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Change Oil Right After Cam Break in Or at 100 Miles?

Started by RT DAVE, July 27, 2006, 11:06:42 PM

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RT DAVE

My engine builder stated I could wait 100 miles until after the cam was broke in.  However, I keep reading that the break in oil and filter should be changed immediately.  Who's right?  The motor is a 440 with a hydraulic cam.   Also, what brand & weight of oil & filter does anybody recommend?   
68 CHARGER RT<br />06 MAGNUM RT<br />02 INTREPID SXT

RallyeMike

Why wait and chance it? You want to get another 100 miles out of the oil? Was it broke on 30 wt? You dont want to run that in the heat.

Mobil 1 15-50W has never let me down and I abuse it plenty. After using Fram for years becasue they were rated high a long time ago, folks here truned me on to the facts that Fram now is low quality. I researched it and it's true. I switched to NAPA Pro Select and even bought an extra one to tear apart and check it out. Looks like a well built filter. 
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

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firefighter3931

 :iagree:  Dave it's very important to change the oil immediately. There will be some small metal particles floating around in the oil (that's normal) along with the moly lube you used on the cam....purge it asap and install a fresh filter and fresh oil. Change it again at 500 miles and then normal intervals after that.


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Chryco Psycho

use oil with the zinc still in it or add Eos or similar product to increase the zinc content in the new oil , Comp also has an additive with extra zinc available

Just 6T9 CHGR

I used Rotella T 15w-40 on break in & normal use.....like the guru's stated above, drain it immediately :thumbs:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


RT DAVE

How about 15w40 Diesel oil?  I looked through some Mopar Action Tech Sections and he recommends using any 15w40 deisel oil for the first 3000 miles.  Thanks for the responses.  I have the car at a shop right now to work out some gremlins.   The only thing we've done with the motor is break in the cam and drive it around the block.   I have a 40 mile drive from there to my house and am wondering if I should wait until I get it home to change it.   I'm guessing no from your posts. 
68 CHARGER RT<br />06 MAGNUM RT<br />02 INTREPID SXT

firefighter3931

Quote from: RT DAVE on July 28, 2006, 07:03:40 AM
 I have a 40 mile drive from there to my house and am wondering if I should wait until I get it home to change it.   I'm guessing no from your posts. 


Dave, go ahead and change the oil and filter right now. Like the other guys said, use a high zinc/phosphorus content lube like Rotella 15/40 diesel oil. It's cheap (wallmart) and has all the anti-scuff additives that the new passenger car formulations are lacking. Use a good filter as well....Wix or Napa Gold.


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

RT DAVE

Thanks everyone for your input.  If the right people on this board told me to jump off a bridge, I'd probably do it!   :icon_smile_big:  I'm just going to have my mechanic change the oil now before I drive it home.  It's not worth the small amount of money I'll save buy driving it home to do it myself.   
68 CHARGER RT<br />06 MAGNUM RT<br />02 INTREPID SXT

firefighter3931

Quote from: RT DAVE on July 28, 2006, 09:41:25 AM
  If the right people on this board told me to jump off a bridge, I'd probably do it!   :icon_smile_big: 


No bridge jumping allowed  :icon_smile_big: You've got a new toy to play with !   :drive:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

PocketThunder

Is there anything wrong with mobil 10w30?  thats what i put in my 440 and i have about 20 miles on it so far.  I didnt realize you should change it right after break in.  I was gonna wait till 100 miles also.  Guess i'll be changing oil tomorrow. 

what about 10w40?
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firefighter3931

Paul, the only mobil 1 lube that has enough zinc/phosphorus is the 15/50 wt. The lighter oils are formulated for newer engines which use roller cams and don't require the anti scuff additives mentioned above. The Zinc also plugs up catalytic converters....another reason it was eliminated. That being said ; our old cars don't have catalytic converters and the flat tappet cams NEED the zinc to survive. There is an epidemic of camshafts going flat and most of it can be attributed to oil related failures.....don't become a statistic.  :rotz:

I'd be swapping that oil/filter asap. The rotella would be my choice for the first few thousand miles until the rings are fully seated.  :yesnod:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

resq302

Another good oil is the Valvoline VR1 (if I remember right).  It is a race oil and had an added zinc content.  My engine rebuilder said to use that with the GM EOS additive as the GM EOS was supposedly better than the Mopar brand.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

dodge freak

Yes it is, there was a post a month or two and I recall firefighter like that oil also. Auto Zone has it for like $2.80 a quart. JEGS wants $4.99 a quart, I am not sure why, but be carefull of JEGS , I seen other stuff way over price before.