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4 Speed Problem

Started by mikes68charger, October 01, 2006, 09:16:50 PM

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mikes68charger

Thanks for all your help with the colant leaks, but those are new problems.

My 4 speed OD (A833) has been grinding gears ever since I started driving it. In previous thread I was told to take the synthetic gear oil out, and put the old school gear oil in, then I put in the dexstron with do difference with any.

Then my friend thought I wasn't getting enough clutch release, so I called CNC (the slave manufacture) and they told me I needed to upgrade my wilwood 5/8 to a 3/4 mastercylinger and go from a 3 AN to a 4 AN clutch line.  This did nothing more than make the petal harder to press

So I decided to rebuild my Hurst shifter with new bushings and clips. I didn't have the factory size rod to put in the shifter but I used a drill bit that I could fit in the hole. This didn't help at all eather.

OK guys I'm Lost here! I don't know what else to do!  It shifts OK if you hold the shifter in the next gear with light pressure (light on the gas) But If you are on the gas it will always grind and downshifts are just about imposable.

What now? I guess I'm going to have to take it to a shop. I cant afford some big bill to fix something that is suppose to work. I knew I should of when with the kelser 5 speed set up, but this way was $1000 cheaper and Problem spend that fixing this problem :devil:

Chryco Psycho

are you getting full clutch release ?
How new are the syncros , the rpm gaps on the OD are wider so it takes a little longer to slow the gears to match speeds
you may not have been very happy with the Keisler either after a few experiences with them

Ghoste

Why?  What have you been hearing?

mikes68charger

Everything is brand new, resurfaced the flywheel, brand new Centerfore Duel Friction Clutch, and $700 on having the trans rebuilt.

I was trying to remember back a year ago when I put it all togeather. I'm also using a lakewood bellhousing but it was made for the standard 4 speed 833, The 833 OD has a bigger baring on the front of the trans. SO I took the housing to a machine shop and had the hole opened up to the OD Bering size. I'm thinking the hole in the bellhouseing could off been opened a little off center and messed up the alignment of the trans and pilot bushing. Isn't there a way to adjust the alignment of the bellhouseing with adjustable dowel pins? How do you do this? Could this be my problem?? 

My friend told me to take the trans out and see if there is a wear mark on the new pilot bushing to see if this could be the problem. What you think?

resq302

Did you install the clutch plate in the right way?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Chryco Psycho

the easier wya to solve the brg retainer problem is to remove the front brg retainer & put it in a lathe & cut it down to 4.8" but yes it can cause a problem if the hole is not centered & yes offset dowels will fix it
As far as Keisler goes I ordered a pistol grip from them in March  & was told it was in stock  around the end of july 1/2 of it shows up , it is designed to fit the Keisler trans  but it is unusable without the adapter for the Hurst shifter so we call & the adapater is promisedto be sent right away AT THEIR cost ...... it shows up around the end of sept & we are charged for shipping etc again
then at Carlisle I  talked with a person who had installed the complete system in his Challenger , he could not shift into any of the rear gears , so 135 were fine 24& r were unusable because the shifter hit the driveshaft , he took it up with Kiesler & they gave him all the upgraded newly designed parts to fix the problem , they were the same parts & he still cannot use any rear gear , the funny part was he spent his weekend parked right infront of the Keilser tent & told anyone who would listen about his problems & this is not the only person I have talked to either that has major problems with Both function & supply of their product   

mikes68charger

Thanks,

So what you are saying is take the front retainer Bering off and have it shaved down about 2 1/16  or so. This will give me the wiggle room needed to make sure the trans will lineup properly. Cool, So how will I know if the trans is strait or not?

Also this is the second time I have been asked If I installed the Clutch in correctly? I Don't understand. It seemed to me,there was only one may to install it. And If buy chance I didn't do it rite would the trans worke at all?

Thanks  :icon_smile_cool:

tecmopar

Well, you have already had the hole opened up so now about all you can do is dial in the bellhousing using offset dowels and hope you get lucky. If they cut the hole way off center then your in for some real fun trying to get it right, good luck.

Chryco Psycho

the clutch can work with the disc in backwards , there is a rasied center hub that Must face into the pressure plate or it will bind in the rear of the flywheel