Rotisserie??

[TylerCharger69]

I hope I'm posting this in the proper place......Is there a place (website) where a rotisserie can be purchased?.....Or...does someone have schematic illustrations on how one could be built?....We are going to do a complete resto on my General Lee after the 1st of the year and we will need this.   We have most of the parts ready to go, so hopefully  the process won't take too long.  I don't need rear quarters or anything like that.    The only things I need to replace is the trunk floor, trunk drop offs, and the filler panel between the rear window and deck lid.   I already have these parts.  And.....without acid dipping......what's the best/easiest way to remove undercoating?   We sort of documented certain things on the car like  brake lines and such are sprayed over with undercoating, which  I'd rather undercoat   BEFORE installing any hardware.  It just looks better that way.   There are a few places where rust is starting to appear on the body  and I'm going to take care of that before it gets bad.   The undercarriage has no rust whatsoever...other than the trunk floor.   It looks like there was a leak at that filler panel  from the rear window  and most likely leaked down into the trunk area.   There are a few small areas on the body  where some dumbass   used bondo to hide dings that need to be addressed, but nothing major.    It's going to be a basecoat-clearcoat.   We plan on doing a full sealer coat on the car,  then the basecoat....apply the graphics kit....and then go with the clear.   Now.....also.....are there coincedentals (hidden) that need to be checked over the frame/body during this process?....The car is extremely solid,  and there is absolutely no rust issues on the undercarriage to speak of.    Your experiences would be very helpful.    We are going to attempt this  within a 3 month period  after a few years of collecting necessary parts.   I didn't want to do this until I had all of the parts in order.    I don't like waiting...lol   Every one's input  would be greatly appreciated.

[derailed]

I was helping a friend of mine do a search on these. He was looking to build one so the first place we looked on was ebay. There is several of them on there and also plans to build your own. Its a good place to compare how they are built as well.

http://motors.search.ebay.com/auto-rotisserie_eBay-Motors_W0QQcatrefZC6QQcoactionZcompareQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfclZ3QQfromZR2QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQpqryZautoQ20rotiiserieQQsacatZ6000QQsofocusZbs

[Doc74]

It should belong in paint&body but the mods will have to decide that, anyway...a resto

You seem to have planned it right. Get the parts of the puzzle before you start the work. As you want a rotisserie I assume you're about to strip the whole car top to bottom ? If you have a bare shell and you don't want to dip it then I suggest blasting it, I leave it to others to say which media is best for the job. Lots of ways to remove undercoating, lots are messy. Dry ice does wonders, google on it and you'll find a fairly detailed explanation of the process. In short dry ice makes the undercoating fall off IF it's thick enough.
If the brake lines and such have an undercoating mist on them then scraping with a plastic knife or similar and cleaning with a paint thinner is the easiest.
There's also flame + steel scraper and brush, wirewheel types and other nasty things. Blasting would be my favorite for the body, not only the bottom but every inner panel you can't reach with tools and the inside floors and seams.
All the old caulking should be removed and replaced later after primer.
Hidden things...the c pillars are very badly done from the factory. You could strip them and do it right but if it looks good now and shows no signs of cracks and rust you could just as well leave it or just give it a better finish. They usually don't line up 100% on top and in the drip rail. I had to modify CB's charger to make them smooth as they should be. Some cutting and welding was needed but some can be fixed with a tiny drop of filler.
I guess no two are alike.

Check every panel and measure the gaps, valance corners can be a bit off, bumpers tend to be on crooked,all these things need to be fixed before paint is mentioned.
If it looks good to your critic eye, you are the owner of the beast, then it probably looks good to all. Lure in a bodyman with some beer and let him check out your work if you can.
You're going to re-undercoat it? So it's a driver? Check out ceramic coating, I lost the link again so maybe someone has it here. It supposedly reduces noise and heat drastically altough I can't vouch for it myself...yet.

If you want to tackle a full resto in 3 months you best be prepared. Think about every bolt in the car and try to imagine building it up after paint. You tend to miss a lot on such a project if it's the first.
Bag and tag everything, twice, take a million pictures, not just to show them off but for a memory jump a few months later.
Believe me, you won't remember where that white funny looking plastic thing goes and then it's time to hit the books again 

[TylerCharger69]

Thanks!!!   While the "tearing down" process is going.....3 of us are going to dismantle, while the other two are categorizing everything and putting the screw/bolts/bushings/nuts with said component...along with pictures.  While the body is being done....components such as front-end-rear end, engine, tranny,  k-frame  and all that will be powder coated or painted so that they will be ready for installation after the paint is applied.  The grille will be cleaned   and other components that need this  will be done  and ready for re-assembly.  The only problem I see with the car so far  is  where the door striker is....it's got a crack in the metal, but Mopar Action did a step-by-step article on the fix and it's relatively easy.   Yes...this will be a daily driver...as I drive it 1000 plus miles a week.  We've been planning the process for over a year now, and I think we have all of our ducks in a row.  Between the 5 of us.....we should have the tear-down done in a day or two.   As far as the brake lines having overspray.....well....it's more than overspray...they are practically "buried" in the undercoating.   It looks like they used wa-a-ay too much!!!  Must weigh a lot!!!   I'm going to look into the dry-ice theory as it's very cheap here.    Keep the input coming!!!

[Troy]

You can purchase rotisseries from Auto Twirler, Accessible Systems, WhirlyJig, and US Car Tool. US Car Tool also sells a "kit" which includes all the pieces except the long metal bars which you can purchase locally. I think all of them have eBay stores and web sites. Search on this site as well and you'll find a thread or two with links to plans. I don't have any of my links here at work.

Troy

[Charger-Bodie]

as for removing the undercoating , we rent a large const air compressor and a commercial blaster when we do it it comes off nice and you dont end up gouging the metal any reason why you are going to reunder coat it ...i personally would paint it body color

[TylerCharger69]

It's going to be painted as well.....but  I also need to undercoat because living on the gulf coast.....rust is an extremely serious issue here due to the fact that this is a daily driver....so.....paint  plus undercoat should create one helluva barrier!!!

[hemi-hampton]

The best Rotisserie I ever used are made from a Company in South Carolina, ROTO-Rotisserie or something like that. Anything else is garbage in my opinion. LEON.

[BLACKWOLF]

www.autotwirler.com . they are in indiana. their unit has roller bearing in the rotators, u can roll a car with 1 finger. they had a 68 camaro on one at goodguys at kansas speedway.

[Daytona R/T SE]

Here's where I got mine:

http://whirlyjig.com/

[Doc74]

Thanks!!!   While the "tearing down" process is going.....3 of us are going to dismantle, while the other two are categorizing everything and putting the screw/bolts/bushings/nuts with said component...along with pictures.  While the body is being done....components such as front-end-rear end, engine, tranny,  k-frame  and all that will be powder coated or painted so that they will be ready for installation after the paint is applied.  The grille will be cleaned   and other components that need this  will be done  and ready for re-assembly.  The only problem I see with the car so far  is  where the door striker is....it's got a crack in the metal, but Mopar Action did a step-by-step article on the fix and it's relatively easy.   Yes...this will be a daily driver...as I drive it 1000 plus miles a week.  We've been planning the process for over a year now, and I think we have all of our ducks in a row.  Between the 5 of us.....we should have the tear-down done in a day or two.   As far as the brake lines having overspray.....well....it's more than overspray...they are practically "buried" in the undercoating.   It looks like they used wa-a-ay too much!!!  Must weigh a lot!!!   I'm going to look into the dry-ice theory as it's very cheap here.    Keep the input coming!!!

Yeah you guys are going the right way, you planned this well, I like 
The door striker area is a problem area on many cars and they're not all old, it's indeed an easy fix so I wouldn't worry about it much.

Depending on the condition of your brake lines they might need replacement in which case I'd go over it quickly with a wire brush or the likes and have a new set made or maybe you can order them in a set, I have no idea about that really....
If you need to reuse them then take a sharp knife and peel that undercoat skin off, once it's thin you can clean it with a strong thinner.

Cool a driving charger, my favorite 
Undercoating is a must as you know and there's very good brands out there so you'll only have to choose which texture you want it to have. Some are really coarse and others are more smooth which looks better if you color the underside afterwards.
You can thin undercoating and use a different paint gun to lay it on smooth but you'll need more material to get to the right thickness and it will cost. Good undercoating is not cheap and you'll need plenty so shop around.
I'm hearing good things about this one but I cant vouch for them.      http://www.lizardskin.com/

Another very important product you'll need is a cavity wax, you won't need that until after paint but calculate it in, you're gonna need barrels of the stuff 

A good wax, like dinitrol, stays liquid for a while enabling it to run into every nook and cranny before it sets, sort of like candle wax.
I also use it between paint and bolt on parts like emblems, trim, mirrors or even the gas cap.

For insulation inside the car I'd talk to NorwayCharger, you can't do much better than he did. I think he made his cabin fireproof ! 

When the bodywork is done and you're ready for primer, be sure to check allignement of all the panels and the trim beforehand.

The last thing you want is the lower corner of the door not alligning nicely or that new repro gas cap sitting a bit high AFTER you painted, cut and bufffed. So when you primer everything, be sure everything fits as it should. If you want to make it really nice you'll have to do more than restore, the factory allignements were not always that great so there's room for improvement. I rarely see the lower door corner even with the body and it would be an easy fix when you have it on the rotisserie.

Dammit I can't wait to start my own now

[Mopar Madness]

 Go to www.eastwood.com right now they have a sale going on their Rotisseries.

  We bought our from www.accessiblesystems.com    $1,600 for a Hydraulic Lifting type on 10" casters that are designed to roll on concrete or on a gravel surface just as easy. They have the Brace Kit you bolt to your pillars for $350 that keeps the body from flexing when you do major surgery, they stock Body Dolly's/Carts , rear axle dollys for easy removal and rolling around the shop.
They are located in Tenn, if you go by their shop they have a Complete Charger mounted on their Bottoms Up Rotisserie where it can be seen from the road...

[TylerCharger69]

Doc 74...I'm using the same cas cap assembly  as with most of the parts on the car, which are all  still in exceptional shape.    Yes...It's a General Lee replica,  but the difference is  I'm going to put all the badging back on...i.e.  sail panel, grille, and tail panel badging.   A few different things done with the interior also.   Plus...the trim around where the vinyl top used to be will be put back on along with the "check mark" chrome.   I just think it looks better with the badging.   It's not an R/T  car....so don't anyone worry.....I'm not going to pass it off as one.

[BlueSS454]

I built a rotisserie.  So far I have had 2 Chevelles, a Jaguar, a Cuda, and a Charger on it.  Here is a pic of the Charger on it:

[Charger-Bodie]

heres ours with my car on it ,its also homemade but it works very well

[TylerCharger69]

It looks like all I really need to build one is square tubing  for the center to connect end to end...with holes to make it somewhat adjustable as with the legs on each end....some heavy duty engine stand parts,  a couple of good hydraulic bottle jacks for each end and a few more adjustable parts for mounting.   Am I missing anything?

[Charger-Bodie]

It looks like all I really need to build one is square tubing  for the center to connect end to end...with holes to make it somewhat adjustable as with the legs on each end....some heavy duty engine stand parts,  a couple of good hydraulic bottle jacks for each end and a few more adjustable parts for mounting.   Am I missing anything?

the square tubing that goes from end to end has grub bolts like set screws to keep it tight and also to raise it up and down we welded a large washer on the movile part and use a comealong it works good and you never have any oily jacks neer the car to cause fish eyes

[TylerCharger69]

That's a very good point about the fisheye!!!

[gremlinsteve]

any one got plans for a home made setup like would like to part with?

steve

[BlueSS454]

Here is a link that a one of the guys on the Chevelle Site put up on his personal web site.  It's a how to on building a rotisserie.  There will obviously be some modifying to mount the Charger on it, mainly the overall length of the rotisserie, but this is a basic how to build one.

http://www.prostreetcar.com/body_rotisserie.html