where to run electric items to a key'd ignition

[emanscharger]

Hey guys..can anyone tell me where to run key on electric items..exhaust dumps..electric fan..and fuel pump relay switch.. and gauges am i supposed to just plug in to the box in the clove compartment?

[Nacho-RT74]

Search for the correct diagram and will find several sources to several functions on underdash harness.

Acc sources send power on RUN and ACC ignition switch position

RUN sources, mostly wired Blue, like ballast resistor. gets power only on RUN position and not accesories. Also get power on START position, but just drawed back throught the ballast itself when brown wire gets power on START feedind directly the coil.

Underdash harness also has direct batt sources and Door jam switch ground.

diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/wiringdiagrams.htm

That's to switch on or off the relays devices.

For relay main sources you can get power form alt stud, from batt stud, starter relay stud or any of amm studs inside the cab.

If you get the power on alt side of wiring you will get the right ammeter comsumption reading. That includes on ammeter stud, the stud where black wire comming from alt stud is bolted if you need the relay main source inside the cab.

For a while if you feed the Relay power source from Batt, starter relay or red side amm stud, you will get reversed the ammeter reading when relays are working. Everything will work fine, just unnacurate reading on ammeter. Something to think if you want to get the right reading.

For engine bay sources and right reading on ammeter I would feed from alt stud.

Note: Now I know you got a powerfull alt, upgrade the wiring for heavier wires and releasing from extra load the bulkhead connectors. there is several ways to make that, but MaMopar did make this when cars were assemblied with High output alts depending on packages got ( at least since 71 )

Another source of info that I don't like since some of said there is not completelly true is here:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
They say the main splice is relocated with that job on starter relay stud what is not true since you are still needind the same power inside the cab. Only what makes that ilussion is you are bypassing the weak spade terminals but still are feeding the complete car by JUST ONE WIRE, what by teh way is a fussible link. But basically that website gives you info about the weaks about Mopar system that can be saved.

Tou can get about same results linking the alt stud with a heavier wire directly from alt stud  to starter relay and cutting bulkhead terminals from alt and from starter relay but you won't get right ammeter reading. Of course that is if you want to keep the ammeter reading.

There is a lot of problems related with the Charging Mopar problems than JUST the extra loads and weak points. The main problem was really the extremelly low charge load at iddle that makes on high rpms get excesivelly high loads with high peaks for long periods of time to get battery charged again, discharged on normal operation.

With a Nice alt iddle charge you get a nice average load, not more high peaks by long time, no more overheating because the overloads. On those moments the car is being feeded by the alt for a while the alt is able to feed up to its capacity, and no more by the batt.

[phat69charger]

Emanscharger, here's some info I posted in the headlight upgrade post, you can buy a $8 fuse panel from advance auto  http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=4017D&mfrcode=BUS&mfrpartnumber=156000620 to power up some relays and just run your switches to the relays, the relays handle the current from what every it is you connect up and the switch just turns the relays on and off.

I forgot to say that you can run a 8 Ga wire from the alternator or the starter relay to the $8 fuse panel, if you need more than 65 Amps you can run 4 Ga wire like they do in car stereo to a fused distribution block then brake it down to a smaller wire.

In my post I on the old site, I said as a example of what you can do with relays are, if you had six items or anything electrical to turn on in you car, you don't need a single switch for every thing that you what to turn on, just one off  & on switch and six relays to do the switching for each item, and to add to that if your worried about running 12 volt power wires through your car and starting fires or burning things up, the easy fix is just make your switch in the car the ground wire, and there's no 12 volt positive wires inside to short or arch on things.

Here's what I Posted
Hi, everyone I don't know if you all remember or if you ever seen the info that I had posted about relays in response to (Charger1970) post , on the old site here's some of them again.

Parts info, they have the best prices on relays you'll find and most of the parts that you'll need to do a lot of different electrical upgrades:
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&Webpage_ID=3&DID=7&CAT_ID=47&ObjectGroup_ID=31&SO=2

You can buy all the hard to find parts for the headlight upgrade for under $10.00, and get the fuses, wire and connectors locally:

Two Bosch relays    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=330-070
Dual relay socket      http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=330-078
Two inline fuse holders  http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&SO=2&DID=7&CATID=31&ObjectGroup_ID=233 

General information about relays:
http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relays.html
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/500-001.pdf

Click on the relay links below the paragraph on the page below and you'll see more info than you'll ever need about relays:
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp

[Nacho-RT74]

DAMN HOT LINKS!!! VERY USEFULL... some stuff I did know but the others one didn't

[emanscharger]

thanks for all the info and pics guys!