K member isolators (73/74 ) change

[Nacho-RT74]

How do I change the K member isolators ?... Do I need remove something more than the K member 4 bolts ?

I tried just with that, but even they got loose, wasn't able to remove, not enough room.

Maybe also loose the rear crossmember where T bars are fixed ?... something more?

[doctorpimp]

I don't know man, wish I could help...
I have my entire K out for resto and the isolators just popped out...

[Nacho-RT74]

When you make a complete job that's the way, of course. I have made without engine and everything from a car I parted out, however How I can do on a running car, not dissasemblied ?

I tried last night making some forcing without loose rear crossmember but I wasn't able to do it. In fact when I get tired and get lower the car the K member doesn't match now with frame rails.  Car almost fall down suddenly and it looks when car touch floor, K member got out of place. I will check better this afternoon, but I'm afraid about somehow one frame rail was bended... DAMN !!!

My mistake... to use the regular bumper jacks to lift the car and separate the K member from body. I didn't find my hidraulic jack.

[hemihead]

And people on this board think you are the 3rd Gen expert? lololololol

[Nacho-RT74]

eeehmmmm I never call myself on that way, and in fact I don't really like that sticker even I appreciate...

maybe I can know something about 3rd gen but I'm not a mechanical expert

[moparguy01]

do one side at a time, put the car up on jackstands, on the pinch weld if you dont have it painted yet, then put a floor jack underneath the kframe, remove the bolts, and SLOWLY lower that side. then loosen but dont remove the other side kframe bolts and put a pry bar in there to push the kframe down from the body.

it's worked for me in the past.

[Nacho-RT74]

I tried something similar and even on that way I was not able to do it...

did you loose more than just the K member isolators bolts ? Rear crossmember ? Hoses ? sway bar ? I loose the fan shroud since fan was metting with it

[T16]

What isolators are we talking about here..?

Does my -72 Charger have them..?

[Lightning]

they're kinda like spacers between the K-frame and the Subframe, my M-body had them as well.


Nacho- for your problem, you might have to loosen the upper suspension pieces as well....I'll try to find the issue of Mopar Action that I have that details the Isolator change.

[doctorpimp]

Does my -72 Charger have them..?

No, just 73+

[Nacho-RT74]

they're kinda like spacers between the K-frame and the Subframe, my M-body had them as well.


Nacho- for your problem, you might have to loosen the upper suspension pieces as well....I'll try to find the issue of Mopar Action that I have that details the Isolator change.

That would it mean I will need to release the T bar tension to be able to loose the upper control arm base plate, and then align again the front wheels.

I think there is enough room between upper control arm shaft and subframe to replace the isolators whitout loose the upper control arm baseplate support... the problem is not the isolator itself like the room to inner bushing, what I think still there is enough room

any info will be great anyway.

[The Ghoul]

man, I don't know
those Venezuelan chargers are tricky.
71-72 fenders bolting right on a 73-74.... that's just wackiness here.
But on the USDM 73-74 chargers it is easiest to pull the torsion bars back and out of the way and lower the K-member down.
A cheep trick to getting your alignment correct after the project is to take some spray-paint and spray the upper control arm base plate before you disassemble it. This will allow you to re-assemble it in the same position it was originally in. Then at the end of the project just spray paint it the matching frame color again. 

[Nacho-RT74]

man, I don't know
those Venezuelan chargers are tricky.
71-72 fenders bolting right on a 73-74.... that's just wackiness here.
But on the USDM 73-74 chargers it is easiest to pull the torsion bars back and out of the way and lower the K-member down.
A cheep trick to getting your alignment correct after the project is to take some spray-paint and spray the upper control arm base plate before you disassemble it. This will allow you to re-assemble it in the same position it was originally in. Then at the end of the project just spray paint it the matching frame color again. 

Fenders bolts and matches perfect anywhere buddy, here and there. Diference anywhere is just wheel opening and front splash shield with valence ( bside 71 sidemarkers ). So nothing tricky here . Venezuelan Chargers are the same than USA Chargers.

That was a good one... paint the T bar bolt to get same position. Thanks. I don't need to touch the control arm, just loose the baseplate where is bolted since this baseplate only fit in one position to the K member, no adjusting there. Upper control arm is aligned to this baseplate and If I don't touch this alignment bolts, upper control arm will fit on same position.

I would need just to paint the T bar bolt. If I move and don't get back the bolt to same position my car will need new alignment. T bar needs to be adjusted before alignment.

[chargerkid]

As far as the isolators, its best just to get the torsion bars out and drop the k member.  There are so many cars out there that has (73 and 74) rusty k members.  The rear isolators tend to rust out the rear piece of the k member. So by dropping it, you will be able to inspect it.  They are stubborn and can be stuck on there pretty good.   Nothing like a smooth ride so replace all the bushings, check the gear box, etc.

[Nacho-RT74]

finally I could. I had to release tension of T bars, and loose the upper control arms baseplate ( 4 5/8 bolts ) since was imposible to get enough room to remove the isolators and bushing assembly and install new ones.

Thanks.

[73chargers4404]

hay ghoul is that your car in the picture ,if so do you have any pictures of the dolly setup you have to move it.does it move pretty good ,did you make it your self?

[The Ghoul]

hay ghoul is that your car in the picture ,if so do you have any pictures of the dolly setup you have to move it.does it move pretty good ,did you make it your self?

Yes
yes
and
yes
I threw together a good thread ages ago with measurements and all ... I just cant seem to find it right now :/
My only complaint is the casters dont swivel as well as I would like them to. Guess thats what you get for buying the cheep stuff.

[The Ghoul]

hay ghoul is that your car in the picture ,if so do you have any pictures of the dolly setup you have to move it.does it move pretty good ,did you make it your self?

Here ya go, just found the thing!
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9875.0.html

[73chargers4404]

ever sense i seen your pictures on your post ive been thinking that would be nice to have on my car ive been rolling around in my head on how i would make them and attach them and you just answered those questions .thanks man your awsome

[The Ghoul]

ever sense i seen your pictures on your post ive been thinking that would be nice to have on my car ive been rolling around in my head on how i would make them and attach them and you just answered those questions .thanks man your awsome

any time
If you, or any one else, have any questions feel free to PM me or post up on the link I posted above. I am affrade this thread has gotten a bit off topic.
so,
nacho, whats the good word?

[Nacho-RT74]

everything good after release the T bars and upper arm baseplates. I made the inner metallic bushing and used repro isolators made in here.

Still have some noises, what I think it could be rear crossmembers isolators and shocks lower bolt loosen.

Oh well I hope it is that stuff