one more time................alt. questions

[myk]

not to rehash a old issue, but I have the problem as well, but I have a MSD 6AL system, new chrome alt from summit, am I grounding the - to the chassis as well?

Is it a single or dual field alternator?  If you're asking about the negative on the 'alt, that will go to a green wire that hooks up to the voltage regulator...

[Khyron]

not to rehash a old issue, but I have the problem as well, but I have a MSD 6AL system, new chrome alt from summit, am I grounding the - to the chassis as well?

Is it a single or dual field alternator?  If you're asking about the negative on the 'alt, that will go to a green wire that hooks up to the voltage regulator...

I have that done. top pin is green, but there is another pin there.... my setup is like this without the resistor. I'm going to assume it's a dual field being that it's a new alt



I have a MSD box instead.

[Nacho-RT74]

resistor and ign module has nothing to do ith charging system beside the fact both are activated by the same signal... with ballast or not.

Dual field are usually squarebacks alts, although some roundback single field has has been modified to work like dual field

on single fields one of the brushes is directly bolted on to back housing, without a plastic housing or ISOLATOR. on dual fields both are inserted on plastic housings or isolators. will be enough with just "unisolate" one of the brushes, using a metalic whaser on to the holding screw instead the isolation washer... or wiring it to chassis.

dual field use both brushes isolated because now the regulator signal is the negative one, not the positive anymore, being now the positive constant from key,  that makes the need to get both isolated from chassis

However, being you already have the "expensive" part of the elect regulator setup, I would make the complete upgrade. Just will need run a blue wire to feed the other brush, the elec regulator and its plug... AND DONE!

THAT WILL BE  AGREAT IMPROVEMENT TO THE NEW MSD... more stablish power

[Khyron]

good deal, all fixed, thanks guys

[mopar0166]

new

[mopar0166]

Furhter to the above, does the modifed diagram and pics look ok?

I have been experiencing low voltage (10s)

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Kind dug up an older thread here. If your car is a 69 as your logo suggests and you have the older electromechanical regulator or an electronic replacement for it, you need to add aground wire on one of the alternator brushes. In your photo you show a square back alternator used on the 72 and up cars which used the Chrysler electronic regulator system. To use that alternator in a 69 you need to ground one of the alternator brushes. I see the green wire in your photo, but, don't see anything on the other brush connection. You need to ground that one. The square back alternators had two isolated field connections, while a true 69 alternator had one brush internally grounded. That is very likely why your system voltage is down to 10 volts.

[mopar0166]

Thanks for the quick reply, So if im reading correctly the other open feild terminal should be grounded to the body. 

I just built this engine and have resolved most of the other bugs but if a ground wire will solve this then its an easy fix 

[Pete in NH]

Yes, just ground the unconnected field terminal in your picture to some point on either the engine block or alternator body and you should be all set.

[Ghoste]

I used to ground mine up to the same point where the washer motor grounds but that is unsightly.  Next time I would pick a spot out of sight.

[mopar0166]

Added ground wire , seems good and getting good volts.  ill have to update when I can get it out of  the garage.  we are getting some crappy weather right now in jersey