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spindle&disk brake question...

Started by Bandit72, December 20, 2006, 02:27:16 AM

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Bandit72

December 20, 2006, 02:27:16 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966-67-68-69-70-71-Charger-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ004QQitemZ140065800500QQtcZphoto

i recently found out that my charger is in dire need of some new spindles and other misc front end parts...so i figured i'd just replace it all at one time, any way, my charger already has factory disks, and i found this "conversion" kit on ebay that has all of the parts i am wanting...basically my question is will these bolt right up in place of the old ones? (i have new ball joints at this time also) or am i missing something

this is my first time dealing with suspension so deal with me please

thanks Ryan Olson
Daddy ran whiskey in a big black dodge
bought it at an auction at the masons lodge,
Johnson County Sherriff painted on the side,
just shot a coat of primer then he looked inside,
well him and my uncle tore that engine down,
I still remember that rumblin' sound.....

Chatt69chgr

#1
December 20, 2006, 10:31:50 AM
That looks like a pretty good deal.  It's a slider setup and not a pin type.  Lots of folks think that type is better.  Not sure if it is the 11.75 inch or 10.87 inch rotors.  The slider caliper brackets kind of look like the smaller ones.  But they are more than adequate for any kind of normal driving.  I assume these are true a-body 73-76 spindles.  Not sure where they are getting them since I didn't think any manufacturer was offering them.  Most are offering the 3/4 inch taller spindle off 76 and up cars.   Which most think will work quite nicely.  But if you added up the cost of new parts you would approach what they are charging.  Probably won't get Timken bearings and probably won't get the best pads.  Proabably shouldn't worry about that.  I don't see why these won't work OK.  You may have trouble getting the old spindles off without damaging the new ball joint seals.  I think a fork causes damage to the seals.  The ball joint removers sold by American ???? (can't remember the company) but which are advertised in every Mopar Magazine supposedly don't cause the damage.  Since you won't be reusing your old spindle, the junkyard method is to hit the spindle adjacent to the ball joint with a hammer after you have backed off the ball joint bolt and it will pop loose.  Replacing the ball joints is a whole other operation.  Especially the upper one.  And there are safety considerations involving releasing the tension on the torsion bars.

Lord Warlock

#2
December 20, 2006, 05:31:26 PM
When you do swap it out, take some pics as you go.  I've had a conversion kit to more modern brakes for a while and the removal of the spindles is what put me off initially.   Never removed ball joints etc before, will have to do it eventually though. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Bandit72

#3
December 21, 2006, 03:26:14 AM
Quote from: Lord Warlock on December 20, 2006, 05:31:26 PM
When you do swap it out, take some pics as you go.  I've had a conversion kit to more modern brakes for a while and the removal of the spindles is what put me off initially.   Never removed ball joints etc before, will have to do it eventually though. 

well i have to admit...i won't be doing this part myself...i've heard too much about messing with torsion bars to steer me away...that and i've never really messed with front suspension before anyway...not to mention the fact that i don't have  a nice shop to work on it in, and i dont' want to lay in 3 inches of rain and mud to do all of this....

later
Daddy ran whiskey in a big black dodge
bought it at an auction at the masons lodge,
Johnson County Sherriff painted on the side,
just shot a coat of primer then he looked inside,
well him and my uncle tore that engine down,
I still remember that rumblin' sound.....

Bandit72

#4
December 24, 2006, 07:43:19 PM
it's on the way, thanks everybody
Daddy ran whiskey in a big black dodge
bought it at an auction at the masons lodge,
Johnson County Sherriff painted on the side,
just shot a coat of primer then he looked inside,
well him and my uncle tore that engine down,
I still remember that rumblin' sound.....

Bandit72

#5
January 04, 2007, 04:08:51 PM
well, change of plans, looks like i will be doing this myself, i am going to go ahead and replace the ball joints while i'm there, are there any special tools or tricks i should know before i start?

thanks Ryan Olson
Daddy ran whiskey in a big black dodge
bought it at an auction at the masons lodge,
Johnson County Sherriff painted on the side,
just shot a coat of primer then he looked inside,
well him and my uncle tore that engine down,
I still remember that rumblin' sound.....

Chryco Psycho

#6
January 04, 2007, 08:13:22 PM
You need a specal ball joint socket to replace the upper ball joints , you may need a Pickle fork to separte the the ball joint but often just hitting it hard with a heavy hammer will separate them , you can use the pressure of the T bar to help separate the ball joints but leave the nut on the ball joint so ti doesn`t come apart completely before you remove the spring load from the bar

Bandit72

#7
January 05, 2007, 04:29:45 PM
is there anything i'll need for the lower ball joints?
Daddy ran whiskey in a big black dodge
bought it at an auction at the masons lodge,
Johnson County Sherriff painted on the side,
just shot a coat of primer then he looked inside,
well him and my uncle tore that engine down,
I still remember that rumblin' sound.....

Lord Warlock

#8
January 08, 2007, 05:51:57 PM
whats the best way to unspring the weight? When you unbolt the ball joint (nut on top i believe) is it best to have it sitting with weight on or on a jack? or hanging free?  I bought a ball fork, in my kit i'm supposed to replace the spindles, then add on new rotors calipers etc.  Seems simple enough but always paranoid on parts i haven't taken apart before. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Chryco Psycho

#9
January 08, 2007, 11:57:18 PM
Quote from: Bandit72 on January 05, 2007, 04:29:45 PM
is there anything i'll need for the lower ball joints?

just sockets to remove the bolts

Chryco Psycho

#10
January 08, 2007, 11:58:32 PM
Quote from: Lord Warlock on January 08, 2007, 05:51:57 PM
whats the best way to unspring the weight? When you unbolt the ball joint (nut on top i believe) is it best to have it sitting with weight on or on a jack? or hanging free?  I bought a ball fork, in my kit i'm supposed to replace the spindles, then add on new rotors calipers etc.  Seems simple enough but always paranoid on parts i haven't taken apart before. 

put a stand under the LCA & it will hold the arm while you undo the spindle without removing the load from the T bar 
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