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Ok, need help with what is incorrect in my interior

Started by resq302, December 27, 2006, 08:48:19 PM

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resq302

Ok guys and gals.  I am getting down to the point where I can not think of anything else in my interior that is not the way it should have been when it rolled off the factory assembly line.  Please note that I have since changed over the master cylinder to the correct disc brake style for 1969 and it is painted the correct semi flat black.  What I am looking for is to have people spot items that are not the correct color, style, part, etc on my car so I can get it back to the way it would have rolled off the assembly line.  Right now I am just making a master list of what needs to be changed or corrected before the start of the show season so I will not have to be tearing apart the car mid season.

Thanks again and be as brutal as you can.  I can take it.  If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.  The car is a 69 Charger with factory 383 HP engine and 4 speed console car.  Factory installed power disc brakes as well.  I will also be doing the same thing for my engine and undercarriage if I have photos of them saved on my computer as well.  Let the judging begin..... (and yes, I have a correct red cap repro style battery for the car also)

Brian
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

resq302

some more for your entertaining pleasure......
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Charger-Bodie

ok first off the painted part of the interior door shell shouldnt that be white ? one thing i do know is that paint should go all the way to the weatherstrip next i would have the door latches replated and the plug below the latch looks like the wrong style and lastly VERY NICE CHARGER YOU HAVE !! keep up the great work
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Dodge Don

The jack spring should go around the tire iron, not through the loop........at least that's my understanding

resq302

The jack spring does go around the tire iron but is right up against the loop that holds the jack handle/tire iron down.  The door latches.... are you talking about the striker plate on the door jamb or the latch that is mounted inside the door?  If so, the latch inside the door can not be replated as there is a plastic piece inside the door latch and will not survive the plating process.  The black plastic plug below the door latch on the door is a recessed plastic plug like was used originally but does not have the Chrysler star on it.  The black on the bottom part of the door panels I found out it was supposed to be white AFTER I went through hell painting that the gloss black so that might be my little variation for now until I need to get the door panels and weather stripping off again.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: resq302 on December 28, 2006, 12:31:13 AM
The jack spring does go around the tire iron but is right up against the loop that holds the jack handle/tire iron down.  The door latches.... are you talking about the striker plate on the door jamb or the latch that is mounted inside the door?  If so, the latch inside the door can not be replated as there is a plastic piece inside the door latch and will not survive the plating process.  The black plastic plug below the door latch on the door is a recessed plastic plug like was used originally but does not have the Chrysler star on it.  The black on the bottom part of the door panels I found out it was supposed to be white AFTER I went through hell painting that the gloss black so that might be my little variation for now until I need to get the door panels and weather stripping off again.
1 the latches can be plated the plastic slide will survive we have them done all the time  i would do the strikers and the shims and screws too
2 the door plug is not suposed to be resessed its supposed to be flat and somewhat above the surface
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

tan top

wow that looks awesome :yesnod:
Quote from: 1hot68 on December 27, 2006, 09:30:09 PM
ok first off the painted part of the interior door shell shouldnt that be white ? one thing i do know is that paint should go all the way to the weatherstrip next i would have the door latches replated and the plug below the latch looks like the wrong style and lastly VERY NICE CHARGER YOU HAVE !! keep up the great work
 
        :iagree:         thats what i thought , door shell should of been white :-\ .  yeah door plug is the wrong type :yesnod:  .   on mine (original paint)  the interior color stopped   about an inch short of the weather stripe clip holes. on the under side of the door only  . just  stopped before the edge of the  access hole ,  don't think this matters though as it probably down to the guy who painted it at the factory .
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

tan top

Quote from: Dodge Don on December 27, 2006, 10:24:34 PM
The jack spring should go around the tire iron, not through the loop........at least that's my understanding
yeah i though that , mine is the same :yesnod: , but i have seen them the other way round also :scratchchin:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

gtx6970

Quote from: Dodge Don on December 27, 2006, 10:24:34 PM
The jack spring should go around the tire iron, not through the loop........at least that's my understanding

I'm not sure I follow here. It looks correct to me. the lug wrench goes thru the looped end of the spring and the hook end hooks into the jack itself. That way it holds everything in place to prevent rattles

tan top

Quote from: gtx6970 on December 28, 2006, 07:12:15 PM
Quote from: Dodge Don on December 27, 2006, 10:24:34 PM
The jack spring should go around the tire iron, not through the loop........at least that's my understanding

I'm not sure I follow here. It looks correct to me. the lug wrench goes thru the looped end of the spring and the hook end hooks into the jack itself. That way it holds everything in place to prevent rattles
               :iagree:  Bill  :yesnod:    what i am referring to  is the spring  as well as  being a loop  on one end , there is another type  no loop just a hook to both ends  and hooks under the lug wrench instead . i have this type . pretty sure it is original to the car   ,  i have also seen a    few unrestored cars with this type .  and my own thoughts on this is the springs being repoped are looped at one end , are for later built cars  .     as i thought there was only one type until the  repops  came on sale . probably wrong on this one  :rotz:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Just 6T9 CHGR

I agree with others...door frame should be interior color (W1) not black.

Spare tire should be a plain steel rim not a Road Wheel....wing nut should be zinc plated not black
Trunk hinge bushings/guides should be white not body color
Stripe should be "folded" in over the marker light housing
Jack installation looks right to me (same as pictured on the jacking instructions on the trunk lid)
Door jam switches???  Are they there?

On a side note I would add the pedal dress up kit...much nice IMHO :yesnod:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


resq302

Quote from: Just 6T9_CHGR.... on December 28, 2006, 09:18:32 PM
I agree with others...door frame should be interior color (W1) not black.

Spare tire should be a plain steel rim not a Road Wheel....wing nut should be zinc plated not black
Trunk hinge bushings/guides should be white not body color
Stripe should be "folded" in over the marker light housing
Jack installation looks right to me (same as pictured on the jacking instructions on the trunk lid)
Door jam switches???  Are they there?

On a side note I would add the pedal dress up kit...much nice IMHO :yesnod:

Chris,

I thought the trunk hinge bushings were installed prior to the car being painted.  I thought I remembered reading that in an article somewhere with an interview from an assembly line worker.

The door jamb switches are there but are not plated, just as they were manufactured.  (I think it was a brass crush collar and a zinc pin on them if I remember right)
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Just 6T9 CHGR

Brian you could be right about the trunk guides.  I really havent read up on it but  lot of the high $$ restos I have seen left them white???  Mine are painted as well....
The switches should be right....I just couldnt tell if you had them in the pic
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


gtx6970

Quote from: tan top on December 28, 2006, 08:14:01 PM
   what i am referring to  is the spring  as well as  being a loop  on one end , there is another type  no loop just a hook to both ends  and hooks under the lug wrench instead . i have this type . pretty sure it is original to the car   ,  i have also seen a    few unrestored cars with this type .  and my own thoughts on this is the springs being repoped are looped at one end , are for later built cars  .     as i thought there was only one type until the  repops  came on sale . probably wrong on this one  :rotz:

I'm not 100% sure. My challenger was the first car I've ever owned that had the jack spring. and it had the looped spring. (it didn't have the right jack in it though when I bought it) so it's very possibile it was changed the same time the jack was.

more investigation is called for on my end , looks like a trip to the local yard with camera in hand

Dodge Don

Quote from: gtx6970 on December 28, 2006, 07:12:15 PM
Quote from: Dodge Don on December 27, 2006, 10:24:34 PM
The jack spring should go around the tire iron, not through the loop........at least that's my understanding

I'm not sure I follow here. It looks correct to me. the lug wrench goes thru the looped end of the spring and the hook end hooks into the jack itself. That way it holds everything in place to prevent rattles

The picture looked at first glance like the spring was hooked through the floor pan loop. I see on closer inspection the spring loop is around the lug wrench.

Back N Black

The trunk weatherstrip seam should not be centered,i think it should be offset to the left? correct me if I'm wrong?

THE CHARGER PUNK

if you want it to be correct you might wanna take off that R/T Bumble bee stripe :yesnod:

resq302

Quote from: THE CHARGER PUNK on December 31, 2006, 05:23:35 PM
if you want it to be correct you might wanna take off that R/T Bumble bee stripe :yesnod:

I would if it would mean that I would not have to repaint the car.  Since I know red fades and oxidizes so badly, I don't want to take the chance reoving it and then having a two tone red stripe on the car.  The stripe was on there when I got the car and I am guessing it was put on shorty after the car was painted over 10 years ago.  I guess I will have to put that on my "Eventually" list after I hit the lottery or when the car certainly needs a new paint job.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Dodge Don

Quote from: Back N Black on December 30, 2006, 11:01:05 PM
The trunk weatherstrip seam should not be centered,i think it should be offset to the left? correct me if I'm wrong?

Mine was to the left of center by about 3-4 inches.

Neal_J

A couple of comments.  First and foremost, this post and the related engine compartment posts have been the most enjoyable I've read in 3+ years here.  Your restoration is extremely well done and I've learned as much from your pics as from the constructive comments of our board's resident experts.  The feedback and dialog has been fantastic. Thanks for giving us the opportunity to comment.  I hope others are willing to do the same.

The two things I noticed were:

Trunk weatherstrippin is off.  I agree that it should be offset 4-6" from center, as previously noted. Also, there should not be a gap at the seam.  I've seen this many times when the stripping is stretched slightly during installation but relaxes/retracts as the adhesive sets.  I did my installation in two steps doing all but the last foot in one shot and the last foot the next day.  I also deliberately cut the last foot about 1/4" long to ensure it wouldn't retract.

The trunk mat looks like a vinyl repro.  I had one and replaced it with the heavier rubber mat and was pleased that the wrinkles seen in the vinyl were not present in the heavier rubber material.

Thanks again!

Neal

resq302

Neal,

Thanks for the comment as I hope everyone else enjoyed the info that I have been able to stir up, both good and bad.  Maybe eventually, when the car needs a repaint, I can get the trunk weatherstripping redone also. 

As for the trunk mat, it is a heavy gauge rubber repro as the first repro one I got was like a vinyl table cloth.  Needless to say that was total junk and the wrinkles never came out.

Again, thanks for everyones comments both praise and negative.  I am not offended in the worst way and actually happy that people were kind enough to help me out with what is incorrect in my engine section thread and on this thread.  I have already taken some measures and have gotten some parts, most of which I am just awaiting on delivery on.  Hopefully soon I can post a pictures of my undercarriage and everyone can help me out with that just like was done with these two threads.

To me, this is what makes this board so great.  Everyone helping everyone else out.

Brian
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

69CoronetRT

Since no one has commented on it I assume it's OK for the jack base and mechanism to be gray and not black? 69 B bodys I've seen are black.
Seeking information on '69 St. Louis plant VINs, SPDs and VONs. Buld sheets and tag pictures appreciated. Over 3,000 on file thanks to people like you.

resq302

The vast majority of the ones I have seen have always been that gray color.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Dennis K

Brian, where did you get the heavy weight vinyl trunk mat? I didn't know there were good ones and bad ones until I read this post, so thanks for bringing it up. I still need to get a trunk mat for my 68 and I want to get a good one. About those door plugs, check your local hardware store. I found some at my local farm & fleet store in the hardware section on a shelf with a bunch of drawers full of oddball hardware & stuff. They call them "button plugs" on the label, and the size you need is 7/8". If you can't find them locally, I would be happy to get you some here and send them to you, they are 35 cents each, and you would need 6, since the 2 on the inside front of the doors are the same plug. I also have a bunch of originals that I pick off of cars in junkyards whenever I see them so I could probably come up with 6 good used ones if you're worried about the Mopar part number. The new ones are indistinguishable from the originals on the side that shows.

resq302

Dennis,

the trunk mat I got from either Dante's or Legendary.  It has been a while now and have ordered a lot of parts since then so the mind gets cloudy after a while.


Thanks for the info about the door plugs to check with my local hardware store.


Brian
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto