Steering components removal - I'm stuck

[73Charger]

I'm installing headers - or rather still trying to remove the old ones. started with driver side - car is on jack stands on that side only.
Problem - the center link runs through the headers and i need to get them off.

My directions say to remove the left side tie rod from the drag link and remove the drag link from the pitman arm.  I don't see any the last two items in my haynes manual so I'm afraid of doing it wrong.

I do see the tie rod in the manual but i don't know what a drag link is so I don't know which side to remove.

I tried removing the 4 bolts on the center link, but it wont budge.

I'd like to figure this out quick since the headers and starter are just hangin and I don't like the engine exposed like that. i'm good with pictures is someone has a sketch or pic that would be great.

[73Charger]

Here are pics of what I'm looking at

[Chryco Psycho]

the drag link is the center link , you need to separte the tie rod & pitman from the pitman arm as the center link passes through the headers , why they are designed like this I have No idea

[73Charger]

Do I need to have the wheels off the ground for this?  I have one up now since I was starting with the driver side header and had also been working on the floor. Should I just jack up the entire front, or does it not matter?  The center link would not budge off the bolts, so I'm guessing I have to remove all the stuff connected to it instead.  or - does it only come off / on with the wheel supported? I'm a real newbie at this - never messed with any steering or chasis stuff.

[73Charger]

duh - i figured it out - i need to buy a small puller to get the tie rod off.  hopefully i don't need some other special tool to get it all back together again. hammer is my tool of choice 

So, will these do the job?  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=8832

My haynes manual shows some other kind of puller that looks like a c clamp style thing.

[dodge freak]

No those tools won't work. They make a tie rod puller but its not cheap. I have used a pitman arm puller before but you have to turn it just right.  Maybe some auto store has a tool rental deal-some stores are better than others.

[BrianShaughnessy]

You can rent a tie rod separator for freeeeeeee  at autozone.    You just have to give them a $20 deposit or whatever. 

I bought a good one awhile back - I just can't find it online anywhere.   I try to avoid pickle forks if at all possible.

[73Charger]

Yeah - I went out today looking for a puller, and all I found were pitman pullers - which apparently are really difficult to use, and "pickle forks" as you put it. I didn't get a fork, since I figured that would tear up the rubber boot.  I'll have to drive further to an autozone I guess. pep boys, advance and sears didnt have any.

[dodge freak]

There is always www.eastwood.com They used to show a tie rod puller for $60 or so but my lastest catalog just shows a 5 piece kit now with everything you need for removing front end stuff part #49060 for $120. A good auto shop would have it or can get it , Napa also but it might be $$$.

Edit--just look yep they have it $32 bucks now-must be China made now but should work ok.
You see-some auto store's just want you to beat it off and rip the boot so you have to buy new.

[greatwn73]

Just a thought but if you are replacing the headers and you should by the looks of the pictures why not just cut them off , don't remove any steering linkage without the right tools and get headers that fit properly. The SWING PRESS (hammer) is not the tool of choice for this job.

[Steve P.]

I agree 100%... Don't mess with the steering at all. Cut the old rotted tubes off.. As bad as they are your not going to save them for anything else... You may also think about replacing that ancient starter with a mini starter and give yourself half a chance with the new headers...

[73Charger]

Problem with just cutting headers is you still have to put the bar through the new headers guys :-)  I ended up borrowing a puller from AZ as suggested, and then a couple days later I noticed they had the same tool for sale for $7 at my favorite tool store - HFreight.
The header install went well cept I've been dealing with them leaking at the heads, so I am going to try to add black rtv gasket maker next.

[Steve P.]

Summit has aluminum header gaskets that work very well on hard to seal headers..

Did you have to run the link through the new headers??

[nick_iam]

ah! dont RTV the header gaskets!! especially black, it'll just burn off. use like Mr. gasket gaskets or something... tighen header bolts in a in-to-out pattern so they'll set properly.

oh and pickle forks work ok, problem is most people use em wrong. trick is to tap em inbetween joint until decent pressure is applied, and holding fork handle in a levering manner, tap on the bar with hole in it directly where the rod end inserts. they'll pop apart piece o' cake. oh good idea to leave castle nut threaded in a bit to keep parts from flying apart...   

[deputycrawford]

The mini starter everyone is talking about is a starter from any Dodge Dakota or newer full size van. I just went to the local parts store and bought one for a 95 Dakota with a V-6. Only weights around 7 lbs.

[dodge freak]

I RTV my headers with black and its been years now and they are fine. I also just use the $7 gaskets for the factory manifold which they say don't use on headers. I have the sliver side to the heads. If anybody wants to try that just make sure the middle ports have a divider for each ports, many gaskets today don't but some factory type still do. The headers are just cheap $110 headman's--not too sure I do that with some $500 ones. But I have took the headers on and off a few times and they are now 8 years old are are sounding great no leaks and they been on for 3 years now with the RTV black silicone and metal factory gaskets, cost me about $10 to seal both sides.