Need some quick advice on a 383 block for sale

[bull]

This isn't rocket science but I need some quick advice on what to look for on a 383 engine block I'm looking to buy. It's a "383 core block w/main caps for $75" that the guy says is a '68 model. I'm going this afternoon and I just want to make sure I know what I'm doing because it's been quite a while since I've had an engine out. What years are compatable with my late '67 block? I know some of the later 383s were externally balanced but I can't remember if that has anything to do with the block. How do you look for cracks? What was the exact stock bore (I'm taking calipers) and how much lip would there be before it needs to be bored beyond stock? What am I forgetting?

[no318]

I don't think there is any difference in blocks from 66-67 on anyway.  Block will have nothing to do with balance.  Strictlly rotating assembly.  Stock bore is 4.250 but may be hard to measure with a caliper.  The most wear will be in the "pocket" about 1/2" done from the top.  If you can catch your finger nail it will probably need bored.  If it is a 68 engine, there should be a "D" cast in the ID pad below the distributor hole.  If it has frozen, many times you can see it in the core plugs being pushed out and/or cracks near them.  Cracks aren't very common that I have seen unless engine froze.  Hope this helps some

[Chryco Psycho]

70 up 2 bbl 383 hascast cranks but the blocks will swap , a 67 will be a steel crank block , casting date will be on the side of the block
cracks can be extremely difficult to see but the block can be checked at a machine shop

[bull]

70 up 2 bbl 383 hascast cranks but the blocks will swap , a 67 will be a steel crank block , casting date will be on the side of the block
cracks can be extremely difficult to see but the block can be checked at a machine shop

I bought it. It's a 10/69 block so it was in a '70 model car. The distributor pad says F 383 but the owner doesn't know what the engine came out of. I already took it to the machine shop to have it tanked and fluxed so we'll see what they say. They already told me it has the stock bore but it will have to go .030 over because the taper was about .009 in the worst spot. From what I could see it looks pretty good but it's hard to tell. Lots of grease and grime and most of the bearings were still in it along with the main caps.

The seller threw in 5 left over oil filters and some spark plugs from his mom's New Yorker that will work on my Dakota so I figure I paid about $45-$50 for the block. Less of a hit in case it's junk.

[Scatpack]

also when buying a bb or rb,i would stay away from pre 68 blocks,they can get cracks by the freeze plugs.In 68 CHrysler reinforced that area for that reason.Its obvious when you look at a pre 68 and post 68 to compare them

[squeakfinder]

also when buying a bb or rb,i would stay away from pre 68 blocks,they can get cracks by the freeze plugs.In 68 CHrysler reinforced that area for that reason.Its obvious when you look at a pre 68 and post 68 to compare them

\

I was talking to my machinist yesterday about the 440 he is working on for me and he brought up that fact about the early blocks. His parents had a 67 Chrysler that had cracked at the freeze plug by a motor mount. There was a place in Portland,Oregon that had repaired so many of those that they didn't even pull the engine to weld it back together. The engine worked fine for years after.

[bull]

also when buying a bb or rb,i would stay away from pre 68 blocks,they can get cracks by the freeze plugs.In 68 CHrysler reinforced that area for that reason.Its obvious when you look at a pre 68 and post 68 to compare them

\

I was talking to my machinist yesterday about the 440 he is working on for me and he brought up that fact about the early blocks. His parents had a 67 Chrysler that had cracked at the freeze plug by a motor mount. There was a place in Portland,Oregon that had repaired so many of those that they didn't even pull the engine to weld it back together. The engine worked fine for years after.

Hmmm. Don't remember the name do you? That would be a nice piece of info to hang on to just in case.

[squeakfinder]

Will be talking to him Tuesday. I'll try and remember to ask him where it was done.

This was something done years ago but he seems to have a good memory.

If I don't have an answer on here by Tuesday evening, remind me....

[bull]

Ok. I'll have to find someone to remind me to remind you.

[Steve P.]

Bull, I just had a block repaired. The crack was between freeze plugs in one side of the block. The machine shop did some kind of drilling and stitching deal. They said they do it allllllllllot. At any rate I looked at both sides of the block and I can't even find their work.  (Maybe I got screwed).. Haha...  I checked around and I heard from most that this IS a normal practice and works very well.

The real pisser is that the engine shop that did all the previous machining never caught it. It has never been fired since before the previous machining.. Glad I brought it in to have it throughly checked out..

Also had it decked and align bored. The previous machine shop sucked.. It was some bung hole shop in Crawfordsville, Indiana.   

[squeakfinder]

Looks like the company's was Pallety but thieve gone out of business. He's going to do some digging because there is a guy in Gresham, Oregon they deal with that does real nice work.

They have sent blocks and cylinder heads to him and, like Steve P.'s experience they can't tell where the repair has been made when it comes back.

So, don't throw away your old cracked castings. Apparently there's hope.

[bull]

Looks like the company's was Pallety but thieve gone out of business. He's going to do some digging because there is a guy in Gresham, Oregon they deal with that does real nice work.

They have sent blocks and cylinder heads to him and, like Steve P.'s experience they can't tell where the repair has been made when it comes back.

So, don't throw away your old cracked castings. Apparently there's hope.

Thanks. Gresham is like two miles away so I'm good to go. Fortunately I just found out my 2nd engine block has no cracks in it (http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,22565.0.html) but like I said it would be nice to have this info for future reference.