Fixing Floor

[73Charger]

I pulled my charger in today to get serious and start fixing my floor pans that were rusty.  I pulled out the driver seat, through it in the back, pulled back the carpet and learned about the crazy ways this car has been "fixed" by others over the years...
I'm including some pics. One thing that kind of stunned me was the use of some kind of bondo with what looks like a tarp type material. I suppose it made it stronger and helped them fill holes to big. I have a couple questions...
How much should I cut out before I weld the pan in?  The pan doesnt seem to cover the whole front area and there is a big hole behind it so I am considering just extending it with some more sheet metal. Is that normal?  I thnk the pan came from paddock or year one. Also the pan's edge by the pedals is bent down. Is this normal?  I also found that the rusting edge I saw from underneath is part of my rear pan problems. I will buy a rear pan to weld in too.  Another thing the floor pan has a big hole in the center for a rubber plug, but doesnt have one. ANyone have one?

[73Charger]

oh yeah - here is a shot of the front edge of the pan - that normal?

[NHCharger]

Oh yeah, those pics bring back some memories. I just dragged home a 72 Charger parts car, let me know what size the hole is, I'll send you a plug. Funny thing, I pulled the carpet back in the parts car and the floor is in better shape than both of my other Chargers when I got them.

[73Charger]

Thanks, the hole is 1.75" in diameter.  If you have it, I'll send you a message with info.  its nasty looking eh? 

I call it the Barney Rubble mobile now.

I do see now why the frame rail was rusting from within - moisture must have been getting between the floor and the top of the rail and settling in there. I never understood why there were drain holes in rails or even that they were shaped like that - I thought they were squared off solid on top.

As you can see I'm a novice.

I'm still debating the best way to proceed, whether to cut out the lowest parts to square it off and just leave the sides for support there, or since the floo pan seems to ride much higher than the original, to put sheet metal pieces back in, weld them, and then weld the new pan over that.  I'm thinking that all that bondo madness that was done is going to make it tough to find places to weld in some areas.

What do people use as a tool for cutting away floor?  would a high speed air cutter do it? is it too thick for metal sheers? I have a torch kit but no gas yet. I have a small compressor. the jagged rusty edges i've just been working with my hand and have broken them off.

[Silver R/T]

thats worse than mine. Looks like they tried to fix other hole with some fiberglass. At least more aftermarket sheetmetal is available for my 68 than your 73

[73Charger]

oh yeah - the fiberglass it what worries me the most - don't know if should just cut it all out or leave it yet. that and how to get a good weld when much is either rusted metal or fiberglass.  the worst is probably next to the door. I think I'm going to have to get some more metal, and weld it to the pan I have on that side and the back side to get me out to good metal all around.

[73chargers4404]

with that cluster f*#@k mine looked like that to  ,i would buy a 3/4 section floor pan and you would be able to use 3 of the factory weld points and what this means is no cutting and fitting it goes all the way to where it meets the firewall all the way rocker panel and all the way to the factory seam where the back floor pan is
,except on one side where the transmission tunnel is the only place where you have to cut and fit.

[73chargers4404]

heres a couple pictures of mine i still have the rear section to fix allso your goin to have trouble finding the rear section ,there are couple of places that list having them but dont and have never had them i ended up buying some nice used rear floor pans ,but the two front floor pans pictured i ordered from autobody spec and one from yearone.

[Silver R/T]

definitely take out fiberglass, fiberglass + metal = NOT good combo

[73chargers4404]

my car had that fiberglass shit in it and you coudnt even see it they had paint caked over it ,i got it back from media blasting snd was missing half my floor .this is what happens when retards restore cars .ive seen some stupid shit people have done

[hemihead]

Repro Rear floors are not being made for 3rd Gens yet by anyone.I have the same problem finding them.And the only reason we have front sections is because they are the same as E bodies.

[Lord Warlock]

How is fiberglass bad for the floor?  I would agree that just fiberglass by itself as a floor would not be acceptable since it wouldn't seal very well around the edges once weight had been put in stress areas.  But in my case my original floor was extremely solid except some pinholes under the heater core area, so what I did was grind/wire buff the scale off, then treat the whole floor with POR15 to eliminate any future rust progression.  Then sealed it with fiberglass resin before topcoating it.  I also used fiberglass material and resin to seal the trunk floor 10 years ago.  In 10 years it has not rusted at all that I can detect.  (but then again the car has been stored in a garage for 10 years as well so that could be why. 

If fiberglass is a detriment, I could always grind it all back out, I don't want it to cause problems, I want it to reduce exposure to moisture.  Gratefully my floor has withstood time very well in a high moisture part of the country. 

[NHCharger]

They do repop a 3/4 length pan, not sure if that would help.
I have a 1 3/4" plug for your floor pan. If you can't find a rear pan let me know. I'm parting out a 72 Charger. I'm keeping most of the good stuff but not any of the sheet metal, or what's left of it. The one thing I couldn't believe is the floors on this parts car are in better shape than either of my other Charger's when I got them.

[73Charger]

Thanks all,
  I've welded sheet metal over my bad area in the rear pan. I took the rubber seal out of the rear pan and put it in the new front pan.
I welded a piece over that open hole since it was next to the rusted area anyway.

I'm wondering what gauge steel the stock floor is.. its tough using only a flux welder

I really would and probably should have a full length pan, but money is tight so I'll work with what I got.

Today I began tackling the header replacement - figured it was easier access with that big hole in the front floor  and it was

Once I'm done with the header, I'll go back to fixing the front floor.

[brant]

NH Charger. Are you still parting out that 72 charger. I could use some rear pans if they are useable. Thansk.

[mopar_madman]

How is fiberglass bad for the floor?  I would agree that just fiberglass by itself as a floor would not be acceptable since it wouldn't seal very well around the edges once weight had been put in stress areas.  But in my case my original floor was extremely solid except some pinholes under the heater core area, so what I did was grind/wire buff the scale off, then treat the whole floor with POR15 to eliminate any future rust progression.  Then sealed it with fiberglass resin before topcoating it.  I also used fiberglass material and resin to seal the trunk floor 10 years ago.  In 10 years it has not rusted at all that I can detect.  (but then again the car has been stored in a garage for 10 years as well so that could be why. 

If fiberglass is a detriment, I could always grind it all back out, I don't want it to cause problems, I want it to reduce exposure to moisture.  Gratefully my floor has withstood time very well in a high moisture part of the country. 

You can get away with fixing pinholes, in a area like that because it sounds like you treated the area to stop rust and the fibreglass should be fine. Its when its used to fill big holes (usually over uncleaned rust areas) that its gonna fail. But whenever possible patching the area with metal is always best.

[Lord Warlock]

Good because I didn't relish cutting metal out when 98% of the metal is solid.  There was just a 4 inch area around the floor under the heater core where the carpet had gotten damp and you could stand on the area without it flexing. 

[moparguy01]

dear lord were they storing those patch panels underwater? thats one rusty replacement panel. I'd get that cleaned off before i did anything
then take a hammer with a pick end, and beat on the floor. where the pick end stops going through, you can take that as being as far as you need to replace metal. Then i make sure everything underneath wont be in the way when i start to cut. then to get a straight cut or at least a reasonablely straight cut, I put a peice of tape the length of the panel im replacing where just above where i intend to cut. This way i only have to follow the tape. Then I usually use a plasma cutter, but you can use a cut off wheel, just a stand 3" variety blade. Also depending on how you want to do it you can either attempt to butt weld the tunnel side of the panel, or you can flange the old peice then punch holes in the new panel to allow you to plug weld it (use weld through primer on any metal you put in. it just saves hassle later) then on the rocker side, drill out the spot welds along the edge, and punch holes in the new panel and plug weld it there too. then put alittle seam sealer over any of seams, and spray primer on the rest of the metal (you only use weld through primer on the areas being welded or areas you cannot get to later .

well thats a real quicky walk through of it, you can make it alot more indepth or you can cut abunch of corners. I'm just telling you how I do them, take what you like of my info and then go ahead and do it whatever way you feel will work for you.

[hemi-hampton]

So your replacing a Rusty floor with another Rusty floor only the new Rusty floor has no Major holes. Yeah, I'd be sure to clean that new floor up good. Take some 80 grit or 150 grit on a DA Sander to it or dump the whole thing in vat of Oxalic Acid. Or wipe down with Naval Jelly. Who ever let that thing get that rusty needs a butt kicking.  To answer your other Question. Yes, That bend in front is suppose to be there. You'll need a Blair Spot Weld Cutter to seperate that spot at front of pan or take a short cut & cut that peice off & weld to floor near seam. This seams gets covered in heavy Caulk anyways to hide the welds after you've ground them down of course.  Have fun? LEON.

[Nacho-RT74]

www.autobodyspecialt.com sells floor pans
extended floor pan:
PN MP 197 L and R
Front floor pan:
PN MP 50 LH and RH
REAR floor pan:
PN MP2373 LH and RH