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Torsion Bar Costs/Recommendations

Started by yellocharge68, September 13, 2006, 02:20:30 PM

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yellocharge68

I have the complete Superfront end Kit from PST, and I noticed that their torsion bars cost $369.00 while, I saw at Mancini Racing, they are only like $139.00 to 159.00 .....What gives? Any opinion as to which ones would be best, My intent is to have a weekend cruiser/red light warrior not a drag car....I really would like my car to handle like it was on a rail, but not sure about that happening to over  two tons of Mopar.  Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, as always to all of you for the sage advice and help!!!! ??? :icon_smile_cool:
Sunfire Yellow 1968 Dodge Charger 383/727 auto-console

69chargerboy

Quote from: yellocharge68 on September 13, 2006, 02:20:30 PM
I have the complete Superfront end Kit from PST, and I noticed that their torsion bars cost $369.00 while, I saw at Mancini Racing, they are only like $139.00 to 159.00 .....What gives? Any opinion as to which ones would be best, My intent is to have a weekend cruiser/red light warrior not a drag car....I really would like my car to handle like it was on a rail, but not sure about that happening to over  two tons of Mopar.  Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, as always to all of you for the sage advice and help!!!! ??? :icon_smile_cool:

I went through the same dilemma. The biggest difference would be the torsion bar diameter. The bigger the better. I replaced mine with MoPar Performance torsion bars and P-S-T Polygraphite front end bushing kit for my R/T. I suggest is just to shop around. You can't go wrong with any manufacturer. Just need to know what size diameter you want to use.

If you really want your car to ride on rails and you have deep pockets, you need to go to these websites. http://www.xvmotorsports.com   and    http://magnumforce.com
My MoPar Family:
                                       
1968 Chrysler 300 
1968 Coronet 440 4-Dr                                                              
1968 Coronet 440                                       
1969 Charger                                       
1973 Charger SE 
1988 Dodge Custom 150 Pickup

andyf

This is one of those rare deals where the cheaper product is the better one.  The factory Mopar bars are the best made since they are forged and preset twisted per the original factory process.  Who knows how the aftermarket bars are made but I bet they aren't made correctly.

Buy the cheap bars from Mancini (or just get them from your local dealer so you don't have to pay freight) and you'll be getting the best quality.

It isn't very often when the cheap stuff is the good stuff but this is one case where it is true.

Chryco Psycho

I agree , Mopar bars are good , do not get carried away though , a friend ordered the .125 bars & the bars didn`t flex at all just the tire sideways
.96 is a good upgrade from stock .92 bars , the biggest I would try is the 1"

yellocharge68

Chryco, and all other esteemed MOPAR afficianodos...

     I took your advice and ordered them from Mancinin, including dust boots and covers drive out was less than $200.00 bucks...easy on the wallet ...Thanks again for the advice...I will try and take pics from start to finish...not sexy I know but maybe I can help pass on info in my quest to improve my car that may help someone else!!!  Thanks all for the innput and advice...Be Safe!!!

Go Dodge Chargers!!!!!!
Sunfire Yellow 1968 Dodge Charger 383/727 auto-console

yellocharge68

Bump..... :yesnod:
I just checked and the Mancini Torsion bars just arrived at the hoiuse... Talk about prompt....If only I had the timeto stop and put them in!!!!  Oh well, just an FYI.... Once ordered they are very prompt and the bars arrived with all the bushings and, clips and dusct boots as ordered promptly!!!! How cool is that these days!!!! :o
Sunfire Yellow 1968 Dodge Charger 383/727 auto-console

Wakko

Summit is selling them now, but I don't know what brand they are.
Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM

resq302

Quote from: Wakko on September 24, 2006, 09:26:49 AM
Summit is selling them now, but I don't know what brand they are.

That is where I got mine from.  If you check the back section of the Summit Catalog, there is a section for Mopar Performance stuff.  I think mine were about $150 or so with free shipping.  Got them in about 2-3 days also!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Steve P.

I would say tuning your suspension for the street is just about as much work as tuning for racing. If you want it to RAIL CORNERS, be prepaired to also be spending some money on wheels and tires and shocks and bushings and adjustable control arms and heavy tie rod ends and sleeves and, and, and........   ;)


Mopars reallllly don't handle that badly. They took a beating with crappy nylon , skinny tires. By the time people were putting on radials the entire front end was tired. A well build front end with a GOOD alignment will make a world of difference. :yesnod:

I'm also with Chryco and Andy on the .960 bars from MOPAR. On top of it all they are clocked correctly. Many other brands ARE NOT!!!!
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

Rolling_Thunder

one of the mopar rags a couple issues back did an article on a 440 powered 67 coronet...    with 15" rims, some decent rubber, .96" torsion bars, stock sway bars, rebuilt front and, and adjustable upper control arms - it pulled a .92g skidpad...     thats pretty damn good considering a 2003 Corvette holds a .91g on the skidpad...     

Mopars CAN handle very well  -   just takes the knowhow on what to do...        look at the green brick for inspiration
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

68ChargerJMP


Has anyone else had a problem with their torsion bar dust boots fitting correcetly? I tried to order the rubber ones, but they didnt have any ,so they sent me the poly boots. Im here to tell you this is the second pair Ive had, and they will absolutely not fit over the t-bar ends. What up with that? Where a good place to find the regular rubber ones? Thanx.

Steve P.

Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

Blakcharger440

Quote from: Rolling_Thunder on September 25, 2006, 10:37:19 PM
one of the mopar rags a couple issues back did an article on a 440 powered 67 coronet...    with 15" rims, some decent rubber, .96" torsion bars, stock sway bars, rebuilt front and, and adjustable upper control arms - it pulled a .92g skidpad...     thats pretty damn good considering a 2003 Corvette holds a .91g on the skidpad...     

Mopars CAN handle very well  -   just takes the knowhow on what to do...        look at the green brick for inspiration


I remember reading that article over and over,but I dont remember it getting .92 on the skid.  ???
If this is correct and the 2003 Corvettes best is .91 then that .92 is a great number!  :o
I will look for the article as this has me feeling pretty good about the great possibilites of a mopar suspension!   :yesnod:

Lowprofile

Excellent info guys! I am taking notes and stockpiling my parts! :icon_smile_big: :2thumbs:
"Its better to live one day as a Lion than a Lifetime as a Lamb".

      "The final test of a leader is that he leaves behind him in other men the conviction and will to carry on."

Proud Owner of:
1970 Dodge Charger R/T
1993 Dodge Ram Charger
1998 Freightliner Classic XL

375instroke

Searching through topics.  $139 for torsions?  They're like $350 now, and $65 just for the boots.

dkn1997

RECHRGED

ChargerST

Just Suspension 1" forged bars: $199.95

P-S-T 1.03" forged bars: $219

greymag

Check where they are made. A few years back they were importing them from who-knows-where. They just looked like torsion bars. The alloy was terrible.

red79

Quote from: ChargerST on March 21, 2012, 02:36:29 PM
Just Suspension 1" forged bars: $199.95

P-S-T 1.03" forged bars: $219

Be careful, I have a set of the P-S-T 1.03" bars and they are clocked differently than stock and MP bars. In one position the front end was ridiculously high even with the adjusters backed out, the next notch over they just barely ride off the bump stops with the adjusters all the way in. If you look at their website now they note this fact--and that they are designed for 'cars that are being lowered'. They didn't provide this helpful info a year ago when I bought them, but P-S-T is letting me exchange them (and pay the $$ difference) for a set of genuine 0.96" MP.

In short, can't go wrong with MP bars. I've also heard great things about Firm Feel.

375instroke

Oh crap.  I need 200# bars, so I just ordered the 1.03" PST bars, at $220 yesterday.  I like my cars low, so thought it would be fine.  Guess we'll see.

Brass

Quote from: 375instroke on March 22, 2012, 06:21:48 PM
Oh crap.  I need 200# bars, so I just ordered the 1.03" PST bars, at $220 yesterday.  I like my cars low, so thought it would be fine.  Guess we'll see.

I recently got the 1" bars from Just Suspension and ordered boots and clips separately off ebay.  I like my cars a little low too - so we'll see indeed.  It'll also be interesting to see how these bars hold up to Seattle's ultra-shitty streets.

red79

Quote from: 375instroke on March 22, 2012, 06:21:48 PM
Oh crap.  I need 200# bars, so I just ordered the 1.03" PST bars, at $220 yesterday.  I like my cars low, so thought it would be fine.  Guess we'll see.

Good luck. Haha makes me wish I'd gotten to swapping out my p-s-t bars a couple days sooner... looks like some tranny fluid got on the driver's side barwhile they were in the car, so now I can't exchange them. If anyone needs a set, they'll be in the swap meet section!

Steve P.

Why can't you just clean them up?? Break clean or alcohol  should work fine.
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

red79

Quote from: Steve P. on March 22, 2012, 11:15:16 PM
Why can't you just clean them up?? Break clean or alcohol  should work fine.

They're powder coated, and the tranny fluid started eating away at it and the coating is bubbling up in places on the front foot or so of the bar. Unfortunately, p-s-t (can't blame them) will only take them back for an exchange if they're in 'new, resellable condition'.

375instroke

Tranny fluid eating powder coat?  Awesome.

resq302

would it be cost effective if you should have it repowder coated and then sent back to them?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Steve P.

I was unaware that they powder coat them and am wondering how that holds up on something that twists back and fourth constantly??
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

383_68charger

I got a quick question,I have a 68 charger and I'm about to install my torsion bars,thay are originals that I sand blasted and got powder coated.I do know that there is a left and right,but what end do i install them.Do I put the end that has the L stamped in it faceing the back of the car or do i put it toword the front?

red79

Quote from: resq302 on March 23, 2012, 11:44:04 AM
would it be cost effective if you should have it repowder coated and then sent back to them?

at this point I just ordered a new set of MP 0.96" from mancini and I'll try and sell mine used at a discount to someone who wants to lower their car. Don't want to deal with them anymore...

Steve P.

These T-bars are making me wonder if proper travel and control can be had by these lowering bars... I think if I were to lower my front end I would probably go with lowering spindles.. Not that I have looked into it, but off the top of my head these make me wonder.....  :shruggy:
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

375instroke

Front to back doesn't matter, but I think the factory installed the letters in the back.  I also think the line on the end is placed vertical.

JeffYoung

When it comes to Mopar suspensions, always call Firm Feel first.  They make the best stuff, and have a lot of experience making Mopars handle.

I have their STage III steering box, 1.18 bars, tubular uppers, road race rears, heavy duty ties, sways and bushings on my 72 Rallye and it transformed the car.  It's got crap rubber on it now, but it corners flat, no roll and rides good.  Very modern feel to it, with great steering adn feedback.

Talk to FF first!

myk

I've been looking at those Firm Feel steering boxes.  Are they just a drop in replacement?  How would you say "Stage 3" feels like?  I would love to get feedback and firmness like my '99 Firebird does, as it's just right IMO...

375instroke

I like the manual box, except at a complete stop.  Can't imagine the Stage III would be stiffer than that.