Charger project selection-what should be considered?

[h76]

Just wondering what stuff you guys out there put into consideration when selecting a project charger?
Is it better to go after a solid,straight,complete,small-block 68 or a solid,but not so straight big-block 68 missing a few minor things(small-block is $2k more than big-block)?
what should be things to consider when trying to decide?
Thanks!

[69bananabeast]

rust free would be a start . If you arent able to do your own body/ paint work than you could end up spending alot of money in the process.   Even if you are able to do the work yourself then you have to take into consideration the time and money you spend doing the work  yourself.  The best thing would be to find a good body. Also you didnt mentioned are   either of the cars numbers matching?

[MM1R/T]

Unless it's an R/T, I don't think that it matters whether you start with a big or small block car. K members are the same.

Straight, solid and complete are absolutely the most important factors.

Just about any Charger you find today is going to need a trunk floor, extensions, rear valence and filler panel.

I'm currently parting a '69 that spent its entire life in NM/AZ and was taken off the road early in its life. The trunk pan is gone.

One thing that I have learned the hard way is to find a car that is complete. There are MANY parts that are specific to the Charger and Charger parts are second only to E-body stuff in price.

Price out nice condition upper door pads for example.

Find the straighest, most rust free, complete car you can. Paying more up front will save you big dollars in the long run.

[h76]

Probably shouldn't get hung up on the big-block, small-block thing. All I care is that it's a 68,complete,and under $7k.
What should you expect to see out there in the $5K to $8k range?

[Troy]

As the owner of 4 project cars... my advice is to buy one that's done. Unless, of course, you are a whiz with rust repair, body work, paint, interior, suspension, brakes, engines, transimissions, AND incredibly adept at finding parts that don't seem to exist. It also depends on what you want out of the car. If you want a concourse car then every single piece will need touched and redone. If you want a driver you may be ok with just finding a car with all the pieces and reusing the old trim and parts underneath. Mechanical stuff is by far the easiest task so no matter what engine you go with you should always start with the car with the nicest body you can afford. CudaKen would say that he'd rather fix rust or one big dent than a bunch of tiny dings but I hate rust because I have no idea how to weld or rebuild the seams that most always get eaten up. Usually, but not always, the cars that are still in good shape are small block, automatics that were owned by older couples who just needed transportation and weren't raced, beaten to death, and then left to rot in a field. The two most produced models in 1968 were the 318 (33,514) and 383 2bbl (21,455) cars. Altogether there were more 383 cars than all the rest combined but the 4bbl cars seem to have taken more abuse. Putting a big block into a small block car is very easy and almost sure to raise the value of the car when complete (even on #'s matching small block cars). If you do this, skip the 383 and just drop in a 440 - especially if you have to rebuild the engine any way. It's also a good idea to buy a car that is still together because once it's in boxes you never know what is missing. On the other hand, if it's stripped down you can see underneath and have a better idea of what you're dealing with. This goes back to whether you are going to buy/restore every piece or reuse much of it. Another concern is space. A Charger takes up a massive amount of room once it's disassembled and if you stick it on a rotisserie you need about 22'-25' of garage depth.

In review, you need to know what your end result is supposed to be. If you want to do things the easy (and fairly cheap way) then buy a nice, solid, drivable car and restore it a piece at a time while you can enjoy cruising. If you want a full-blown show car then buy a straight, solid shell that prefereably comes with all the hard to find parts (grill, trim, fenders, rear glass, etc.) and be prepared to spend a fortune getting it on the road. If you are sadistic then buy a rusted out shell with no additional parts and get a tetanus shot or two on your way to get a loan or a winning lottery ticket.

Troy

[h76]

I've seen on a few threads posted here that a lot of people have some serious cash into their chargers(especially R/Ts).I'm on the driver side of the hobby and am not really concerned with having a perfect concourse car.From what I can tell there are a lot hidden money pits once you dive into these cars and that it don't take much for the expenses to add up.I guess you just have to know what your budget is or when to do certain things on these.It also seems like people not only have a lot $ invested, but time too.
It seems to me out there that there are a lot 2nd gens at$15000 and above,a few $10000-$15000,very few$5000-$8000, and a lot of basketcases $4000 and below.

[69charger2002]

like some have said the more complete the better. the hard to find parts will add up fast. you may buy a 69 with no front cap, but solid, for $5k and that be a deal. but then you will spend $2500 on a complete front cap, $5k in motor and trans... conservatively... then you still haven't done body work or paint.. then at that exact point a NICE driver charger for $15k, even a 318 car, doesn't sound all that bad.
word to the wise. if you spend $30k on a charger, chances are it will be nice, and not bondo filled. at 15k, you BETTER inspect the car in person. some are nice, some "appear" nice. either way any car should be checked in person first.. good luck with whatever you decide.. a 15k driver charger for the money to me seems to be the best and most enjoyable way to own a charger without waiting 4 years to drive it, or having to sell your house to get it. the ones in that price range at least to me in the long run.. are the best "bang for the buck" hope this helps

[terrible one]

Avoid HLPAG (Hans Leudteke Performance Auto Group) from Lake Villa, IL at all costs!

[41husk]

I agree with Troy, Get a car that is as close to finished as you can afford.  In the long run you will spend less and enjoy your car more.

[h76]

What usually is the big dollar items you run into when restoring the 2nd gen chargers?

[PocketThunder]

What usually is the big dollar items you run into when restoring the 2nd gen chargers?

Grille
Fenders
tail light panel on 69 if you need it.

[69charger2002]

yep, i always find it funny some random people email me sometimes and want to know prices on parts.. well they start out.. how much for a clean door.. and i'll say $100. well they are excited "that's not bad" then we get to a tail panel. and i say sorry i can't help there.. then we get to fenders.. how much for a mint one? i say $600. they are like "holy crap, that's half of what i paid for my entire rusty project".. truth is i hate to even have to say 600 sounds awful, but guess what. i don't WANT to sell them at all, they are not reproduced, and i'd have a hard time replacing it for that much if i let it go.. but yes some parts go for more than some project cars.. it's wild

my short list
1. fenders
2. grills
3. tail panels
4. clusters
5. consoles
6. 4 speed stuff
7. upper dash pads
8. upper door pads

trav

[rare69]

if you are going to spend the big bucks to totally restore a charger you better make it a real R/T car! if all you want or can afford is a nice driver, find the most complete rust free car you can find and have at!

[Mike DC]

 
Forget the options, forget the mechanicals, forget about finding the car near you, and forget about finding the car fast. 
Just buy a complete, running car with an overall fit & finish & body condition at least 70% as nice as you ever want it to be.  Even if that means you have to take out a big loan to do it.

It's hard to swallow that, but it's the truth.  If you fix a car up then your money/time/aggravation will all add up to a LOT more in the end.

 

[BigBlockSam]

Forget the options, forget the mechanicals, forget about finding the car near you, and forget about finding the car fast. 
Just buy a complete, running car with an overall fit & finish & body condition at least 70% as nice as you ever want it to be.  Even if that means you have to take out a big loan to do it.
 

 

[h76]

After thinking about it some more.That sounds like it is the best route if you are able to swing it.

[Zentelis]

Unless you WANT a project.
I wanted a project, but I know my limitations, so I bought something that was road legal and ran. In other words, I was able to legally drive it home 

Even so, she's sat for 3 years while I try to save money to restore the stuff that needs it. (which, if you've read my other thread is a mute point now).

Anyway, I also recommend buying something that needs very little or no work.

[BigBlockSam]

i always buy projects but they have to run and be mostly complete. then it takes lotsa money and time but atleast i'm driving them around and having some fun with them. Rene