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Building a shortblock

Started by Kryp2nitE, August 31, 2005, 02:20:38 PM

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Kryp2nitE

time to help me build a short block

either a 383 stroked to a 438 with long rods

a regular stroke 440

or a 440 stroked to 512 cubes

all will have a 4340 forged crank, forged h beam rods with arp-2000 bolts, and ross dished forged pistons

the 440 and stroked 383 have the best Bore/Stroke and Rod/Stroke numbers (1.80 R/S and 1.15 B/S) but the 512 has the cubes to back its poor #'s up




The Mad Scientist

I thought you were selling your project.  Did you find another?

Kryp2nitE

basically by some random act from my school they reinstated my scholarship so i dodged a bullitt for now

so i have to get off my ass and get some school work done this semester

The Mad Scientist

I know what you mean.  I may have to sell some of my cars if things don't start going my way,  Last week I was only scheduled for about 13 hours at work.

MTPOCKET


Kryp2nitE

picked up my engine today

decided 7.2 Liters was enough (for now) so 440 is it

so far:
1973-74 440
Holley 750 vac secondaries (will need to be changed when turbo is added)
edelbrock Torker II single plane intake
open chamber heads, gasket matched, pocket ported, 3 angle valve job, oversized valves, dual springs
8.5:1 compression with forged pistons
mopar 509 purpleshaft (will need to be changed when turbo is added)

MoparYoungGun


cudaken

 Kryp2nitE, with a boost engine you will be OK as long as you don't go over 10 PSI with the 8.5 to ones. But was the engine bored on it last rebulid? .030 over bore will places you at 8.88 to one. Where the head's cut? .010 will add another .10 to one woth out doing the math.

Two thing's if you are dropping in the 440 with out rebuliding it.

Dump the 509 Cam, Neil will post a better cam later. I have a 509 cam in my Runner, need's more compression than what you have. 8.5 to one will make it a stone unless you have 3500 stall and 3.91 or deeper gears. At idel to 2400 PRM's like beating a dead horse, 2500 RPM's, well it start's to wake up 3500 RPM's it show time! If you want to keep that cam, advances 2 degress, will help bottom end.

Have the deck height checked. Good chances if stock push rod's they will be to short.

Neil (chryo pshyo) will have more up to date cam's for you to look at. My self, I like the old MP 284/284/484/484 cam. Served me well, soory I went to the 509 cam. Real pain in the ass on the sreet with a 727. 484 cam is a lot better below 2000 RPM's where I spend 85% of the time.

                              Cuda Ken

I am back

Kryp2nitE

they are 30 over peices, unkown on the status of the cut(s) (the seller didnt even  know)

over boring with a flat top piston will increase CR?

im going to keep the pistons and rods in there, it spun a bearing so a bearings , rings etc (and a rod)

the block only has 4k miles since it was bored
and he gave me another set of pistons rods and crank to use the best combo i have

he offered me an extra 484 cam he had lying around so maybe ill take him up on that iffer
if not ive got a stock 383 cam that should do ok for boost

hows your boosted 440, ken?

Kryp2nitE

also another question

what are the differences between car heads and motorhome heads?

Chryco Psycho

cooling , the motorhome heads may have extra cooling or may be totally different depending what motorhome engine you have

cudaken

 Kryp2nit, the 484 cam will not work well with a boost engine if that is what you ment.

When it is all hooked up overdriven 10% I should have 12 PSI. Going to under drive the blower first and should have 8 PSI but there is many other factors that Neil explained to me and made my head hurt.

On the Blower cam, I used a Reed Cam. Main thing is the center line is a little off for a Mopar 114.0@cam center and there is more exhuast duration and lift on the exhaust as well.

Will lite the holes Thursady for beak in with a carb. Seem's I have nothing to do for the few weeks.

                                  Cuda Ken







I am back

Kryp2nitE

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on September 07, 2005, 12:38:33 AM
cooling , the motorhome heads may have extra cooling or may be totally different depending what motorhome engine you have

hmm interesting, the engine isnt a motorhome engine but one of the heads is


CUDAKEN:
"When it is all hooked up overdriven 10% I should have 12 PSI. Going to under drive the blower first and should have 8 PSI but there is many other factors that Neil explained to me and made my head hurt."

is your blower intercooled?  what sort of hp do u expect to make?



"On the Blower cam, I used a Reed Cam. Main thing is the center line is a little off for a Mopar 114.0@cam center and there is more exhuast duration and lift on the exhaust as well."

anybody got the hookup on a reed cam? or care to divulge the specs on yours, i imagine im stuck with a stock cam or something custom