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Back fire through carb..

Started by CFMopar, August 31, 2006, 06:55:23 AM

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CFMopar

When I get on the gas at idle it will pop through the carb somtimes... This is cause its running rich no?

Guess check the floats and jet down?
1971 Charger SE 440 automatic
2014 Ram EcoDiesel Laramie
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkKIkpXr-77fWg7JkeoV_g

grouseman

Nope.  You've likely got a spark event happening when it shouldn't.  Unlikely but possible is valve or cam problems, but I'd focus on the ignition side of things first.  Check the dist. cap, look for crossfiring plug wires, etc. 

firefighter3931

Vic,

It could also be going lean off idle. Check the ignition first like Grouseman said and eliminate that as a potential problem....then look at the carb.  :yesnod:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Chryco Psycho

usually it is lean off idle so you need a larger squirter int he carb to eliminate that

deputycrawford

Deffinately check timing. Idle timing, maximum timing, firing order, How fast maximum timng comes in. The works. Check vacum at idle, etc. see if it jumps around. You might even have a vacum leak that can cause lean conditions at certain times. Then put a bigger squirter in there.
If it ain't wide open; it ain't running.        Rule number one in motocross racing: Pin it; row the gear box; and wait until you hit something.     At work my motto is: If you need me, call someone else.

grouseman

I just realized.  What kind of a carb is it?  Are you STOMPING it from idle to get the pop, or is it any kind of aggressive start from idle?  Is there any indication of an off-idle bog? 

CFMopar

No not stomping on it nice and easy

I'll run through the checks today
1971 Charger SE 440 automatic
2014 Ram EcoDiesel Laramie
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkKIkpXr-77fWg7JkeoV_g

myk

Quote from: grouseman on September 01, 2006, 09:07:45 AM
I just realized.  What kind of a carb is it?  Are you STOMPING it from idle to get the pop, or is it any kind of aggressive start from idle?  Is there any indication of an off-idle bog? 

I'm still dealing with the pop from off idle, and off idle bog-I will have to try drilling out the squirter in the 'eddy as you can't change squirter sizes...

Ghoste

Carter used to offer a few different sized squirter nozzles, have you tried looking for any?

Chryco Psycho

Eddy has a pack of 3 squirters small stock & large
compared to what 14 or so for Holley  ::)

myk

Lol....All of this time I thought I needed to change the accelerator pump plunger.  It's the damned squirter I'm supposed to change?!  I'll order that ASAP and get back to you guys with the results...

Chryco Psycho


Lord Warlock

I've had a car backfire thru the carb before due to the timing being too far advanced.  Not sure why, but once i adjusted the distributor to retard the timing it stopped doing it.   Course in my case it was my car from hell 70 camaro w/350, and the flameout burnt a circle in the brand new paint on the hood.  It could have just been an ornery POS car getting even with a mopar owner.
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

Ghoste

Quote from: Lord Warlock on September 04, 2006, 11:12:15 PM
It could have just been an ornery POS car getting even with a mopar owner.

:haha:  That's what it was I bet.  If you can't beat 'em or get the rules changed...

myk

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on September 02, 2006, 01:26:04 AM
Eddy has a pack of 3 squirters small stock & large
compared to what 14 or so for Holley  ::)

LAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAME.

It's even worse than you think-that 3 pack of squirters contains these sizes: tiny, smaller than stock, and JUMBO.  I'll get the jumbo size in and see what happens.  If I had spent this amount of time working on a Holley I'd be a 'pro at this by now.

Oh, and one of you guys mentioned vacuum readings and checking to see if they bounced around?  I disconnected the hose going from my intake to the brake booster and attached that hose to a vacuum guage-I got a reading between 15 and 18, with the needle shaking pretty rapidly between those numbers.  Is that normal?  If not, then what is that and how badly am I screwed?  :-\

dodge freak

But you can drill those tiny holes out a little. Not with a drill motor but by hand. Those tiny drills are called wire drills they come in sizes .020-.050+ every 1 or 2 thousands of an inch .001 and you get whats called a pin vise or drill holder to spin it. The pin vise is $5-$10 and the drills are like 50 cents to $1 each. Only a good tool shop has them but they are worth getting , this way you can drill whatever size hole you need. They even go up over .050-.100 and higher if you need to open the jets up but some people say thats not a good idea but if eddy does not have what you need or its a RIP off I would open the jets up too , just make sure you have a spare set. You should only go up a few thousands at a time, once you go up in size you can't go smaller.

Chryco Psycho

you can go smaller , they are brass just solder them & start drilling again  ::)
the vacuum reading should be steady not bouncing 3" not a carb problem

myk

Well, I'm trying to go larger on the squirters, as I'm pretty sure that I have a lean condition going off-idle.  I just think it's wierd that they would include only 1 size that's larger than stock.

I was pretty sure that the bouncing vacuum reading wasn't right.  What could that mean?  Did I hook up the guage properly?  Are you supposed to keep the intake to brake booster hose connected while you take your vacuum reading using a T-fitting?

dodge freak

What do you mean brass, what are they called and what size are they? I guess you just jam them in the hole , right ? I have a few metering blocks that the power valve holes I open up to much for my motor that be great if I can resize those holes agian. You got me thinking, thanks

dodge freak

Maybe a bad valve or a sticking one, not too sure but a vacuum leak would not cause the vacuum to bounce. Lets see what the motor pro's say.

grouseman

I don't know if the brake booster line is maybe pulsing because you're connected to a single runner.  Do you get the same bouncing when connected to the Full vac port on the carb?  If so, I'd guess a valve isn't closing tight. 

myk

Full 'vac port?  Hmm...Would that be where the vacuum advance is supposed to hook up to?  If it's a bad valve or something I'd welcome it as an excuse to tear down the motor and build it MY way, instead of trying to tune someone else's problem.

Meanwhile, I put in the larger squirter for the 'carb and the hesitation/bog/stumble whatever you wanna' call it is 99% gone.  I've also, jetted up the primaries and metering rods 1 size, so I'm figuring on addressing my ignition for any more improvement.  I was planning on jetting up the secondaries but I can't seem to get them out of the 'carb-they're stuck!  Llol...

I've gotta' say thanks to all again-it certainly isn't perfect but this car hasn't run this well in the 12 years that I've owned it...

Chryco Psycho

I assume you checked the float level while it was apart ?
raising the float level slightly can help eliminate a bog as well

myk

Yeah I did!  I didn't know where to adjust them to so I just put them to 'spec hang and drop, which is 7/16" hanging upside down, and about 1" drop.  Do you guys recommend a different setting? 

It's a good thing I checked the floats too as they were WAY off...

Chryco Psycho


myk

I'll try it-feels like a long shot, but I'll try it.  Considering that I got the vacuum readings that rapidly fluctuated between 15 and 18" I'm starting to fear that I've got internal problems, unless I'm taking the vacuum readings incorrectly...

resq302

Quote from: myk on September 07, 2006, 11:23:31 PM
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on September 02, 2006, 01:26:04 AM
Eddy has a pack of 3 squirters small stock & large
compared to what 14 or so for Holley  ::)

Oh, and one of you guys mentioned vacuum readings and checking to see if they bounced around?  I disconnected the hose going from my intake to the brake booster and attached that hose to a vacuum guage-I got a reading between 15 and 18, with the needle shaking pretty rapidly between those numbers.  Is that normal?  If not, then what is that and how badly am I screwed?  :-\

I too have noticed that with my engine.  On my 70 El Camino, the vacuum gauge holds steady for the most part.  On my charger, the gauge really bounces around but the engine seems to run ok.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Chryco Psycho

where did you hook the vacuum guage up to ?

resq302

The vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold where the vacuum line that goes from the intake to the power brakes.  Like the above post, I disconnected the vacuum brake line and attached the vacuum gauge to that fitting.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Chryco Psycho

it is more likely to bounce there than a port on the carb so you may not have any problems

resq302

Ok, my stock carb only has two ports on it.  One for the vacuum advance for the distributor which I think is only a metered vacuum (from what I heard) and the port for the pcv hose.  Which one should I hook it to?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Chryco Psycho


myk

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on September 09, 2006, 11:12:59 PM
where did you hook the vacuum guage up to ?

I don't know where Resq hooked up his vacuum guage to, but I disconnected the hose from the intake to the brake booster and hooked it up to my gauge.  Am I supposed to leave the system connected and install a T-fitting for the gauge instead, leaving the intake and the brake booster connected?

resq302

I think what Chryco is saying is to disconnect the pcv hose and get a reading for vacuum at that port as it should be more steady. 

Where I disconnected my vacuum hose was at the fitting behind the carb and on the top rear section of the intake manifold.  I installed a vacuum hose from my gauge to the fitting on the intake and took the reading there which was bouncing like you had said.  I will recheck it from the PCV port on the carb when I get my car back from the body shop hopefully on Monday.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

myk

PCV port huh?  Well I'll give it a shot!