heavy electrical problem

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok guys... You know I'm very carefull about electrical stuff and mostly I know what I do when I try to help here. But I HATE AND GETS ME  VERY ANGRY knowing what I know and when this kind of stuff it hapens to me.

Today was riding normally by the city and suddenly started to smell something burning... ok, parked and noticed the A/C-heater/acc fuse cavity was melting... I know this is kinda "normal" on Mopars since terminals and related stuff are weak. But anyway, this was more quick that normal, since on just 20 minutes or so, cavity melted more than on this last year, and I regularity use the A/C without problem, watching that stuff.

So ok, I just turned off the A/C and start to ride again...and guess what ? found the seatbelt warning light, key in courtesy light and map light completelly turned on, with doors closed. ( seatbelt and key in are both controled by time delay flasher on my car by the moments untill I add the interlock system soon ) These lights never turned off, so I ended removing the flasher to turn off. Sure is not the door ground since the key in warning buzzer is working perfect. This was around 4:30 p.m.

After my job ( I was reprograming moving lights on a discotheque ), at 8 pm, noticed NO DOME LIGHT WHEN OPENED THE DOOR and this fail: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,16874.0.html
WAS VERY NOTICEABLE INCREASED AND NOW the dome light was dimming ON SAME GRADE... VERY NOTICEABLE when I press brake pedal. I hadn't noticed this earlier because the daylight.

ok... I need to check this... but parking my car, I didn noticed NO BRAKE LIGHTS AGAINST THE WALL...

so now I have:
-melted acc cavity fuse.
-seatbelt and key courtesy lights pegged on... don't know if was when I pressed brake pedal that was turning on and then keeping lighted by the time the flasher was working but I was on traffic so I was constantly pressing brake pedal.
-Map light and dome light dimming on A LOT... more than before.
-No brake lights.

Nice Huh ?

as stated I HATE MORE THIS STUFF being so carefull as I am about electrical system.

I had a perfect fuse box 

[AKcharger]

Holy Smokes Nacho (no pun intended) what a night mare. Only thing I could suggest is check ohm from the bulkhead wiring block and see if you have any wires going to ground...sounds like one bad wire is grounding out...good luck!

[Nacho-RT74]

thanks...

Hey guys I have new one. Just wake up and went to my car to start to check:

-Opened the door and as expected no dome light, no brakes light.
-Remove Fuse box and as expected melted accesories fuse cavity ONLY THE PLASTIC AREA , however perfect fuse conditions  ( the one that drives AC blower, rear deffog blower, electric trunk lid and some more stuff )
-checked on back of fuse box, everything perfect, no melted wires.
-checked on back of bulkhead box, everythin PERFFFFFFECT, not even melted plastic or anything.

So once again I start to check what the hell was working and what doesn't and SURPRISE, I didn't touch anything but suddenly had dome light, brakes lights. Plugged again the time delay flasher and PERFECT WORKING, WHEN CLOSE THE DOOR.

At this time if I was worried, NOW EVEN MORE since with a fail I can locate where is the problem, but if fail dissapeared, HOW THE HELL I CAN CHECK WHERE IT WAS ? no way to discover.

Just was keeping the original fail, the dimming map light stuff ate brake lighst and opened trunk lid. I have to say that was alos dimmig with hazzards thatw as logical since hazzards and brake lighst are on same circuit.

Ok, so I decided to check everything underdash. Next step was remove the kick panel and all those plugs at that area. Unplugged rear harness and of course no dimmimg map light with brakes and trunk light, however was still with hazzards. Also unplugged the door jam switch. I decided keeping removing. Keeped the dome light plugged.

Next step, front speaker grill and speaker itself to get acces to constant positive source where is feeded the Map light, Glove box and time delay flasher, perfect conditions plugs and wires. Plugged and unplugged on all combinations and everything was normal.

Now starts the WEIRDEST PART. On my fight to locate the fail I removed the Radio to get room to all harness. Just removed and checked again everyting. SURPRISE !!! HAZZARD WAS WORKING ONLY WITH MAP LIGHT... map light was blinking, none of the exterior ones, just map light.

I didn't touch anything of front harness just rear one, so WHY I DON HAVE HAZZARDS ON FRONT ? NOT EVEN ON CLUSTER SIGNALS ?... just map light blinking

I have to say My Car has powered antena working with Radio, maybe that stuff is related with fail somehow. But the weirdest part is that anything is happening on Car on any condition HAZZARD MUST WORK for a while fuse is good.

Since I have disconected the driver side door jam switch opened the passenger door to check dome light, and was working. I forgott to check with cluster lights dimmer switch.

Now then I don't know why I decided to remove the dome bulb and guess what... NOT HAZZARDS LIGHTS ANYWHERE, NOT EVEN ON MAP LIGHT. plugged againg the bulg and everything back to later step, blinking only map light, but opened passneger door and no light. so I decided unplugg the dome light plug at kick panel. once again, no hazzards anywhere.

THAT'S HOW I AM RIGHT NOW. I'm something hungry and will lunch. I called to a friend of mine to remove all the dash frame to check wire by wire out of the car.

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok guys, my mistake... I found the melted cavity is not the accesories one, IS THE NUMBER THREE that drives constant positive source to Hazzard flasher, Brake pedal switch, dome light and trunk lid light. The confussion was because the A/C ( what is not the accesories one ) fuse is just the side by side one with this one. Long time since I rebuilt my harness and I was forgott the exactly function of every fuse.

So after cleared the confusion and this stuff seems to start to have SOME sense since now this stuff is related. I have to find WHY this fuse cavity melted up... a short without blow fuse ? I have doubts about that but it could be

I checked column turn signal switch, dome light harness, rear harness, map light harness, brake pedal switch and everything looks normal, none wire or switch grounded... just rest hazzard flasher itself and maybe headlamps and lightning switch for the dome light function what should send ground to bulb to turn it on.

so anyway... why when I removed the fuse I had "hazzards" on map light ? and why I didn't have "hazzards" on map light when I removed the Dome bulb ?

I don't remember if when I made this test I had already removed the cluster to know if headlamps switch was unplugged. I think yes I did.

[Chryco Psycho]

if the fuse connectors are corroded & creating a resistance across the fuse it will heat up the fuse connctor & not blow the fuse , make sure all the fuse connectors & fuses are clean &tight & have good contact

[Nacho-RT74]

if the fuse connectors are corroded & creating a resistance across the fuse it will heat up the fuse connctor & not blow the fuse , make sure all the fuse connectors & fuses are clean &tight & have good contact

Fuse box was practically new when I installed, but is true it is possible, but anyway, why I'm getting then the Map light dimming and rest of fails stated on my first thread ? That's what I think melted the fuse cavity. It looks a ground problem, yes, but I can't find where