Don't be stupid like me (brake work story)

[Ghoste]

I was sitting in the garage late last night replacing the pads and rotors on the Charger with the shiny new nos stuff I found at the Nats.  I had cracked the bleeder to push the pistons back into the bore and managed to get a small spill of brake fluid on the floor.  Not a puddle but a spot about the size of a dollar coin.  Normally I clean something like that up immediately but I broke my rule and decided to get it "in a minute" because I was nearly finished and it was late so I thought I'd clean everything up at once.
As I was sliding the caliper into place, one of my expensive, real asbestos, nos bendix style, unobtainium disc brake pads was jarred and fell to the floor.  Yep, you guessed it.  It landed pad side down exactly on top of the little brake fluid spill.  It soaked that crap up like a high tech California super Chamois getting tossed in a pool.
Luckily, I bought an extra set but I'm still out one.  Don't be like me and take shortcuts.  It's only worse because it is a personal rule with me about cleaning stuff up and I certainly know better.
If you spill it, CLEAN IT UP!!!!!!

[tan top]

of all the places to land  , stuff like that has happend to me like that over the years  , 

[TylerCharger69]

Yep....Murphy's law

[moparguy01]

just sand it off with some sandpaper. if it wasnt soaking in it you should be able to get it all off.

[TylerCharger69]

For the record....it is not necessary to crack the bleed valve open to retract the caliper pistons.   BUT....take the cap off of the master cylinder though.  I'm assuming you are using the traditional "C" clamp for a retracting tool.   Just my 

[Ghoste]

Four piston calipers.  No spot for a tool to retract them.  Actually, the lid was off the master cylinder but it was just moving fluid around inside the caliper.  The old pads and rotors were so worn that the pistons were just about fully extended.  There was just too much fluid inside there.

[Silver R/T]

thanks for the tip

[dodge freak]

The pad should clean up with brake cleaner. I always spray brake cleaner on the pads before they go on and on the rotors too. After they are all done I spray the rotors again while turning them.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would try brake clean as suggested ,it will lift the brake fluid out

[Ghoste]

Really?  I thought you were supposed to avoid getting that stuff on the pads and shoes too?  I'll give it a try though.  I have nothing to lose and I don't like the idea of sanding asbestos.

[bull]

And toast always lands butter-side down, unless you strap it to the back of a cat. Seriously, the sandpaper thing will work like moparguy said. I've done and know guys who do it when a little grease gets on brake shoes. The only thing that might happen if it doesn't clean up with sandpaper is it might create a bit of a hard spot on your rotor.

[Steve P.]

Yup, brake clean.. 

To press the pistons in I keep the caliper in place andpry the pads against the pistons with a small pinch bar.

I do like to bleed off some old fluid and replace it with new though. I guess I'm still use to the rust buckets in New York!!

[Ghoste]

I sprayed it with brake cleaner last night and it seemed to lighten it but it still looks pretty dark to me. 

[dwitzel]

Old mechanic trick, soak the pad down in brake clean and bury it in you floor dry for the night. I know it will suck 80w90 out of rear shoes overnight.

[Ghoste]

Thanks, I'll try that.  I used the other set of new ones but it'd be nice to have that one around for a backup.

[will]

I would not sand asbestos unless you want asbestosis in 20 years. Wear a respirator if you do. Please don't throw eggs, I sorta know about this stuff. Asbestos never leaves your body. It buries itself in your lungs and causes cancer. Any amount is too much.

[bull]

I would not sand asbestos unless you want asbestosis in 20 years. Wear a respirator if you do. Please don't throw eggs, I sorta know about this stuff. Asbestos never leaves your body. It buries itself in your lungs and causes cancer. Any amount is too much.

Asbestos? They don't use it anymore.

[resq302]

Not anymore but if you find a set of old NOS ones or ones that have been sitting on shelves, they will contain asbestos.  I picked up a pair for my car that were made by Wagner and had about an inch of dust from sitting on the shelf.  Huge warning decal saying the pads contained asbestos.  Oh well.

[Ghoste]

They haven't used asbestos in brake parts since around the early 90's I believe, but these ones I am talking about are NOS pads Bull.   I found some at the Nats.

[bull]

They haven't used asbestos in brake parts since around the early 90's I believe, but these ones I am talking about are NOS pads Bull.   I found some at the Nats.

Don't breathe it then. Sanding a spot that size with a dust mask on won't kill you (unless you're 95 already) but if you're at all concerned just use the Brakleen method.

[will]

Welcome to NAFTA. You can get a 5 gallon flush toilet in Cananda. Asbestos is a chief export. Read a can of roofing cement and see how much chrysolite asbestos is in iit. It can be sold here, Only at the Home Depot.

[nick_iam]

put a clear hose on the bleeder screw aimed into a mayo jar ... avoid spills.

and there is no need to open screw anywho, use old pad to push in piston(s) quick and done. really wanna get old fluid out outta habit? do it afterwards with the clear hose thingy...

oh and make sure you put a lube on the slide points of caliper, just good practice!

[Ghoste]

Well, that was the really the first stupid part.  The other stupid part was not cleaning it up immediately.  As for not needing to open the bleeders to change the pads, I promise you, in this case it was absolutely necessary.
It's all good now.

[resq302]

I for one prefer getting the old fluid out of there.  Especially with the 4 piston caliper set up since they are so prone to internal rusting and leaking then.  I just installed a pair of reman'd 4 piston calipers that I got off of 41Husk (thanks again by the way  )  and after I had them installed, they worked perfectly up until about a month or so ago when the driver side started leaking.  I was able to get a rebult kit and pull apart the caliper myself and found out what caused the leak.  Rust had formed on the bore and was causing small pitting which made the caliper leak.  With a little sanding and a hone I picked up that fit inside the bore, I should be able to repair this caliper.  Know I know why when people rebuild these, they opt for the stainless steel sleeves to prevent the rusting.  Probably if I used my car more, it would not have rusted but with my work schedule and the baby on the way in a couple months, free time is at a minimum right now.