Serious Stalling Issue on RT

[Bello]

ONE MORE TIME......SCANNER AND LOOK AT DATA.... somethings f'in with your fuel mixture causing the o2 sensors to go all the way to full lean or rich.
O2 codes don't mean o2 is bad ness. Without a scanner like the Snap On Modis, your screwed today.

Cooter thats the problem. they already did that and couldnt find the problem. First they said it was the jet chip so they removed it. then they said it was the pcm then they replaced it and car still not fixed. I spent money on nothing. That's why I began to research it myself. Im going to take it to my buddy and see if he can find it, if not F it, I'll buy a chevy

[c00nhunterjoe]

The hard faults are the heater circuits on all 4 o2 sensors. Has nothing to do with a lean/rich condition. The 2 secondary codes that pop up are directly related to the lack of heater operation.

Did the new pcm you installed get programmed by a mopar dealer?

[Bello]

The hard faults are the heater circuits on all 4 o2 sensors. Has nothing to do with a lean/rich condition. The 2 secondary codes that pop up are directly related to the lack of heater operation.

Did the new pcm you installed get programmed by a mopar dealer?

The new pcm came preprogrammed according to my VIN. I just sent out for a replacement just incase this one is damaged. I understand that the hard faults (o2 sensors) are the problem and need to be fixed. I need to figure out whats causing the low circuit whether its a broken wire somewhere or what since two PCMs gave the same codes. Nobody I took it too could figure it out. for all four to be throwing codes has to be something

[Bello]

UPDATE:

the problem has been fixed.

turns out the bosch sensors I bought and my charger did not get along so I bought 4 OEM sensors and the codes and CEL went away. the car no longer sputters and stalls on start up. Thanks you guys for all your input. I have learned alot

[cudaken]

 

[69wannabe]

I had the same problem with one of my jeep grand cherokee's like I posted earlier, the mopar's only like mopar sensor's which I learned the hard way too!! I had tried a bosh sensor also and had to replace it with an NTK sensor a week later. From what I have been told the mopar sensor's have alot tighter range than the aftermarket sensors sold at your local parts store. Tried a crankshaft sensor for my niece's jeep from the parts store and it started throwing all kind of trouble codes that wasn't there before. Went to dealer and bought a mopar sensor and put it on there and it was fine with no codes at all after that. I'm sure you see this alot Cooter since you work on late model cars on a daily basis from what i've read on here.

[Bello]

I had the same problem with one of my jeep grand cherokee's like I posted earlier, the mopar's only like mopar sensor's which I learned the hard way too!! I had tried a bosh sensor also and had to replace it with an NTK sensor a week later. From what I have been told the mopar sensor's have alot tighter range than the aftermarket sensors sold at your local parts store. Tried a crankshaft sensor for my niece's jeep from the parts store and it started throwing all kind of trouble codes that wasn't there before. Went to dealer and bought a mopar sensor and put it on there and it was fine with no codes at all after that. I'm sure you see this alot Cooter since you work on late model cars on a daily basis from what i've read on here.

this is what i learned from another forum "Turns out that the Bosch sensors were too slow heating up and would cause the transition from open loop to closed loop to be delayed, or not happen at all due to the codes being set. The heat up threshold is ~40 seconds. More than 40 seconds would set a DTC and not allow the fuel system to switch over from open loop to closed loop until much later (or not at all) than the PCM required. "

so NTk heats up in about 7-8 seconds from what i researched. I put this to a test and noticed that with the bosch sensors the car wud sputter then stall right after start up (about a min or so), when I put NTK, no stalling at all. been a few days with no codes and no problems at all.

[69wannabe]

I had the same problem with one of my jeep grand cherokee's like I posted earlier, the mopar's only like mopar sensor's which I learned the hard way too!! I had tried a bosh sensor also and had to replace it with an NTK sensor a week later. From what I have been told the mopar sensor's have alot tighter range than the aftermarket sensors sold at your local parts store. Tried a crankshaft sensor for my niece's jeep from the parts store and it started throwing all kind of trouble codes that wasn't there before. Went to dealer and bought a mopar sensor and put it on there and it was fine with no codes at all after that. I'm sure you see this alot Cooter since you work on late model cars on a daily basis from what i've read on here.

this is what i learned from another forum "Turns out that the Bosch sensors were too slow heating up and would cause the transition from open loop to closed loop to be delayed, or not happen at all due to the codes being set. The heat up threshold is ~40 seconds. More than 40 seconds would set a DTC and not allow the fuel system to switch over from open loop to closed loop until much later (or not at all) than the PCM required. "

so NTk heats up in about 7-8 seconds from what i researched. I put this to a test and noticed that with the bosch sensors the car wud sputter then stall right after start up (about a min or so), when I put NTK, no stalling at all. been a few days with no codes and no problems at all.

I didn't really research the bosh sensors but when I put the NTK sensor on my daughters jeep it was fixed!!! I hate knowing when I got a bad sensor on my late model chrysler product that I have to find a mopar part to fix it with but i'd rather do it once and be done with it. Just glad you got it fixed and no more sputtering!

[Bello]

I had the same problem with one of my jeep grand cherokee's like I posted earlier, the mopar's only like mopar sensor's which I learned the hard way too!! I had tried a bosh sensor also and had to replace it with an NTK sensor a week later. From what I have been told the mopar sensor's have alot tighter range than the aftermarket sensors sold at your local parts store. Tried a crankshaft sensor for my niece's jeep from the parts store and it started throwing all kind of trouble codes that wasn't there before. Went to dealer and bought a mopar sensor and put it on there and it was fine with no codes at all after that. I'm sure you see this alot Cooter since you work on late model cars on a daily basis from what i've read on here.

this is what i learned from another forum "Turns out that the Bosch sensors were too slow heating up and would cause the transition from open loop to closed loop to be delayed, or not happen at all due to the codes being set. The heat up threshold is ~40 seconds. More than 40 seconds would set a DTC and not allow the fuel system to switch over from open loop to closed loop until much later (or not at all) than the PCM required. "

so NTk heats up in about 7-8 seconds from what i researched. I put this to a test and noticed that with the bosch sensors the car wud sputter then stall right after start up (about a min or so), when I put NTK, no stalling at all. been a few days with no codes and no problems at all.

I didn't really research the bosh sensors but when I put the NTK sensor on my daughters jeep it was fixed!!! I hate knowing when I got a bad sensor on my late model chrysler product that I have to find a mopar part to fix it with but i'd rather do it once and be done with it. Just glad you got it fixed and no more sputtering!

im glad too. took a while and a few headaches but im glad i did research it because the dealer could not figure it out...saved me alot of money

[69wannabe]

I am surprised that your dealer didn't tell you about using only mopar parts on your charger. The guys I deal with at my local dealer are friend's of mine and very helpful with advise!! I have a friend that is a mechanic and a friend in the parts dept. too. When I was having trouble with the jeep the parts guy was the one that told me about the aftermarket sensors being a problem on chrylser products. I bought my NTK sensor from rock auto and it was very reasonable from there too. Amazon sells alot of these NTK sensors and actual mopar parts too!!

[Bello]

I am surprised that your dealer didn't tell you about using only mopar parts on your charger. The guys I deal with at my local dealer are friend's of mine and very helpful with advise!! I have a friend that is a mechanic and a friend in the parts dept. too. When I was having trouble with the jeep the parts guy was the one that told me about the aftermarket sensors being a problem on chrylser products. I bought my NTK sensor from rock auto and it was very reasonable from there too. Amazon sells alot of these NTK sensors and actual mopar parts too!!

The dealer told me everything but that. They couldn't even identify the problem. That is why I began researching it myself. Took awhile but glad I did

[Cooter]

Remember, just because the tech at the dealer wears a Mopar shirt, dont mean he/she wasn't working for Wally world last year.
techs get paid commission and many times, no customer wants to pay for the actual time involved in the diagnosis process.
Sometimes, contrary to popular belief, there really is no magic computer that will just tell you everything you need, why you need it, and how to put it on.

Sometimes it takes HOURS of diagnosis time just to find one bad wire. It seems this is now the usual response....
"What? Your gonna charge me how much? Just for one bad wire??"

It aint the monkey that puts the new sensors on your car, its the monkey that tells you WHY you need them....

[Bello]

Remember, just because the tech at the dealer wears a Mopar shirt, dont mean he/she wasn't working for Wally world last year.
techs get paid commission and many times, no customer wants to pay for the actual time involved in the diagnosis process.
Sometimes, contrary to popular belief, there really is no magic computer that will just tell you everything you need, why you need it, and how to put it on.

Sometimes it takes HOURS of diagnosis time just to find one bad wire. It seems this is now the usual response....
"What? Your gonna charge me how much? Just for one bad wire??"

It aint the monkey that puts the new sensors on your car, its the monkey that tells you WHY you need them....

Indeed words of wisdom, I will take with me when I return to mars. Earth is too complicated lol. Thanks Cooter