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'72 door hinge adjustment..update

Started by AKcharger, August 21, 2005, 09:03:08 AM

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AKcharger

My passanger door is about 1/4 inch lower than the fender. I removed and rebuild the hinges and I'm sure this added to the problem. I've loosened the door side bolts and slide the door up as far as it''ll go and loosed the body side as well foir the adjustment. Here's my question: does the body side go "up & down"? I thought it was just for and aft?.   Do I have to remove the door again to mage the hinge adjustment to the body??

Thanks!

AK

Nacho-RT74

ok, my frist thought and question is:
Does it match the door with quarter body lines ?
How is the "light" between door and quarter ?

The alighment order is first door with quarter and then fender with quarter, so if you have matched the door with quarter then you don't have to do anything with door... next step is fender with door.

IMHO you need to get lower the brackets located at cowl area, inside the fender where this rest at cowl. If you open the door,  look inside the fender you will see these brackets at a side, close to upper door hinge. There are two brackets to support the fender there at the same point, one horizontal and the other one vertical

My car is dissasemblied right now specially there but is not close to me to take pics.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

AKcharger

OK I'm with ya' and thought of that but the measurement on the passanger fender from the cowl to the top of the fender is the same as the Drivers side making me think the door is the problem. Plus where the fender bolts to the cowl directly behind the hood hinge is solid...if I lowered that inner bracket and the bottom I don't think it would do anything since it's "bottomed out" at that attach point...does that make sense?

Nacho-RT74

don't compare sides measurements because you will drive crazy... I'll post pics soon why I'm saying that, just align each part with the next one.

sorry that I have to say this, but American cars aren't made really with exact measurements... I can say that because I compare my Charger with my parents 75 Mercedes... sorry guys but is the trully and cruel true: Germany perfect engineering.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

70plumrt

from the pics, there appears to be one body shim too many on top of fender...
hard to tell without pics of bottom sill gap though!

what ever you do, a second guy makes all the difference!
when adjusting a door it's careful trial and error, but if you take notes of each try
it helps speed it up (for me)

i bet your pulling your hair out by now :icon_smile_angry:

Drop Top

:iagree: I'd have to agree with 70plumrt. From the looks of it the door looks good. Its the fender that needs attention. Then the hood will be out of wack. So you'll have to re-aline that.  :rotz: Its a never ending project.  ::)

Nacho-RT74

I think if you open a poll, would win the fender out of adjustment LOL
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

AKcharger

I know what you're saying but lookie here...how can I lower the fender, there are no shims, it's bottomed out?


Nacho-RT74

well I'm not saying there, I'm saying INSIDE fender, above/at a side the upper hinge. I did take pics today, and will post tomorrow
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

AKcharger

Roger thanks Nacho...just wondering how lowering that inside bracket will help if this one (above) can't go any lower. Seems like all it would do is make a gap when that inside bracket is lowered.

Thanks for your help!

AK

Drop Top

I might be looking at it wrong. But, looking at the top picture, it looks as though there are about 2 or 3 shims or washers that you could take out?

Nacho-RT74

I don't see shims there.

AK... the fender on top area is very flexible and won't stuck just for that. You can just get lower the inside brackes all that you need.

There is two brackets, the horizontal one supported by one bolt, and the vertical by two bolts. Get lower first the vertical the same amount ( more less ) that is the fender over the door and tight, then just loosen the horizontal bracket; fender weight will drop that bracket untill the verticall one is set... If not, just help it pusshing a little. Then check if need some extra adjustment.

Before adjust those brackets, get loosen the lower fender nuts, and separate the fender from the studs, to let it fall easier ( two ones below the "dog leg" fender ). Once the upper area is set, then adjust the lower area. You will noticed that the dog leg can be set upper or lower, front and back a little... with that you can also match the fender curve with door and also the light between door and fender. You can use shims there; assembly line used them.

This is a job that would be better do it before paint, but... so handle with care because you could chips off the paint, specially on edges.

Note... also remove the diagonal brace between fender wheel opening area and cowl, in front of plastic splash shield, that is the last part that must be assemblied on fender.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

AKcharger

Hmmmm I didn't think moving that inner brace would make that big a deal...OK I follow. Loosen 2 bolts on bottom of fender near rocker panel and inner brace/bracket near cowl...Copy!

I'll give it a try this week and report back progress!

Thanks again


Hi Drop top!!

70plumrt

just wondering, if you said the gaps at 1/4 and bottom are good?
was the car apart when you got it, or did it come with this problem, or have you had it a while,etc.?
my brother's 67 stang came in peices and had a similar situation...
i requested he get new clips and shims and we try another day,
but another day, turned into a different project car altogether.
so it's been sitting like that for a year

it does take patience and sometimes alot of tape
if the 1/4 and sill gaps are good, i'd say the fender's the problem
but even if a fender has been repaired the metal is sometimes streched
so a good used fender is sometimes the solution

i have more questions than answers
hope it turns out for ya!

Nacho-RT74

Talking about aligment... some pics:

You will notice that you can't compare between sides... look both of my doors practically perfectly aligned, BUT detail how they look with Pillar post ;)
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Sorry, forgot to atach pics...

this is passenger side
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Driver side... is a NOS door, but my old one wah was crashed and repaired long time ago, was in the same position... the pasenger side never have been crashed, and the car has been dented on regular transit but never crashed really to loose the shape.

Don't look door with fender... the fender is just placed there without bolt it to don't have it rounding all around.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Here is the brackets that needs to be adjusted... you can notice there also the new pin ( with a black retainer also :) ) and the brass bushings.

On vertical brackets you can noticed how is the enlarged hole ( below the bolts ) so is a fact that brackets needs to be aligned, even top of fender nut, over cowl area is not a piece to be aligned, except with some shims if there is something wrong with hood or hood hinges.

The horizontal one is not with enlarged hole since that bolts is able to be pivoted to match with verticcal bracket.

With the doors difference with pillar post I don't even have problems with weatherstrips. both sides matches with fenders, and this ones with hood with some minor touches.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

70plumrt

i think that last pic says it all :thumbs:

AKcharger


Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

AKcharger

One of those bottom nut plates is spinning plus had gear swap on the '70...This weekend!

AKcharger

OK we're good! the lower attach point was key. plus I loosed a few bolts on the cowl and near the hinge to pull the fender "out" a bit. Still not exactly perfect but well within acceptable limits....Thanks Nacho  & Plum

AK


Nacho-RT74

I'd drive crazy with that "minor" difference LOL
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

73rallye440magnum

WTB- 68 or 69 project

Past- '73 Rallye U code, '69 Coronet 500 vert, '68 Roadrunner clone, XP29H8, XP29G8, XH29G0

Nacho-RT74

HEY BUDDY I had the same stuff on driver side. and had to make the aligment thing on both, fender and also door hinges.. YES it is posible to get up the door a slightly ammount, maybe 2 or 3 milimeters. Check the light between rocker panel and door on front and back to try to get them the same on front ends.

Damn, is almost imposible to get the same light everywhere. I have totally different light on both sides. Passenger door is a lot close between quarter and fender, and fender is completelly to front, and on driver side door I have a big light between quarter and fender, and fender is completelly to rear.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

AKcharger

Ah, I'm callin' it good, interior is in work now..

Thanks