Almost lost Dana (my C500) last night, fixed her, video and pic update; pg.3

[69_500]

Glad to hear it wasn't terribly bad. Makes me note that I need to do some work on my 500 now too though.

[69_500]

Did you have an aftermarkety alternator on the car? Just curious? I put a new alternator on the 500 this summer, and whenever I drive it the amp meter is pegged out. Just curious if this is the same situation that you had? If so I want to remedy it before the same thing happens. Know what I mean.

[Ghoste]

Danny, is it a single or dual field alt?

[69_500]

single.

short and sweet answers tonight.

[hemi68charger]

Did you have an aftermarkety alternator on the car? Just curious? I put a new alternator on the 500 this summer, and whenever I drive it the amp meter is pegged out. Just curious if this is the same situation that you had? If so I want to remedy it before the same thing happens. Know what I mean.

Danny..
The alternator I had was a remanufactered version from my local auto parts store, single field.... My alt. gauge pegged negative just before it blew.. So, if it's up for the winter, you may wanna take the advise others are giving me and do something.. I'm calling http://www.redlinegaugeworks.com/ tomorrow to talk to them about there conversions of the alt. gauge to a voltmeter using the same face...... I have a few extra alt. gauges to do this with...........

Troy

[Ghoste]

Sorry for the thread hijack but since it's related and we don't want it to become a "me too" thread, when was the last time you cleaned the terminals in the bulkhead connector?

[hemi68charger]

Sorry for the thread hijack but since it's related and we don't want it to become a "me too" thread, when was the last time you cleaned the terminals in the bulkhead connector?

Thoroughly about 2 years ago... I'm real anal about that spot.. Now that I'm learning more about it all, I'm starting to think my amp gauge met it's maker and there was nothing I could have done to avoid it.......

[charger Downunder]

I always have my negative lead to the battery on hand tight so its easy to pull of plus i carry a spanner for the battery terminal just in case its needed.Glad you and the car are fine it could of ended up heeps worth .

[hemi68charger]

Just got off the phone with redline and it's $100 for the conversion.. You use your gauge and the original face.. You have to send off minimally your instrument cluster with the circuit board and gauge...  I'll send off one here probably after the holidays... I guess I'll get to ripping into Dana now... NO CHARGER TO DRIVE !!!!!!   

Troy

[nascarxx29]

Actually you can still start it up If you have to .And move around a car with no cluster in the car as I done before pictured below.Join the 2 amp gauge wires together with a nut and bolt and tape it up.This completes the circuit and also by passes the amp gauge.

[hemi68charger]

Actually you can still start it up If you have to .And move around a car with no cluster in the car as I done before pictured below.Join the 2 amp gauge wires together with a nut and bolt and tape it up.This completes the circuit and also by passes the amp gauge.

Yeap, I know that Dave.......... Unfortunately, the damage to the harnesses is pretty bad. I'm not taking any more chances.. She'll be nice and comfy in the garage until I get her going again..........

Thanks for the suggestion though...........

Troy

[nascarxx29]

Sounds good I think MH makes a nice rally dash repo wiring harness.I used to get mine out of junkyard chargers.Now you can get one from aftermarket somewhere around $489.00 last I heard

[nascarxx29]

http://www.wiringharness.com/

[62 Max]

For whats under the hood you can't do any better.Quality and price.

http://evanswiring.tripod.com/index.html

[nascarxx29]

I had gotten a 70 b body engine harness from Bill & Rose Evan.With the electronic ignition incorporated.Was nice not to have to splice the harness that came with the DC ignition distributor kit

[hemi68charger]

http://www.wiringharness.com/

Dave,
These guys only sell via YearOne... From what I know they don't sell to John-Q public... They do come with a great reputation though.....

Troy

[hemi68charger]

For whats under the hood you can't do any better.Quality and price.

http://evanswiring.tripod.com/index.html

I might check these guys out.. Thanks for the link........ I'm keeping the original dual-point distributor in Dana......

Troy

[nascarxx29]

I know a guy from my area thats in the non mopar wiring aftermarket.If I needed anything electrical. stuff that may work on a mopar.You can also go petronix and loose the points in the prestolite dist.I have a bucket full of these prestolite distributors.All have shaft play causes point variation

http://www.americanautowire.com/

[PocketThunder]

I rewired my entire 68 with the ZZ-20 harness from www.itsasnapwireandcable.com but it took me several months of nights and weekends and it was a pain in the ass.  I'll spend the $$$ next time and buy one already done exactly for Chargers.  But it was a learning experience.  This harness is more set up for rewiring a street rod with a sbc.

[nascarxx29]

Sound like one of those painless wiring kits .Its universal has modern little plug in fuses.But you got alot of extra length to shorten route and tape up

[TruckDriver]

Your lucky man. I would of been devestated if I lost that thing!

No kidding I love that car.

[duo-stripe]

T... I am glad things worked out allright....
Good luck with fixin' things!

Grtz Marcel

[Aero426]

Just got off the phone with redline and it's $100 for the conversion.. You use your gauge and the original face.. You have to send off minimally your instrument cluster with the circuit board and gauge...  I'll send off one here probably after the holidays... I guess I'll get to ripping into Dana now... NO CHARGER TO DRIVE !!!!!!   

Troy

Troy, what exactly does the conversion actually do?   I'm under the assumption it prevents all those amps from directly flowing through the ammeter?

[hemi68charger]

Just got off the phone with redline and it's $100 for the conversion.. You use your gauge and the original face.. You have to send off minimally your instrument cluster with the circuit board and gauge...  I'll send off one here probably after the holidays... I guess I'll get to ripping into Dana now... NO CHARGER TO DRIVE !!!!!!   

Troy

Troy, what exactly does the conversion actually do?   I'm under the assumption it prevents all those amps from directly flowing through the ammeter?

Doug,
I'm not exactly sure, but they do want the instrument cluster frame with the circuit board attached and of course, the amp gauge to be converted.. I'm assuming they will be putting volt-meter "mechanical hardware" in lew of the original amp hardware behind the gauge and then feeding off the 12V input to the voltage limiter..  You take your red and black wires that originally went to the amp gauge and connect them and heat shrink for protection, thus completing the circuit. The original gauge wire I believe can handle the amperage, it's the OEM amp gauge itself that gets old and can't handle it.. Them claim that the gauge maintains it's original look, including needle..........

Troy

[Dodge Don]

Check out Mopar Collectors Guide June 2006. They have a whole article on dash fires and the culprit is always the ammeter getting fried. They cover how Redline Gauge Works does conversions to German VDO voltmeters that look stock but are more accurate and eliminate the risk of fires.