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I can't belive it! After all I have done. What next?

Started by mikes68charger, October 27, 2006, 07:49:25 PM

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mikes68charger

I have made several post recently on this site trying to figure out why my transmission grinds between power shifts. I was using a wilwood hyd set up and used 2 diffrent master clyinders and 2 diffrent slave clyinders. Hays clutch co. said I was using to strong of a clutch (3000lbs) and sold me a new lighter (2100lbs) clutch( with no discount)    So now I spent $200 for the complet z bar setup, (car was originally an auto)

I'm amazed how nice the factory z bar set up is. I like it much better than the hydraulic setup.

OK now The petal presses down great. The clutch only engages in the last 2 - 2 1/2 of the release of the petal. I have about 4 inch of free complet release of the clutch. It still grinds between power shifts or down shifts. I have tried everything I must of been riped off when I paid the shop $700 to rebuild the trans. What else could it be? I have an extra regular 4 speed / no OD  sitting in the shop, but I got it off ebay ( was told it was an OD and it wasn't) and the main bearing is really lose. Should I try to put it on?

Steve P.

I know allmost jack about trannies, but that sounds like a syncro problem to me.
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

oldkimmer

I hope u are not using synthetic in it. It is 2 slippery,not allowing the syncros to slow down fast enough to grab the next gear.
Back in the good old days 1968 charger rt 440 magnum . 1968  charger 383 magnum. The Beast has been Unleashed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

tecmopar

Are you SURE you have all of the correct clutch linkage in there, from the pedal to the fork. You should have about 1" of free play at the top of the pedal and about .080-.100 of an air gap between the disc and flywheel when the pedal is depressed. Remove the bottom inspection cover and have some one step on the pedal for you so then you can measure the gap. Unfortunatly there are a lot of shops that think they know how to rebuild an A-833 but in reality they don't know jack s**t. Lets work on the clutch linkage first. And as stated above, if you have trans "Fluid" in it, take it out and replace it with the correct gear oil. Good Luck.

mikes68charger

The peatels cam from Tonys Mopar parts, They fit with no problem and look just like the ones on the other post ( about the Hyd Setups)  The trans and fork cam from a 78 dodge van with 318. The bellhouseing cam off ebay, (Lakewood blow prof houseing) So did the flywheel. I got the shifter off ebay also, Hurst shifter for center counsol it looked just like the same ones that I toke off the organal trans the linkage that is.

is_it_EVER_done?

The lubricant you are using in your trans can have a big impact on grinding so it may be worth your while to change it to another brand/viscosity, BUT ... you said that you are running a Lakewood. Did you set it up with offset dowels to get as close to zero runout as possible?

My guess is that that is your problem as I've seen it (and done it) before. If it's not set up properly (and I've never seen one that was close out of the box), the trans will always have a rotational load so that the gearset can't mesh properly.

mikes68charger

I started with synthic 80-90w then this site told me not to use synthic so I swiched to old school 80-90w gear oil, then I was told to use dexstron auto fluid becouse thats what the factory put in. No diffrance. 

When I paid all that money to have the cluch replaced I ask the old man to check the alinemant, even gave him the adjustment dowels and the dircetions from a mopar artical I found.  He acted like I didn't know what I was talking about. He said all these tras had so much wige room that going that percise was a wast of time. He told me he would check it :P

tecmopar

The bellhousing alignment is VERY important, even more so with a Lakewood. Back to the clutch linkage. It sounds like you may have the wrong fork in there which could be causing the excess pedal play that you have. I'm sure a van fork is different then a SB-B body fork, you must use the correct one. A few of them look almost identical but their not, axis point, lenght, bend, finger lenght and fork bracket could throw it off by quite a bit. PM me and I'll give you my # so I can go through it with you, good luck.