What's wrong with this picture????

[Mfr426]

Hello all, long time no post. I'm having some issues with my car kicking in the second 2v on hard throttle. The kickdown linkage and throttle cable appear to be offset and I've looked at this many times and cant figure out what is wrong. This is a 383 with a Carter 4V carb.

Thanks for any help.

Mike R in Reading PA
69 Charger SE

[Ghoste]

Mike, although it does appear offset, there is no visible binding in the pic.  When you say the four barrel is kicking in, are you certain it is that?  I only ask because sometimes people describe the kicking down into second gear as the the four barrel opening and I'm not trying to be patronizing with the question.  It's only because I don't know you.
If it is in fact staying in the same gear, and what you are describing is the four barrel opening, normally, you shouldn't feel the other two barrels tip in unless they are coming in too soon and what you actually are feeling is that point where the engine can finally begin to move after a slight hesitation.  This isn't usually a problem with those Eddycarter carbs as the AFB style air valve is more likely to be too slow than too fast coming in.

[hemi68charger]

Can you get rid of that adaptor bracket ?

[Ghoste]

You know, I will have tyo go out to the shop and look at the Eddy AFB I have because I don't think it was offset like that on my 383.

[is_it_EVER_done?]

You definitely need to fix that as the torque of the motor increases the angle and can easily cause a stuck open throttle.

The fix is simple and crude. First, you need to bend the bracket towards the drivers fender until the kickdown part is straight (a hammer gently used works great). If the bottom of the bracket hits the manifold before the kickdown is straight, you can grind the bottom a bit, or put an extra washer underneath the assembly.

After you get the kickdown nice and straight, you need to remove the "clamp" that holds the throttle cable to the bracket, and place the cable on the other side of the stud (drivers side of the stud instead of the passenger side). Place the clamp back on (rotated 180 degrees) and see if it fits down good, but usually the clamp part will need a little grinding to fit down nice while clamping the cable.

This is common "fitment" procedures with a taller manifold, different carburetor, a small block kickdown/throttle bracket on a big block, or even different years of the same thing. Just use your eyes (and brain) to get it right.

Just don't use the car the way it is or you can find out just how much torque (and how inadequate brakes are against said torque), that an engine can produce at wide open throttle!

[Mfr426]

Hey guys, thanks for the speedy responses! No offense taken on the question about the kickdown vs the 4v and which it actually is. I know the kickdown works as it drops right down to the correct gear at full throttle. The opening other 2v is an issue as I can actually push the throttle linkage further back (more open) even when the pedal is to the floor. So, I'm missing out on that extra travel and perhaps that is causing the secondaries to NOT open as they should.

That throttle adapter is for mopar motors and needed unfortunately from Carter. The link up will not work without it.

Is it after I think you have it right on. I've had this thing apart many times and that is the only conclusion I can come up with (bending the stock bracket).  Moving the cable hold down bracket and putting the cable on the other side is what I thought would work too. The odd part is that this is a stock manifold and stock bracket so I cant see why it should need any adjustment.

Tomorrow I will try bending and grinding the bracket and will post some pics.

Thanks for all your comments!

[Todd Wilson]

I suppose the clamp for the throttle cable has a notch so you cant spin it 180 and clamp. Seems like the spring going back to the throttle pressure linkage doesnt look right to me?!?!


Todd

[Ghoste]

I went to the shop to check mine and sure enough, I took the adaptor off before storing the carb.

[is_it_EVER_done?]

You shouldn't need to bend and grind.  I know I ran mine as it came out of the package.

Ghoste. Did you see his pictures? he has a problem that can be exceptionally dangerous, particularly when the engine torques over. He is very astute in realizing that this needs to be FIXED! Are you suggesting that he should leave it this way???

The B series engine has existed for over 45 years and has used many variations of the same parts. Throw all the small block parts that can be adapted, then toss in the factory replacement/aftermarket parts, and you have possible permeations that number into the hundreds.

This problem is not at all uncommon and can be easily addressed. The alternative is a dangerous setup than could be lethal to the user or others. Would you STILL suggest that he run it as is?

I certainly don't intend any offence to you, but I am stunned when anyone suggests that someone should not address a problem just because it's not supposed to be there.


Mfr426,  fix your problem. It's easy. --- I know (as do you), that it's not supposed to be there, but it is, so I applaud your resolve to fix it. All of us that share the road - and/or - drag strip with you, thank you!

[Mfr426]

Hey thanks all. Fortunatley I have (2) throttle brackts so I will try to modify one to get everything lined up correctly.

I have a feeling that the suggestion of using a washer below the adapter will help to align the kickdown and the throttle cable. Perhaps a "manual adjustment" will take care of the rest.

I do remember looking at all the chargers at Carlisle this summer and they all lined up correctly (kickdown was parallel to the valve cover) so clearly there is an issue.

I'll let all know.

Thanks!

[Ghoste]

Which is why my post was changed.  You must have been quoting me before I had the change up.  I thought we were still talking about the adaptor not the bracket at the back of the intake. 
I will add though that even though I agree that the bracket in question is wrong and should be changed, where does the bindup occur when the engine torques over?  The throttle pressure linkage is attached at each to the portion which will torque over (ie, the engine and trans) and the accelerator cable has sufficient slack between the bracket where it is anchored and the firewall where it passes through to the interior.  It is right to fix it but there is as much risk of the throttle sticking open as it sits as there is when the engine is under load. 

[Mfr426]

Hey folks, last night I went out and made a "manual adjustment (read:hammer)" and the bracket did move to the right and allow for better alignment of the kickdown. The cable line up is still a bit off so I might try the washer next.

Thanks again for the help.

Mike R