440 still running hot

[tick68charger]

Never fails when there is a big crowd of people and they want me to get on it. what does my charger do?
fall right on its f***ing face. Like tonight had a get together with some friends, gave some rides when i hit it, it didn't want to go anywhere. I have tried several different things and nothing is really working. If its 60 degrees out no problems , when its 75 and up .  
Here is the problem:
Car runs great until it gets hot. When it gets hot at high rpm it starts to fall on its face. The longer I drive it
the hotter it gets the worse it runs. It runs good up to 1/2 throttle until I kick it down then it doesn't go
any where just stumbles until i let off the gas. The temp gauge bounces a little so i dint have a accurate
reading. But it looks to run up to 190 to 200 then it will bounce up to 220 to 230 then back down to
190 to 200. The coolants not boiling doesn't seem extremely hot(need to get a different gauge). I plugged off the vacuum advance and   played with the timing less advance helped the performance a Little. When i have more advance it runs cooler but when she is fully warmed up 180 to 190 predetination , so I have to back the timing off which helps until the temp starts to rise then more detonation can't find a happy medium.

Motor combo.

I have a 440 hp bored 30 over 915 closed chambered heads, mild port and gasket matched, Holley street
dominator intake, a Holley 850 dbl mechanical 2nd dairies, mopar purple cam shaft 484 lift, hooker
headers 1 7/8 into a 3" collector, headmen 3" x-pipe, 40series flowmasters going into 3 1/2" turn downs just before the rear end. 3000 tci converter, 3.91 gears. a stock water pump and hp carter fuel pump.
b@m trans cooler lines run from trans to radiator to b@m cooler and back to trans. Have electronic ignition conversion kit in, with an accel super coil. Upgraded the charging system to an 80 amp set up.

Things I have tried to cure this heating and vapor lock problem.

1. 3 core 26" radiator from yearone.
2. fan shroud.
3. put a fan spacer on so that the fan is inside the shroud and about 1 1/2" to 2" from radiator.
4. fan is not on backwards it pulls in the air.
5. 16 psi cap
6. 180 degree thermostat
7. electric fan in front of radiator pushing air in along with the stock fan pulling air(you can feel allot of air moving through and across the motor).
8. a 1/2" paper spacer under the carb to help with possible vapor lock.
9. Rapped the fuel line to help with the possible vapor lock.
10. Played with the timing and vacuum advance.
11. royal purple full synthetic oil all the way back to the rearend.
12. Water wetter.

I'm thinking about an aluminum radiator and a high flow water pump. Not sure about my gasket under the intake if it blocks the heat transfer in the heads if not i will replace it with one that will. Also might get an MSD box. This will cost some $$ and want to spend my $ on what will work don't want to wast $.

Has anyone had this problem? and what did you do to fix it.

[firefighter3931]

Things i would change:

(1) Milidon HV water pump/Milidon high flow thermostat
(2) MP viscious fan package with clutch
(3) Felpro 1215 intake gasket
(4) Bypass the rad and use the external cooler only....B&M stacked plate design are the best.

Ron

[tick68charger]

thanks firefighter i will start there.

[charger72]

I kinda had the same thing on a 65' chevy dump truck, but the lower radiator hose collapsed. You also might change the waterpump like Firefighter said. Had one on a 318 and it keep over heating, so I put a new one on it, but it was bad also and couldnt hear any noice from it.

[1970440RT]

Ron, are the Milodon pieces available through Summit?  The tech guy on the phone could not tell me if he had the thermostat, or could get it.  ( The tech guy sounded new )

[cudaken]

 If it can not be the be the problem it will be!

I would look at the simple stuff first and easy to rule out just because it can't be.

Replace the hoses
Un crook the header, and that is fun anyway
Replaces the Carb gasket
Move the fan with in 1/2 to 3/4 from the radiator
Tigthen up the water pump belt
If the belt as oil on it replace's
Change the Thermastaict

I won't go into details. will take 2 hours to miss spell. But these are thing's I knew could not be wrong that fooled me. I have 33 years and 400,000's behinde a big block Mopar and all of the above have fooled me after count less $ throw at the wrong part.

I would try the Carb gasket (I know can't be that) and un crocking the exhaust ( I know, can't be that either) but what the heck.

If the water pump is old, there is a out side chances it might be it. Never seen a impeller slip on the shaft but heard of it.

Carb geasket caused me to spend $400.00 in 1972, exhaust caused my 68 Road Runner to basiley sit for 10 year's. I knew it was not the exhaust.

Check header tubes, see if they have been crushed.

                                      OK, I will shut up. Cuda Ken

On the Carb gasket, I am not slurring about a vacume leak either. Sure sound's like what happen to my Runner a long time ago.

[firefighter3931]

Ron, are the Milodon pieces available through Summit?   The tech guy on the phone could not tell me if he had the thermostat, or could get it.   ( The tech guy sounded new )

Yes, those parts are available through summit....check the online catalog. I purchased both of these parts there.

Ron

[BigBlockSam]

i had A SIMULIAR PROBLEM WITH MY ROD AND THE ONLY THING THAT CURED IT WAS CHANGING TO AN aluminum radiator

[tick68charger]

If it can not be the be the problem it will be!

I would look at the simple stuff first and easy to rule out just because it can't be.

Replace the hoses
Un crook the header, and that is fun anyway
Replaces the Carb gasket
Move the fan with in 1/2 to 3/4 from the radiator
Tigthen up the water pump belt
If the belt as oil on it replace's
Change the Thermastaict

I won't go into details. will take 2 hours to miss spell. But these are thing's I knew could not be wrong that fooled me. I have 33 years and 400,000's behinde a big block Mopar and all of the above have fooled me after count less $ throw at the wrong part.

I would try the Carb gasket (I know can't be that) and un crocking the exhaust ( I know, can't be that either) but what the heck.

If the water pump is old, there is a out side chances it might be it. Never seen a impeller slip on the shaft but heard of it.

Carb geasket caused me to spend $400.00 in 1972, exhaust caused my 68 Road Runner to basiley sit for 10 year's. I knew it was not the exhaust.

Check header tubes, see if they have been crushed.

                                      OK, I will shut up. Cuda Ken

On the Carb gasket, I am not slurring about a vacume leak either. Sure sound's like what happen to my Runner a long time ago.

What is un crocking the exhaust? I think checking the simple things is a good palce to start. Before spending some big $. I have not looked these things over because everything is new. thanks for the help