68 charger dash wirig please help

[chargerman68]

can anyone take detailed pics of there dash wiring for the gauges.have the wiring diagram but still??any help on where the wiring go would help.
one some of my gauge wiring has eye pieces but i think i dont have many of these i have pigtails

[Doc MoPar]

Here is the only pic I could find.  I swiped it from one of the links here I think.  Try a search.  I have other pics but all with no wires attached.

[Doc MoPar]

If you have a more specific question I can try to help as I was just laying under the dash all New Years weekend.
Got all the guages to work except the Temp (I think that one is toast).

[chargerman68]

need detailed pic of where each wire goes.cant read a wiring diagram to save my life.thanks

[nh_mopar_fan]

I was the same way.

Go make an enlarged copy of the wiring diagram. Go buy a big pack of thin muli-colored markers.

If the diagram says it's supposed to be red, trace that wire on the diagram with the red marker. Do it for all the wires.

Even a moron like me can follow it after that's done.

[Doc MoPar]

OK, bear with me this will be a little long.

I assume you have tested all your gauges and they are functioning.

If not here's what I did:
I took a standard 3 D-Cell battery flashlight and used it as a power source.  3 D-Cells put out almost 5 volts very nicely.  I hooked some jumper wires to the back of one gauge at a time, Positive to the Red in my picture and the negative to the other post which corresponds to the sending unit.  If the gauge peg's you know it's working.  (I've read you can use a 9 volt battery , just be careful no to fry your gauges!!)
All the other posts where they say to ground the wire at the sending unit will only make the gauge work if it is in fact functional and if the cluster is getting power and your voltage regulator is working.  (lots of and's... I had to check everything since that did not work for me).

If all your gauges are working, check the voltage regulator.  Again I have no special tools only a multi tester so here's what I did:
I pulled the voltage regulator out and hooked 12 Volts directly to the input (middle post), I then grounded the regulator right to the cars battery (post hanging off the case) and hooked up my multi tester to the 5 Volt output (Bottom post).  The meter should bounce around from zero to ~5 volts.  If not the regulator is shot.  Do a search on this site for how to update it to solid state or get a diffrent one.

Now on to the wires.  As in my picture everything is color coded.  The 5 pins at the top of the circut board is where the plug from the dash harness hooks up.  (This was my problem, the previous owner must of had the dash out at some point and the plug was in upside down!!!  None of my gauges worked and neither did the dash lights because the power was all going into the Temp sending unit, I think that's what burned out my temp gauge)  So, make sure the Orange wire is on the side closest to the speedo and the Grey wire is on the opposite end.  That's all you need to run the fuel, temp, and oil gauges.  Getting the dash lights to work is a whole other post. 

If everything is hooked up, the cluster is well grounded, and you are getting power..... Then you can check the gauges by grounding out the wire at the sending unit and the gauge should go to full.  If not, might be the sending unit.

Hope that helps, if you have any other questions lemme know.

[chargerman68]

thanks hey doc can i get a pic of the alt setup....

[Doc MoPar]

The alternator just has the two wires, Red on the passenger side post(left in the pics) and Black on the driver side post(right in the pics).  The Red comes from the starter relay and the black comes from a common ground.  Make SURE the black plastic thing is on as shown in the pics, this isolates the positive from negative.  Without it you will short out the gauge!!  Here are two pics, hope they help.  I'm in the process of moving closer to LA, and all my books are packed up till early July.  Hope that helps.