Nitrous Oxide?

[Arkgl01]

I want to put a nice Nitrous Oxide kit on my 440. Dont want anything madjor just a 100 shot for the drag strip. What is a good safe kit and what would you recommend?

Mark

[68chargerboy]

the best nitrous setup is non at all.  if you want more power put in a stroker kit or something in that nature.  i have first hand seen a piston rod go through a block.  in my mind its not worth the risk. 

                                        Zach

[Chryco Psycho]

make SURE you have adequate fuel supply running lean will take out an engine so fast !!!

[73chargercali]

i'm running edelbrocks performer rpm nitrous kit its adjustable from 100-250 hp levels. i personally belive its the best packaged deal, i only paid approx $450 for it and it makes great horsepower levels. it knocked 2.5 seconds off my quarter mile time putting me in the high 13's. i'm running a unrebuilt 440 with a eddy 440 torker intake and eddy 750 cfm carb, all in a 4000 pound car. the kit was easy to install in 5 hours.

just undershoot the power level; if you are sure the car can take 150 shot, just use the 100hp setting. on stock cast pistons it causes lots of fatigue and on cast cranks it can cause problems.

i would only recommend nitrous if your engine is a forged piston, forged crank setup, with a good enough transmission. just remember only spray from 2000rpm and higher, any less and you can blow off your intake.

[Arkgl01]

Planning on just a 50 shot and see how the motor does. I will have it where you must be full throttle to hit it. I really want it for looks and a cool purge kit.

[Steve P.]

I really want it for looks and a cool purge kit.

What's next, a pair of fart cans??   

[TylerCharger69]

Just my 2 cents....but...why should a Mopar need nitrous anyway?  Stroke it!!

[konigcharger]

leave the nitrous for the cars that really need it

honda's

[Silver R/T]

supercharge it

[Wakko]

Pull that silly 440 and put in a Skyline motor! 

[moparguy01]

nitrous can be a fun addition to your car, but you gotta make damn sure you have adequate fuel, and high enough octane fuel. if not, BOOM!
i ran a 100 HP NOS kit in my 85 mercury grand marquis back in high school. and it didnt hurt it, that was a mildly built 302.

i wouldnt run over a 100 HP shot if you dont have a dedicated nitrous fuel system (seperate pump and line to the engine from a secondary fuel tank) and I would also want forged pistons, forged crank, etc if i was running more than that. Which is exactly whats in my 440.

[THE CHARGER PUNK]

isnt your car a real general lee?

[Challenger340]

Anybody wanna see pictures of what a 1600 hp, Nitrous 632 Chebby, looks like internally, when it goes "lean" on the "steroids" ?

tehehehe !

I think it's a "hoot', cause I gets paid to fix it !

Frigg'in 'roids !

[Arkgl01]

Yes it is. I am doing it mostly for show. It can always be pulled off. http://www.scotleaidolrods.com/originalgl1.htm

[Lostsheep]

You know.....just follow the directions on the spray and you should be fine. I would recommend an NX kit, and make sure your fuel pressure is adequate, plus have an aftermarket ignition source. I wouldn't recommend the WOT switch, make it a manual switch you gotta push. I've had several street cars with over a 200 shot and they did great!!! Colder plugs, great spark, retarded timing, forged parts and a good kit you'll be flyin in no time.

[Mefirst]

Lostsheep***

Why would you not recommend a WOT switch for Nitrous use? The reason you do use one is that you wont accidentally push the Nitrous button when your engine turning low rews. Squirting Nitrous into an engine at low rews is a good way to have an engine go BOOM!! Nitrous is to be used only at high rews.

Another thing is that when using a WOT switch, you wont have to fiddle around pushing any buttons, you can concentrate on driving and keeping your eyes on the track/street. Then again I do understand using a push button, if you have a 2 Stage Nitrous system, the push button activates the 2;nd stage, but you still use a WOT switch that is the only switch to activate the Nitrous system...

My

[Lostsheep]

Well my thing with the WOT switches on a single stage system is its a bit unpredictable on the street. I have seen more than a few guys pop their intakes off with WOT switches. But if you start spinning on the bottle how do you stop?.....by quickly pulling your foot of the gas and nitrous giving the gases no where to go, I know its not a serious as a top fuel car but thats my best comparison to when they hydraulic a motor from pedaling it. With a hand held switch you can start spinning and come off the button till you hook again all the time maintain full throttle. I know with the duel stage kits you kinna have to have at least one on a WOT. But the WOT switch can get engaged at just as low of and RPM as a hand held switch. Just preference/my experiences I guess.

[hutch]

I always hear that NOS and Superchargers will cause you to rebuild your engine every so many times you use them.  They burn out your valves, rings, pistons, ect... Is any of this true or all just myth?  Can you have one on your car and setup where it gives you a kick but does not hurt your motor?  I went with just a cold air kit and felt good about what it gave me but now I think I want more.

it took me 30 min to type this.

[Lostsheep]

Well there is truth to it, but its all in how its used. If your always pushing the motor then its gonna wear out more quickly. Turbos, superchargers, and NOS due add a great deal more cylinder pressure, but thats what makes power and them very useful.

[deputycrawford]

All throttle, No bottle. 512 cubes solves many things.

[Lostsheep]

Im a run whatcha brung kind of guy....If you brought more, you win.

[rob9593]

All throttle, No bottle. 512 cubes solves many things.

Nothing wrong with both....I'm going to be running a 505 stroker, and touch it with the bottle occasionally.... whether I'll ever hook up that much power is another question.... my 505 made 700HP on a stingy dyno naturally aspirated on 91 pump gas...

I'll be using a WOT throttle switch along with a manual switch to engage the system......it'll be used very sparingly as insurance just to make sure I've most likely brought more than the next guy in the other lane

[aifilaw]

I always hear that NOS and Superchargers will cause you to rebuild your engine every so many times you use them.  They burn out your valves, rings, pistons, ect... Is any of this true or all just myth?  Can you have one on your car and setup where it gives you a kick but does not hurt your motor?  I went with just a cold air kit and felt good about what it gave me but now I think I want more.

it took me 30 min to type this.

since no one else has properly answered this question....

Nitrous, just like other power adders adds wear and tear to your engine, just like a cam change, headers, intake, et cetera do...it just adds more, faster, for less work, and less money.

Depending on how you build your baseline (in this case bottom end), or how it is stock, will depend on what you can do to it and how long it will run afterwards.

People who burn out valves, melt pistons, et cetera do things like run too high of a shot of nitrous in a car that isn't meant too...they slap a 150 dry kit onto a 350 chevy and expect it to last forever, what they get is a rude awakening on their 10th pull.

People who have nitrous in their minds when they build their engine have no problems, or those who run a realistic level... for example, there are guys in STOCK LT1's and LS1's who run a 100 we shot and have put dozens of bottles through their cars, have over 100k miles and virtually no wear...why? because they do it right. You can do the same thing on any engine, just keep things realistic, ensure that your timing is retarded when running nitrous to take full effect of its power adding, and ensure that you have certain fuel flow for the nitrous...that's why wet kits and nitrous nannies are the best thing to have, they may cost more, but they are worth it.

That being said, a 440 stock block with stock everything should have no problem running a 100 shot all day every day as long as you tune it correctly. put in forged pistons, hardened valve seats, good valves, steel crank, decent rods, and you should have absolutely not problem running a 200+ shot of nitrous all day at the track for more than a season, or pass a dozen bottles through it as a daily driver with no wear and tear to your engine.


People who don't like nitrous, and profess cubes, have their own opinion...if you like having power there all the time, go for it. Some people like poweron demand, and others like to be able to turn it on and off....it's nice getting 5mpg better and making the same HP and TQ 90% of the driving you do by running nitrous instead of forced induction or large cubes.

[Bandit4142]

I always hear that NOS and Superchargers will cause you to rebuild your engine every so many times you use them.  They burn out your valves, rings, pistons, ect... Is any of this true or all just myth?  Can you have one on your car and setup where it gives you a kick but does not hurt your motor?  I went with just a cold air kit and felt good about what it gave me but now I think I want more.

it took me 30 min to type this.

since no one else has properly answered this question....

Nitrous, just like other power adders adds wear and tear to your engine, just like a cam change, headers, intake, et cetera do...it just adds more, faster, for less work, and less money.

Depending on how you build your baseline (in this case bottom end), or how it is stock, will depend on what you can do to it and how long it will run afterwards.

People who burn out valves, melt pistons, et cetera do things like run too high of a shot of nitrous in a car that isn't meant too...they slap a 150 dry kit onto a 350 chevy and expect it to last forever, what they get is a rude awakening on their 10th pull.

People who have nitrous in their minds when they build their engine have no problems, or those who run a realistic level... for example, there are guys in STOCK LT1's and LS1's who run a 100 we shot and have put dozens of bottles through their cars, have over 100k miles and virtually no wear...why? because they do it right. You can do the same thing on any engine, just keep things realistic, ensure that your timing is advanced when running nitrous to take full effect of its power adding, and ensure that you have certain fuel flow for the nitrous...that's why wet kits and nitrous nannies are the best thing to have, they may cost more, but they are worth it.

That being said, a 440 stock block with stock everything should have no problem running a 100 shot all day every day as long as you tune it correctly. put in forged pistons, hardened valve seats, good valves, steel crank, decent rods, and you should have absolutely not problem running a 200+ shot of nitrous all day at the track for more than a season, or pass a dozen bottles through it as a daily driver with no wear and tear to your engine.


People who don't like nitrous, and profess cubes, have their own opinion...if you like having power there all the time, go for it. Some people like poweron demand, and others like to be able to turn it on and off....it's nice getting 5mpg better and making the same HP and TQ 90% of the driving you do by running nitrous instead of forced induction or large cubes.

Very, very well put.   

[Lostsheep]

ensure that your timing is advanced when running nitrous to take full effect of its power adding

Too bad you wanna retard timing for nitrous use.

[aifilaw]

ensure that your timing is advanced when running nitrous to take full effect of its power adding

Too bad you wanna retard timing for nitrous use.

fixed...can't get everything right in 4 paragraphs of rambling....I probable couldn't remember which it is right now, mostly because I don't have time to ponder it.

[Silver R/T]

Id go with wet kit also

[Lostsheep]

I am fond of the wet systems too.

[myrtle]

Alot of good information in here guys,..
Thanks a bunch.
Now where everyone is talking about forged internals,.. does anyone know if the stroker kits from 440source are good enough to handle, lets say, a 150 shot?

[myrtle]

Anyone?

[Beer]

My SB 402 has forged internals, the machine shop says I can easy spray 200-300 shot.

I am having a spare Edelbrock Air Gap intake direct ported with 1/8" NPT NX wet nozzles (fit tested last month). 

I have been dabbling with Nitrous on my Vette (LS1) and learned a lot.

Consistant bottle pressure is a must for correct AFR (Purge is not for show, its to get the air out of the line and lower the bottle pressure if your heater took the pressure a lil high).
Use a Window Switch, and dont spray below 3000 RPM
WOT is a must
Colder Plugs are needed.
Larger the shot, the more timing needs to be pulled

Beer

[GTX]

Juice is nice but I'd rather be blown! 

......just costs a whole lot more.


I'm old school and think nitrous is a cheap crutch and mostly for the import crowd and would rather stroke before juicing but to each his own.
Best yet, stroked and blown and then injected for added measure. Wasn't Tom doing that?

[Ex President]

People who don't like nitrous, and profess cubes, have their own opinion...if you like having power there all the time, go for it. Some people like poweron demand, and others like to be able to turn it on and off....it's nice getting 5mpg better and making the same HP and TQ 90% of the driving you do by running nitrous instead of forced induction or large cubes.

Word....

Good response to a complex question.

[Challenger340]

My SB 402 has forged internals, the machine shop says I can easy spray 200-300 shot.

Beer,
just a thought, but, be careful closer to the 300 mark as to how much top ring endgap you have, gets real "iffy" less then .026" if the fuel side isn't perfect.
Lotsa guys start spraying down the detonation with the fuel curve thereabouts, and extra timing retard, just to be safe, or, "if" you're not sure of the top ring gap.