ANOTHER OPTION FOR DAYTONA NOSE SEALS , CLOSE UP THAT GAP !

[daytonalo]

The following pix demonstrate how I closed up the gap on daytona nose to fender . The gap is now 3/8 of an inch , and before I go any further I should state ,FOR CLONES ONLY ! . I could not live with that factory irregular , fat , warped looking seal , and said to myself there must be a better way , and I wanted a system that could hold the gap tightly without moving around . First I fiberglassed in a 3x4 x 1/8 flat stock with 1/4 -20x 1 - 1/4 studs weld from the rear so they wont come out , second I extended the leading edge of the fender 1.5 inch and cut slots so that the studs will slide in and hold that gap tight using fender washers on both side of leading edge so that I bring the fender in and out as needed on the side . then I installed a seal that is closed cell rubber that has a skin on the outside edge and the seal is 5/8 wide and is installed after the nose is in position with a nylon glazer tool [ glass tool ] . It looks much better than factory , I have plenty of this rubber seals if needed

[daytonalo]

more pix

[daytonalo]

I should note that I will still use the z-braces , although you can hang on this thing no problem as is

[dads_69]

I am going to the same thing like yo did on your fender, add extra support. I built about the same thing, I don't have the nose cone yet, therefore I haven't gotten much further on my mock up yet. Are you or is it *hotrod98* Larry building metal Z braces also for sale later on? Wish I was closer to lend you a helping hand on your build. Keep up the good work.
Mark

[daytonalo]

Larry [hot rod ] has talked about it . I used my f-glass as a template and note the access plate I made so that the headlight door could be removed

[hotrod98]

Howie loaned me a set of steel z-braces that someone built years ago. I'll use those as well as the set of Janek f/g z-braces for measurements. I want to be able to sell them cheap enough that no one will try to use the f/g z-braces. They're starting on my new building next week. I'll be able to move stuff around so that I can get back on the daytona parts. We actually have been doing a little every day with one part or another. Nothing that shows real progress though. I've recruited some help from a couple of more guys around here that want to build their own daytona clones. I told them that if they help me that I'll make it worth their while.

[Howie]

Larry,  (daytonalo) Have you determined what you are going to do about the gab between the nose and the hood? It seems to be rather large. The pictures I took from the 71 car shows it to be a small gap like the fender gap that you have created.

[hemigeno]

I also guess you'll have to mount a hood pop-up spring.  Daytona's didn't have one originally, although Superbirds did.    By using a much smaller gap between the nosecone and the fender/hood, you won't have enough room to shove your fingers in between the hood and the flap/seal to lift the hood up (like I have to do on my car).

I don't know how close the hood rib/bracing comes to the latch tray, and how a hood spring would mount up, but I suspect there is a spot somewhere that it will work.  That might be another reason to fab up a steel latch tray too, as I don't know if a F/G version would work as well (might depend on how much the spring would be compressed).

[daytonalo]

why complicate life ? The factory hood to nose seal is more than adequate . As far as the hood popping up , it is a non issue , because of the angle the nose meets the hood .

[hemigeno]

why complicate life ? The factory hood to nose seal is more than adequate . As far as the hood popping up , it is a non issue , because of the angle the nose meets the hood .

I don't understand what you mean.  The hood on my car (or at least the blue hood that used to be on my car) follows the contours of the nosecone fairly well, and the leading edge was actually a little below the nosecone's back corner/edge.  You really did have to dig your fingers in between the seal and the hood lip to lift the hood up.  I think that's one of the reasons the Superbird had a pop-up spring, since it was a real pain to open the Daytona's hood.  When you pull the hood pins out, the hood stays right where it was.

My point is that if you shrink that distance way down (between the hood edge and the nosecone edge/corner) as you have done with your car, you will have a harder time getting your fingers in there to lift the hood up.

I could be wrong, I just know how my car is, that's all.

[daytonalo]

Like you said the nose is slightly lower , trust me I have to dig a little harder to pop it up , Trust me this is no problem , I have bigger problems like not frying my tires with my 472 HEMI , 600 H.P

[daytonalo]

If it becomes a problem , I will install bottle rockets under hood !

[hemigeno]

Like you said the nose is slightly lower , 

No, on mine the hood is a little lower than the nose.  I would show you a picture, but I have already swapped out the hood to the "original" Daytona hood that I picked up at Carlisle this year.  That hood is slightly racked (and will need some work to lay flat, but it is do-able), so it wouldn't show the true position of the hood against the seal & nosecone.  My blue hood did sit just a little lower than the nosecone.

If yours works for you, then there's no worries. 

[Daytona Guy]

Great work Daytonalo:

I felt the same way about the factory gap. I closed mine to within .5 inches. What you did will make it strong and consistent for years. Also I have no problems lifting the my hood. Fun to watch your word. Top notch.

[hotrod98]

Where the heck have you been, Dane? 

[BigBlockSam]

 

[daytonalo]

Like Rene said , where have you been ? Thank you for the vote of confidence , by the way what did you use for the nose to fender seal ?
                                                                                                                                  Larry

[Daytona Guy]

My son and I have been working on his 72 Charger. It has been a busy summer. Not doing much with my car. I have been just enjoying everyone's post and pics. I am so impressed. The cloning has jumped many notches for the Daytona because of this board. I love to see the creativity. I think it would be great if some time in the future if we could all cruse to a place and have a Daytona clone fest. Ha ha. All this is great for the hobby. Thank for the welcome back. You guys are great.

About the rubber in the gap, you will die laughing. I use a 3M rubber trunk seal $10.00. I cut it in half, top side showing, and clue it in the gap. Been two years now and looks great. The after market rubber is just hideous.

[daytonalo]

Its funny , I used the same thing on mock up stage . I made my own seals out of this closed cell rubber that has a skin on one side . I don't want to glue in place so you kind of work it in with a nylon glass tool . I cut the seal to 5/8 x4 ft then installed it and let it wrap the lower corner then cut it off .

[hotrod98]

Dane, I heard that the center of the U.S. is somewhere around Lawrence, KS. Too bad they stopped having the mopar show at Heartland Park Topeka. That would have been a great place to have a wing car clone show.