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how do I ID A Dana rear end

Started by 41husk, August 28, 2006, 02:05:14 PM

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41husk

I think the 73 Charger has a Dana under it :icon_smile_big: it is sure grip and the cover bolts on from the back.  Is there any markings I can find to help me verify what I have under this car.  thanks allen
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

John_Kunkel

See below:
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

MOPARHOUND!

Yah, the 9-1/4 can be mistaken for a Dana.

The Dana will have 10 bolts in the cover, and have an asymmetrical bolt pattern.

The 9-1/4 will have 12 bolts in the cover, and have a symmetrical bolt pattern.

The challenge I find is trying to identify them in a pile of Brand X rears at the junkyard.
1971 Charger R/T, 440 H.P., Auto, A/C Daily Driven (till gas went nuts).  NOW IN CARS FOR SALE SECTION: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48709.0.html
1969 Charger 318/Auto (latest addtion): http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,31948.0.html
*Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go, and for how long?"
*"Build the biggest engine you can afford the first time."
*"We normally wouldn't use a 383 for this build, parts and labor for a 440 cost the same."

41husk

I will have to take a look it may be a 9.25 :'(
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

MOPARHOUND!

The 9-1/4 is a decent rear, similar in strength, (if not stronger) than an 8-3/4.  If it's a sure-grip, I'd be tickled.  :yesnod:
1971 Charger R/T, 440 H.P., Auto, A/C Daily Driven (till gas went nuts).  NOW IN CARS FOR SALE SECTION: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48709.0.html
1969 Charger 318/Auto (latest addtion): http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,31948.0.html
*Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go, and for how long?"
*"Build the biggest engine you can afford the first time."
*"We normally wouldn't use a 383 for this build, parts and labor for a 440 cost the same."

Chryco Psycho

most 73 s would have the 9.25 diff & no it is not as strong even if it is bigger than the 8.75 

41husk

it is a 9.25 and it is sure grip.  I was hoping it was a Dana :'(
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

Shakey

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on August 29, 2006, 01:50:07 AM
most 73 s would have the 9.25 diff & no it is not as strong even if it is bigger than the 8.75 

What makes the 8 3/4 stronger than the 9 1/4 but not as strong as a 9 3/4?

What determines the strength in a rear differential?

Chryco Psycho

Engineering , just making the ring gear 1/2" larger in diameter doesn`t make it stronger ... it could make it cheaper to built though
there are numerous reasons why one diff is stronger or weaker then an other , , the angle that the teeth contact & # of teeth in contact at one time make a Big difference in strength , the amount of brgs & the size makes a difference , the size & design of the brgs caps & bolts that hold the case in the diff, the # of splines & diameter of both the pinion & axles , the strength of the axle tubes , axle brg design , how many spider gears are used [some have 2 some 4 ] etc
The Dana is better in vertually everything I have listed 

MOPARHOUND!

Quote from: MOPARHOUND! on August 28, 2006, 05:30:34 PM
The 9-1/4 is a decent rear, similar in strength, (if not stronger) than an 8-3/4.  If it's a sure-grip, I'd be tickled.  :yesnod:

I emailed a well known Mopar driveline rebuilder the following question:

9-1/4 versus 8-3/4.  Which is stronger, weaker, or are they similar in strength?  and why?

This was his response:

All else being equal, the 9 ¼" rearend is stronger.

It has large, 31 spline axles, and a 9 ¼" ring gear compared to 30 spline and 8 ¾" ring gear.  The downfall is the C-clip axles.  You can get around this with weld-on housing ends and a pair of custom axles, however.

A 9 ¼" rear with Detroit Locker, solid pinion bearing spacer, retained wheel bearings and custom axles is a pretty stout piece.

??? :scratchchin:   

1971 Charger R/T, 440 H.P., Auto, A/C Daily Driven (till gas went nuts).  NOW IN CARS FOR SALE SECTION: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48709.0.html
1969 Charger 318/Auto (latest addtion): http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,31948.0.html
*Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go, and for how long?"
*"Build the biggest engine you can afford the first time."
*"We normally wouldn't use a 383 for this build, parts and labor for a 440 cost the same."

John_Kunkel

The 9 1/4" has another disadvantage, the axle shafts ride directly on the roller axle bearings; if the bearing fails you lose the axle. (I know there are bandaid bearings but they're not an option to me)
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Chryco Psycho

I have also split the axle tubes on a 9 1/4 diff
8 3/4 or Dana ONLY for me