one more time................alt. questions

[MorePwr]

The bulkhead plug was definitely a contributor. it was a bit corroded. I cleaned and greased it. then checked the voltage at the switch, 12.8 going in and 10.3 comming out...so new switch. problem is solved

Now I get to figure out what happened to the gauges (fuel and temp) Did I fry them when the voltage was getting up to 18v? I read somewhere here that there is a gauge regulator. I suppose that will be my next stop

thanks again for the help

[Nacho-RT74]

I don't think so. Just getting more power would be a higher reading, becasue average output power coming out from limiter will be maybe 6 or 6.5  instead 5 volts.

[MorePwr]

I'll have to get in there and take a look. throughout all this my gauges never read high. my gas gauge was reading 1/4 to 1/2 when I know it was full and the temp gauge come on for a few minutes when first started then drop.  but now nothing with either gauge.

I'll check the voltage and grounds next and get back to you.

[roger01]

the wire from battery to regulatorthat you put on to help...... from where to where

[roger01]

ihave the same problem as you desribed same set up as pic new battery new alt new volt regulator grounded as nacho told me a while back...ive got 17 at battery at idle and almost 20 volts at alt....

[roger01]

ok i did some home work ...the alternator on my car is from a 1977 new yorker its a 90 amp is this too much enen though i have grounded the unused field

[Nacho-RT74]

amperage is not given if car and batt don't need, so high amps alts are not a problem beside resistance of system itself ( thin wires, loosen, rusted and dirty terminals ) causing overheating when you have low power coming from batt or high consumption on car because accesories.

[roger01]

the green wire is all cracked does it run directly to the voltage regulator paired up with another wire on the right side of the regulator ...im going to replace it

[roger01]

update ......i spliced in a new iec of wire now ive got 14.2 at the alt and 14.7 at the battery are these numbers ok ....i think the battery is a little hight because i charged the hell out of it last night at almost 20 volts ..you think im good to go

[Nacho-RT74]

14.5 is more less what you have to have with engine running

what the hell you spliced ? LOL

[roger01]

lol iknow iwas shocked ....the green wire hooking to the alt seemed fine to me wasnt grounding any where but were alot of faint cracks ....so i just cut it all off to where it looked good what the hell  ....hooked it back up and there you go .....why would just doing this drop the out put by 5 volts

[roger01]

i give up ....i left the car...2 days ago.. it was fine .....started it tonight its  back to 17 volts ...i give up

[roger01]

just  got a brand new alt .......with the green field wire disconnected completely off the alt .....im getting 16.85 volts at the red out put wire

[roger01]

and when its all connected ...when i disconnect the batter while running ,the engine shuts down

[roger01]

forget everything i just said i took my volt tester and smashed it on the driveway........now my new volt tester reads 11.85 at the alt and battery.....when i take one terminal off the battery it dies ....not charging ......new alt ..new volt reg.. and complete new grn wire from alt to regulator

[Nacho-RT74]

from the distance is hard to know what is happening.

just can say check for 12 volts on reg input ( with key in RUN )

check for 12 volts on green wire. ( reg output )

check for 12 volts at alt stud wire

check for tight nuts at ammeter

check for good contack on bulhead plugs ( clean and everything )

otherwise, alt is damaged somehow.

[roger01]

the terminal on the left side of mechanichal regulator is readin 0 with key in the on position everthing else 12

[Nacho-RT74]

If you don't have output from regulator up to feed alt brush you never will get output from alt... need input in brush to get magnetic field on alt rotor when spining and then get output on alt.

Try to feed brush directly from batt. Becarefull don't rev up the engine because you will be getting MAX ALT OUTPUT, and probably will overcharge a little bit.

Then check ammeter reading. You can also disconect the batt, even is not the right way is the FOR SURE method you are really feeding with alt.

[Nacho-RT74]

BTW, not really sure how much must get from reg and if should be powered just on running engine being mechanical, but sure should be powered to feed the brush.

My electronic reg have 12 volts on neg and pos wires... well, positive comes directly from ignition key, but neg comes from reg, and that is included with engine off.

[roger01]

nacho... thats just it ...i have 12 volts onthe right side of the reg and nothing on the left with key on i have 2 new regulators and they all show the same ...( i thought it was the regulator for sure )......i had the alt tested today it is good i took my dash out cleaned the leads at the ammeter.
            when the car is running i used to be able to take the battery out and it kept running ....now it just dies
im going to  go try hooking the battery direct to the brush now ...and see what happens

[roger01]

ok i hooked battery direct to brush feed at low idle am getting around 15 volts ......what next ....im a good listener lol

[Nacho-RT74]

another regulator maybe ? LOL.


did you check is REALLY CHARGING ? Once I got 18 volts at iddle and 24 volts reving up and no charge

[roger01]

 no im not really sure if its charging but i know the alt is good         if im getting 12 volts on the r ight of the reg everything should be ok inside the car shouldnt it ...?....i think its got to be the regulator ...but ive got 2 of them now `brand new ...left side i have 0..volts.... am i supposed to have 12 .....anyway i can  test the regulator?...thanks for hangin in there for me ....

[Nacho-RT74]

I never trust on voltimeters to know is charging or not. Volts don't charge, amps do it. Best is a combined measurements. Ammeter is more accurate to know about current flow and balance but doesn't mean is the PERFECT gauge either.

IMHO you have just one option: get another reg. Electronic stuff is never guaranteed. Dunno which one you are trying to run, but maybe if you get one of those electronic upgraded with old fashion mechanical look will get better results ?

Mechanical regulators are just a points system relay that send more pulses when need more charge to get more average load.

Did you told me got a later double field alt and grounded one of the brushes to keep old kind system single field working right ?

[roger01]

i have the old style .....im going to do the upgrade today ....i have the instructions .....one thing that isnt clear on the instructions is that i have to connect the 2 wires on the mechanical regulator with a 3 rd new wire for a total of three wire ....but on my regulator ( right side ) there are 2 wires plugging in from factory .......this would give me a total of 4 wires with the new one added .....is this correct ?

       what the 2 wires for ? ...one from the ignition where the other going ?