres not much you can do about it. I shift it via a B&M MegaShifter that has been adjusted, and re-checked a couple of times, properly. I used to a reverse patern 904 in the car when it was origionaly powered by a 318 that used to do the same thing exept that it was when down shifting from 2nd to 1st.

[RD]

why not just put in a shift kit, increase the line pressure a tad and call it good?  all stock VB's have the low band apply and the shift kit does not alter this feature.

I have a valve body with a b&m shift kit that has a really good 1-2 shift and an excellent 2-3 shift.  That VB I have had since 1999 and have just moved it from one trans to another it shifts so nice.  It's perfect for street driving.  RMVB is good for racing, but really is not needed on a street car IMO.

But hey, I am not saying to not do it, it is just a matter of taste and desire ya know?

[AWSOM50]

Thanks for all the info, I like the sound of that A&A one. 

Is it nomal for what moparman01 to happen with a MVB?

I think I'd prefer a fully manual gear selection.  I don't like the way you can't floor it in 2nd without hitting first by accident.  Same with 3rd and second.  And I heard it causes greater wear to shift the stick manually with an auto valve body?  Also it would be nice to do away with the kickdown linkage. 

I have a feeling I already have a shift kit.  The shift is so muchmore aggressive than the 727 in my 383 car was. 

[AWSOM50]

Can anyone give me more info on whats involved in fitting the billet rear servo?   Can it definitely be done while the box is still in the car?

The guy from cope racing said I may have to remove the rear casing and driveshaft.

Can any who has done this give me more info?

thanks

[John_Kunkel]

You don't have to remove the tail to install a billet servo in a 727 but it's a messy job in the car.

These shift kit instructions give an idea of what the servo replacement entails, figures 7-11:

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Instructions/instructions/220000_inst.htm

[oldkimmer]

Beleeve u me moparman01 there is lots that can be done to FIX your 1-2 shift............kim

[AWSOM50]

thank you John Kunkel.

I think I am going to just order it and get on with it.

[AWSOM50]

I got the bits including the #22770-2wb A&A valve body.  I got an email with instructions saying not to shift into 1st unless below 5 mph.  I thought this was only the case if it didnt have low band apply?  Who is right?

So on the street I can't drop it into 1stand floor it at like 30 mph?  that would kinda suck as I have 3.23s and only mild horsepower.

[John_Kunkel]

I would call or email A&A for a clarification. I believe they are saying not to downshift to 1st above 5 mph when coasting to a stop. Even with the checkball there might me an objectionable lurch as the band applies above 5 mph. Just a guess.