69 Charger Leaf Spring Replacement

[koshe]

I have never replaced leaf springs before. As I look at the rear attachment. It looks easy enough. But the front has me scratching my head.
Hows does the leaf spring come off the in front of the axle? Any hints/cheats would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!! Jim

[bill440rt]

Jim, stick your head in FRONT of the leaf spring hanger. See these 4 nuts? You need to loosen them, that will drop the front. Then you can take out the large bolt & nut & remove the hanger from the old spring.

Do yourself a favor & spray everything with WD-40 or similar. Let it sit overnight if you have to. Support the car by the framerails. Start at the rear shackle, support the rear with a floor jack. Loosen & remove the shackles first, you may have to play with the jack a little up & down to remove them, it's a little tricky. Then, drop the rear with the floor jack & remove the front hangers. Pull the rear axle out as an assembly out the back of the car. Reverse these steps to reassemble.

[Chryco Psycho]

use a Real penetraing fluid , wd40 is not a good choice , , generally the front Eye bolt is siezed in place & needs to be cut off & replaced

[Shakey]

use a Real penetraing fluid , wd40 is not a good choice , , generally the front Eye bolt is siezed in place & needs to be cut off & replaced

Chryco, can you suggest what other product to use rather than WD40?

What is your preference?

[Plumcrazy]

Mopar's rust penetrant works well

[BrianShaughnessy]

use a Real penetraing fluid , wd40 is not a good choice , , generally the front Eye bolt is siezed in place & needs to be cut off & replaced

Chryco, can you suggest what other product to use rather than WD40?

What is your preference?

I'm not CP but I drove past a Holiday Inn express this morning... 

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

PB is good stuff

I also recommend doing 1 side at a time

[Shakey]

PB is good stuff

I also recommend doing 1 side at a time

Why?

[koshe]

Great!!! Thanks for all the tips!

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

PB is good stuff

I also recommend doing 1 side at a time

Why?

Makes it easier to align/hold up the rear...less chance of tearing brake lines, dropping rears etc.....

[Shakey]

PB is good stuff

I also recommend doing 1 side at a time

Makes it easier to align/hold up the rear...less chance of tearing brake lines, dropping rears etc.....

Why?

I get it.  I guess I just assumed if someone was going to replace the leaf springs, the way I look at it, you might as well remove the rear differential, rebuild and restore it and replace all the brake lines / cables at the same time.  But hey, that's just me!   

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Nope...it aint just you

[TylerCharger69]

When replacing rear leaf springs....don't you need to also purchase the new front hangers  as the leafs are a bit different?

[deputycrawford]

Tyler. You should not have to buy new hangers unless you are buying the super stock springs. The hangers for SS springs are longer. If just getting R/T springs then mount in the hanger and start burnies. BURNIES ARE A MUST.  Oh, wait, you didn't hear that from me.

[TylerCharger69]

Oh...I just know that the set I got from PST  said they required new front hangars....It's not an R/T  just a base model.   I bought them thinking there were differences.....

[Steve P.]

I just installed my SS springs tonight. It took about 45 minutes per side. (I have a bad back).. About 30 years ago I made a living doing this. Tough job if you are working on Northern rust buckets all day..

I do it with 2 sets of jack stands and a floor jack. I start with jacking up the rear from under the pumpkin. Then take a tall set of stands and set them under the frame at the rear of the car. I put it up as high as I can.

Then lower the rear end onto a short set of stands. I set the stands about an inch higher than the rear will drop and hang.

Next I remove the lower shock bolt.  (I DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME)..

Then I use a high speed air motor with a wire wheel on it to clean all the u-bolt threads. (When I did this for a living I cut the U-bolts off with a torch). Yes, I did light up a few back seats of those rusted out piles of shiP......

Next comes the PB BLASTER. Hit all the treads you can. This will save your ass...

Then I move the floor jack under the back half of the leaf spring just behind the axle and pull the nuts off the u-bolts.

Then remove the rear shackle nuts and pry the shackle out of the spring and the frame rubbers.

Then you can either remove the 4 nuts on the front side of the front perch or just the forward eye bolt.
Lower the jack and remove the spring.

Going back in is just the reverse.

Some jockeying of the jack is normal.

Replace your bushings.

Make sure when you are putting it back together you hold the u-bolts together over the top of the axle. The shock plate and the spring itself will keep you in line as long as you just pinch them together..

Make sure you torque the nuts on the u-bolts. Over tightening them will warp your shock plate and can dent your axle housing.

Also, any parts you are going to reuse, make sure you clean them up while they are out.


Good luck.............