rear brakes keep adjusting themselves to tight,any answers....

[bluesfool]

Okay, here's one more guess: when you replaced the shoes, are you SURE the piston arms that come out of the cylinder are seated properly and making correct contact with the shoes? If one cylinder is hitting off to the side of one of the shoes, and the other cylinder is where it needs to be, then the one side will be over-adjusting (maybe?). Even if it was correct when you put it all together, the shoe could have worked it's way loose enough to shift.

[69chargeryeehaa]

Okay, here's one more guess: when you replaced the shoes, are you SURE the piston arms that come out of the cylinder are seated properly and making correct contact with the shoes? If one cylinder is hitting off to the side of one of the shoes, and the other cylinder is where it needs to be, then the one side will be over-adjusting (maybe?). Even if it was correct when you put it all together, the shoe could have worked it's way loose enough to shift.

absoultly 110% sure it is assembled correctly, everything works perfect, the adjusters work perfect, i don't get how just shoes make the problem move to the other side?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Also assuming you installed the shoes correctly (primary & secondary)?

[chgr500]

Are these brake linings bonded or riveted?  You're absolutely sure there is no difference in the linings from side to side.  Especially the lining height of the linings themselves.  I know some after market manufactures use an increased lining depth to compinsate for the machining of the drums. How tight are the drums when you put them or do you have to adjust them out somewhat?   Funny how your concern seems to switch sides with the linings.  Would make you think the linings are related to the problem considering it was only parts moved.  Not wheel cylinders or drums adjusters.

[resq302]

Might you be able to get another set of rear shoes, say bendix or wagner and try them?

[69 OUR/TEA]

My coronet is a 68,which had a different style of self adjuster than 69 and up.Figuring maybe there is a problem with this system,on why my rears keep over adjusting,I ripped it all off today and to all the theorys in the past few days of this post,put all new hardware,shoes,drums,and the 69 up self adjuster kit.Also checked the e-brake cable to make sure it moves freely and was not to tight,causing tension on the lever even when not engauged.Another note,the wheels cylinders were new along with the rear rubber flex hose going down to rear end.Took it out for a ride for about 1/2 hour and everything seems fine now,but only somemore miles will tell.Will keep posted on how they keep working,here are 2 pics of the difference between the two styles.

[TylerCharger69]

6T9....ya know....that's a good point... both shoes ARE different!!!  I'm going to go out on a limb and agree with the primary/secondary theory.......

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

The smaller shoe faces the front of the car (primary)

Secondary (larger) is towards the rear..

In Our/Tea's pics he has them correct on his cars..... (left rear wheel)

[69chargeryeehaa]

i just took off both wheels yesterday, and examined the whole rear brakes off the ground (suregrip) so i could freely spin both wheels.  the shoes are bonded, and yes, they are correctly installed, they are monroe premium shoes, and there really is'nt a way to install them incorrectly because the self adjuster arm mounts are on the longer shoe, which goes towards the rear, and the shorter ones go towards the front of the car.  even though the drum on the passenger side gets hotter than the drivers, after over 1000mi there is no wear difference between sides, now i know what your thinking, and no it's not the axle bearings, i ran the rims without the centre caps, and the axle ends are cold after driving, and it's only the drum that is getting hot.  i'm baffled, i loosened the adjusters, put the wheels back on, and drove over 100mi last night, no issues, car rolls freely, and the passenger side was not that hot as before, i did notice that the shoes were worn on the passenger side where there was a grove in the drum outer edge, and maybe that was what was causing the heat, but the shoes and drums had no sign of heat damage or glazing.    so we'll see, the mystery continues.

[grouseman]

That pink spring is on backwards.  That long straight section should attach to the brake shoe.  The way you've got it the spring coils are binding on the shoe.  Just flip the spring end-to-end.  Looks like you've done the same to both sides. 

[grouseman]

Also, can anyone confirm if that pink spring is anchored in the correct hole in the brake shoe? 

[TylerCharger69]

I pulled a wheel off just to see..and yes it looks like the pink spring is turned backwards....Unless  mine is backwards....lol

[69 OUR/TEA]

not trying to start a political debate,but that pink spring in my pic is NOT on wrong,if you turned it around to have the coils off the brake shoe,the side you are talking about hooking on the brake adjuster lever is only half a loop and would fall right off the lever,look at the pics and you will see what I mean.This spring is just like the short one on top that also has a half loop hook that you put into the hole in the brake shoe.Anyway,drove the car alot today,and low and behold,PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!  Switching over to the 69 up style was the cure for my car(68).If you are still having problems with your rear brakes (69 and up),lets start here: first make sure the rubber flex hose that drops down onto rear is new,heres why.I personally had one of these flex hoses annurize inside and only let fluid go thru but not come back,thus holding fluid pressure against wheel cylinders which is like applying the brakes.Second,like someone else said,make sure your drums are not excessively worn and could be flexing and then warp, and when that happens when your brake shoe hits that wide spot and extends,It will adjust to the large diameter it sees,and then be tight on the remainder of the circumfrance.Third,with all this being in proper working condition,with you drums off,grab the e-brake cable in front of the leaf spring where it switches to two seperat lines and pull down on each to check that they slide smoothly and operate each side freely.With drums on,you should have just a little slack on the e-brake cable coming from the front of car.If that threaded adjuster rod has to much tension on it,the front,small shoe ,could have a little force already on the drum without the brakes being applied,causing premature brake wear.Notice the difference between the two year designs,68 is a solid cable going down to the lever,and the 69 up has a spring on the end of it.If you get on the brakes hard,and the shoes are in adjustment,when the motion of the shoes trying to go forward tightens up on that cable,the little green spring takes up the tension being applied on it,and therefore does'nt pull  the star wheel into adjustment further.Because of my brakes that kept tightening,one of my drums got warped,so I just bit the bullit and bought everything new,and glad I did because now it is a joy to drive.

[resq302]

Good to hear that you got it fixed and figured out what was the problem.  I never knew there was a difference between 68 and 69 shoes.

[TylerCharger69]

Yeah   i just noticed that my springs are a bit different  than the ones in the pic.   And then I realized......Jeeeees......this is a Ford rear end.....no wonder it looks different...Sometimes it just doesn't pay to get out of bed...lol

[grouseman]

Good work!  Congratulate yourself with a cruise tonight!