Charger1970's world famous headlight relay upgrade

[mopar0166]

Well i ended up using 10 ga for my wiring.  I also replaced the dimmer switch , put all new connections on, new ground connections and wires, and eliminated the bulkhead connection for the headlights.  since they will crappy at best.  Works great , hopefully i can put a load on it tonight!  1 day 16 hours till cruzin ocean city.   see ya there!   

[oldcarnut]

Got mine wired today.  Didn't have to cut or splice any existing wires. Put everything under the kick panel (fits good) and went sorta by Nacho's idea  .  Used identical color wire from another parts harness so everything was correct color coordinated.  Just have to run the alt wire.  Instead of running 2 wires I'm just going to run one and split it into the 2 fuses since only one of them is going to be on at any given time.  Here's a pic.

[Nacho-RT74]

thats exactly what I made with the exception I took the power from ammeter stud once upgraded from alt to ammeter throught firewall... BUT I would use a relay plug like this:



instead loosen terminals that could get accidentally lossen causing a short. Replace the wiring you made into the plug replacing the wires coming with the plug. Needs to use terminals with tabs to make that, like this ( tab slot is barelly visible but is there ):



or this:



the plugs I used hooks ( slides ) one into the other and keep both together, like the one pictured but there are several kinds of those Even ceramic!!!

[oldcarnut]

I'm not real sure of my amp gauge for now or I would have done the other upgrade too. Someone installed an after market amp gauge mounted under the dash with wires that are taped up to the harness amp. wires.  I found the connections loose and terminal ends burnt at the aftermarket connections.  I want to go through the rest of the wiring before I do much more with it. I didn't get any connection plugs with the relays. Radio Shack was out of them and I needed to get going or what your saying would be the best route to go.  I used their insulated connectors and some heat shrink on top of that. The slide/push fit is very tight on these so it would take a real effort to come loose. Maybe down the road when more time is avail., I'll redo it with the plugs as you stated. Thanks for the help .

[oldcarnut]

Thought I'd post a shot of what the aftermarket amp gauge had behind it as reason for others to check theirs when they get something new they didn't install.  Sure looks like it has had some heat issues on top of being a little loose. May have been part of my dimming and dash lights issue   : Decided for now to just take it out and join the wires until I make the new dash with a complete set of new aftermarket gauges.

[2Gunz]

Thought I'd post a shot of what the aftermarket amp gauge had behind it as reason for others to check theirs when they get something new they didn't install.  Sure looks like it has had some heat issues on top of being a little loose. May have been part of my dimming and dash lights issue   : Decided for now to just take it out and join the wires until I make the new dash with a complete set of new aftermarket gauges.

Loose nuts could and in most cases will create a heat issue.

[myk]

Ok, having beaten my charging system demons...for NOW, I'm going to finally get at this headlight relay job that I should've done years ago.  

So correct me if I'm wrong, but you cut the wires (low and high) going to the lights just forward of the 'rad support, install relays, then connect the wires into the relays.  Then, you also fashion a wire from the 'alt that will be fused, and then connect in to the new relays.  Did I get it right?  Please advise me if you guys think I got it wrong or have any ideas that might help.  

Some other points come to mind: the alternator output stud is getting really busy/crowded.  So far I've got 2 connectors that run to my starter relay (to handle the 90 amps of the Nippon 'alt), and the original connector for the output.  Now, I'm going to have to install yet another connector to power the relays.  Also, are we really only dealing with 4 wires including ground that connect to the relays?  

Thanks for your help guys...

Edit:  Just finished installing the low beam side, and all I can say is WOW.  I forgot to install the inline 30 amp fuse so I'll take care of that.  Is it really necessary?  I also forgot to install the high side because I was so excited, lol.  I'm not too worried about the highs because I don't use 'em anyway...

[oldcarnut]

So correct me if I'm wrong, but you cut the wires (low and high) going to the lights just forward of the 'rad support, install relays, then connect the wires into the relays.  Then, you also fashion a wire from the 'alt that will be fused, and then connect in to the new relays.  Did I get it right?  Please advise me if you guys think I got it wrong or have any ideas that might help.

I didn't want to cut the wire harness so I installed them at the dimmer and they're behind the kick panel out of site.

[myk]

In other words you just attached new wires to the dimmer and ran them out where they needed to go.  That's really smart, I shoulda' thought about that route...

[FLG]

Go 2 wires with 2 fuses. Another member did this and wound up being stuck on a dark road with no lights. The fuse blew and since the lows and high were run off that 1 fuse he had nada. If you use 2 wires with separate fuses, if the lows blow you can still turn on your highs.

[myk]

Go 2 wires with 2 fuses. Another member did this and wound up being stuck on a dark road with no lights. The fuse blew and since the lows and high were run off that 1 fuse he had nada. If you use 2 wires with separate fuses, if the lows blow you can still turn on your highs.

Thanks for reminding me.  I'll get on that.  I'm so excited I want to take it out and see my new/old lights perform with my Nippondenso based charging system but you're right-safety first.

Also, I guessed which wire from the bulkhead powered the low's, it was the purple wire.  Now, I'm guessing it's the red wire that powers the high's? 

And one more question: No matter where I put the relays I can't help but think it's vulnerable, what with 4 naked terminals and connections.  What did some of you guys use or do to cover these things up? 

[oldcarnut]

Read back into the page 3 posts around the middle and you'll see a couple of ways for the terminals.  I also used 2 separate fuses and if you look carefully you'll  see it in the pic.  I'm still using the original alt except I put in Halo bulbs but depending what else is running, it may still get a slight decrease but nothing like it did before the mod.

[myk]

Hmm...That kickpanel deal you did is such a better idea.  Well, like you at that time, I just had to get this running so at least I know it all works.  I still have to relay the high's so I'm not done. 

 

depending what else is running, it may still get a slight decrease but nothing like it did before the mod.

So, even with all of our 'mods and improvements, we still get a slight decrease?   I'm running the 70's style electronic regulator, with the 90amp Nippondenso 'alt, with two 10 gauge wires feeding directly to the starter relay, as well as the headlamp relay that we've been talking about, and I still get a drop in voltage/performance when the lights, brakes and idling in gear is going on.  Is that unavoidable?

Oh by the way I had one casualty:  I was just standing there, with the car and lights running, admiring my handywork when suddenly big puffs of smoke started billowing out of the engine bay.  I hop over all of my tools just to reach the ignition switch inside (I have a push-button start coupled with an ignition toggle switch) and try to shut the car off.  So here I am, thinking that I probably fried the entire system when I realized that my voltmeter's + wire had shorted to the alternator case.  Reckless, reckless I tell you!!!

In any case, thanks for your input everyone!

[Nacho-RT74]

Also, I guessed which wire from the bulkhead powered the low's, it was the purple wire.  Now, I'm guessing it's the red wire that powers the high's? 

yes

And one more question: No matter where I put the relays I can't help but think it's vulnerable, what with 4 naked terminals and connections.  What did some of you guys use or do to cover these things up? 

yes and I told to oldcarnut about the advice to use a relay socket. In that way you are saving that AND you cna replace relay without take care about where it was every wire plugged.

check this reply:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,168.msg675013.html#msg675013

he took that Idea from me when I posted about.

I think will run to take a pic of one of the relays locations on my car and post.

[Nacho-RT74]

ok, here the pics...

first: the STOCK LOOK BELOW THE DASH at A/C box. I had to use this section because the eassy acces. Didn't want to remove the kick panel, but will work the same.

second... PULLING OUT THE HARNESS you'll find out the relays hidded back/above the glove box liner. There you see the HOT buss wire ( red ), the pigtail coming from harness, and ground to relays ( took from AC box bracket bolt ). you can notice the wires coming and going from relays ARE SAME COLORS. Those are the originals arriving to speed resistor were moved to relay socket to the INPUT, then the OUTPUT already "relayed" runing back to resistor with SAME color. Advantage on this si the color will tell you what's teh relay function. On this case you can see low ( light brown ) and mid ( light green ) speed on blower.

third... THIS IS THE BUSS WIRE. With a bullet terminal since these are the best plugs to high consumption devices. Then the MALE bullet works like a splice to both relays. IF I NEED/WANT to attach another relay for whatever reason, I don't need to access to the BUSS wire. simply attach a third wire on a new male bullet terminal out of the harnesss, on a bench. Terminals are heatshrink tube protected ( double ).

I don't have to take care about the load on teh buss wire BECAUSE NEVER ALL RELAYS WILL BE WORKING AT THE SAME TIME. Max three relays will be working... one headlight beam, since never are both energized at the same time, and one blower speed set. I state max three because the low speed is allways energized by default when turning on the AC. If you set mid or high speeds, the low speed will keep energized but by OHMS LAW the LOAD will be runing for the higher speed, cause the resistor offer less resistance to this one. No load on low relay at this moment.

BTW sockets I used hooks/slides one on the other one to keep them together. Is the same I pictured on the reply I pasted

[oldcarnut]

yes and I told to oldcarnut about the advice to use a relay socket. In that way you are saving that AND you cna replace relay without take care about where it was every wire plugged.

check this reply:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,168.msg675013.html#msg675013

Yep, he gave some very helpful advice.    I haven't rewired in the socket type yet and still use the separate individual relays but eventually after the rest of the project is done it will get done.  I thought that info was back in the thread where he put the link to but I do have his emails that had a lot of good info. I can forward to you if he don't mind that would save him from writing it up again.

[roger01]

hello fellas ...my turn to upgrade with relays

  so , if i want to do this under my dash ,is it only the 2 wires at the high and low  dimmer switch  on the floor that i will be  tampering with?

[ACUDANUT]

 But I never drive my 70 charger at night.....No kidding

[roger01]

huh?

[oldcarnut]

hello fellas ...my turn to upgrade with relays

  so , if i want to do this under my dash ,is it only the 2 wires at the high and low  dimmer switch  on the floor that i will be  tampering with?

I'll reopen mine tonight after work and see if I can shoot some better pics for you.

[elacruze]

I did this upgrade on my car, and while it really improved the brightness of the lights, there's one safety/drivability thing I'd like to mention. I follwed the upper diagrams, the ones that Charger1970 posted. These diagrams are simple, and easy to understand. I used these as a guide when I did my conversion. However, you'll notice, it only shows 1 fuse. Each relay should have its own separate fuse, as BBD's diagram shows. I recently found out why having only 1 fuse is a bad thing. I lost both high and low beams last weekend due to the vacuum doors rubbing the wiring harness, and causing chaffing of the wires. The wires would then short directly to the chassis ground and pop the fuse. It's not fun, suddenly losing all lights on a dark country road. If I had the dual fuse setup, I would have at least kept my high beams. While troubleshooting, it dawned on me (after I blew about a dozen fuses) that I could have isolated the short a little easier if I knew which circuit (hi, or low) had been shorting out. Just my 2 cents.

This is definitely a MUST upgrade on our cars though.

Jason

Another must is using self-resetting circuit breakers instead of fuses. This will let you know you have a problem by flashing the lights on and off as the breaker resets after a short.

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/cgi-bin/ryderfp/products/product_detail.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@2065995208.1279472059@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccccadeklmfiidecfkmcgfmdfoldflm.0&oid=143202

[roger01]

great thanks

[oldcarnut]

hello fellas ...my turn to upgrade with relays

  so , if i want to do this under my dash ,is it only the 2 wires at the high and low  dimmer switch  on the floor that i will be  tampering with?

If I'm thinking correctly about what your asking I'm saying yes.  The picture I posted earlier was about the same as I would take again.  If you remove the hi/lo wires from the dimmer connection plug for the relay hookup and use a separate set to cut for the dimmer to relay then you won't have to cut your existing harness.  Some of the others mentioned better ways for using relay plugs connection than what I did and mine will be redone later on after I get the body work done and dash removed for restoring.

[roger01]

thats all i needed to know thanks ... i kinda thought so but i always like to double check when it comes to wiring
    thanks

[myk]

hello fellas ...my turn to upgrade with relays

Good move.  Have you done the aftermarket alternator upgrade also? 

Thanks for bringing this thread up again-I never hooked up my high's.  Now's as good a time as any...