Alterktion vs poly upgraded suspension

[Silver R/T]

what are advantages of having Alterktion vs if I just went out and bought everything for front suspension on my 68? Like change all the bushings with polyurethane, install wilwood disc brakes and basically everything else from company like firmfeel.com

[Rolling_Thunder]

ummmm  you would still be using torsion bars,  steering,  and weigh alot....     alterktion is nice and all but pricy...

[Silver R/T]

theres nothing wrong with using torsion bars, you can adjust them and also can adjust coil-overs. so basically weight savings advantage?

[Rolling_Thunder]

and rack and pinion steering...     

[Troy]

I had a whole list of things to type but a quick search of their site just let me cut and paste it:
Adjustable coil-over shocks replace the torsion bar system, and integrated upper shock mounts place your car's weight on our frame, not on the stock sheetmetal shock mounts. Rack and pinion steering replaces the original steering system, saving quite a few pounds, adding mountains of clearance, and providing nearly flawless control of the car.
Custom-designed upper and lower tubular control arms are designed to add large amounts of adjustability while being rugged enough to withstand the harsh punishment that modern hotrods experience.
Our specially modified spindles are lighter, stronger, and provide better geometry than the originals, and because they accept all Mustang II-based brake kits, you can outfit your car with anything from inexpensive auto-parts style kits to the most outrageous high-tech designs available.

Troy

[is_it_EVER_done?]

I would guess it all depends on what you are doing to your car, and what it's intended use is, The Alterkation conversion is a truly excellent piece, but so is the stock front suspension.

If you NEED to find the last 1/2 tenth, or plan on competitively autocrossing/road racing the car, then the Alterkation is the way to go, however, due to the fact that your even asking the question (no offense meant whatsoever), a rebuild of the stock components will be more than sufficient for you, and will save close to half the cost.

A complete AlterKation setup will run you about $3,200.00+ depending on the options you want. Sounds expensive, but when you calculate out the individual costs of buying/installing/rebuilding all you suspension components, upgrading your torsion bars, sway bar, a Firm Feel steering box rebuild, upgraded disk brakes, shipping, etc., you will have just over 1/2 of the cost of the Alterkation invested. but you will have (my estimate) approximately 90% of the benefits of the A-K.

The additional 10% may be well worth it to you, and could even be indispensable if your car wheelstands, is a competitive road racer, or if you just want the "Bling" factor, but I'm guessing that that is not the case.

Now for my rant (that I know will fall on deaf ears) -- Don't be conned into polygraphite components! If your dead set on buying them, go for the A.K. instead. My opinion is that they are pure junk, squeak, don't last for even a few thousand miles, produce a harsh ride (which some mistake for "PERFORMANCE"), and offer NO benefits whatsoever,

I use Moog components, upgrade the torsion and sway bars, Edelbrock shocks (the best I have ever found), Firm Feel stage 3 steering box rebuild, stock 12 inch brakes, and if you have the room (header clearance), go with the fast ratio steering and pitman arms.

But since I KNOW you will chose the poly junk (as so many do), you need to calculate in the cost of replacing it all after you grow tired of the harshness, and embarrassment of driving a car around that gets "looks" more for it's squeaking than it's appearance, and since it will be worn out in a few Thousand miles. -- Now your up to the A.K. price, so maybe it's the best way for you to go from the start. -- You decide.

Just my 2 cents, let the (pro poly) flaming begin!

[Mike DC]

I agree.  The AlterKtion setup looks nice but it's not the kind of car that most people are really building.  90% of the real-world-traffic-crusing benefit of the AlterKtion is probably in the rack & pinion steering, and now there's a modern rack & pinion setup that bolts onto a normal Mopar K-frame for a little over $1000. 

I'm not saying the AlterKtion setup is a ripoff or anything, but it seems like it's more suited to a "Popular Hot Rodding" kind of car.  When your Mopar still has actual sidewalls visible on the tires, it's probably overkill.

.

[Johnny SixPack]

I would guess it all depends on what you are doing to your car, and what it's intended use is, The Alterkation conversion is a truly excellent piece, but so is the stock front suspension.

If you NEED to find the last 1/2 tenth, or plan on competitively autocrossing/road racing the car, then the Alterkation is the way to go, however, due to the fact that your even asking the question (no offense meant whatsoever), a rebuild of the stock components will be more than sufficient for you, and will save close to half the cost.

A complete AlterKation setup will run you about $3,200.00+ depending on the options you want. Sounds expensive, but when you calculate out the individual costs of buying/installing/rebuilding all you suspension components, upgrading your torsion bars, sway bar, a Firm Feel steering box rebuild, upgraded disk brakes, shipping, etc., you will have just over 1/2 of the cost of the Alterkation invested. but you will have (my estimate) approximately 90% of the benefits of the A-K.

The additional 10% may be well worth it to you, and could even be indispensable if your car wheelstands, is a competitive road racer, or if you just want the "Bling" factor, but I'm guessing that that is not the case.

Now for my rant (that I know will fall on deaf ears) -- Don't be conned into polygraphite components! If your dead set on buying them, go for the A.K. instead. My opinion is that they are pure junk, squeak, don't last for even a few thousand miles, produce a harsh ride (which some mistake for "PERFORMANCE"), and offer NO benefits whatsoever,

I use Moog components, upgrade the torsion and sway bars, Edelbrock shocks (the best I have ever found), Firm Feel stage 3 steering box rebuild, stock 12 inch brakes, and if you have the room (header clearance), go with the fast ratio steering and pitman arms.

But since I KNOW you will chose the poly junk (as so many do), you need to calculate in the cost of replacing it all after you grow tired of the harshness, and embarrassment of driving a car around that gets "looks" more for it's squeaking than it's appearance, and since it will be worn out in a few Thousand miles. -- Now your up to the A.K. price, so maybe it's the best way for you to go from the start. -- You decide.

Just my 2 cents, let the (pro poly) flaming begin!

Excellent post!

Autocrossing is more what I'm looking for from my "69, and that's why I'm going to be "Alter-K'd".

The easy of installation combined with all the upgrades (including the 12.90" Wilwood discs) I'm looking at about $4500 from what my guy found out.

Is it worth it, hell yes.

But as the above post states, the fact that you're comparing those two options as equals means you don't need it.

[Mikesmopars01]

I am also using the Alterkation system.  I believe it was about $4,200.  I also have wilwood brakes all the way around. 

If you have a limited budget, I would just use the stock suspension, but I wanted something different.

There is also that new suspension comming out from XV Motorsports.

[Steve P.]

I agree.  The AlterKtion setup looks nice but it's not the kind of car that most people are really building.  90% of the real-world-traffic-crusing benefit of the AlterKtion is probably in the rack & pinion steering, and now there's a modern rack & pinion setup that bolts onto a normal Mopar K-frame for a little over $1000. 


.

Mike, do you have a link to this R&P setup that bolts on?? I've heard of it and seen one that looked like a fully loaded disaster.

Silver, a major reason people go to the Alter-K-Tion is adjustability. Also HUGE is the fact that the factory steering link is to the rear of the spindles. This means that your drag link is dead nuts where you want your (4 GALLON) oil pan. The A.K. puts the Rack in front of the pan giving you much better choices of oil pans. For drag cars and wheel standers this is HUGE!!!  It allows you to put a large capacity pan on your motor that is rather flat, keeping it at or above your Alter-K-Member. Not to mention more header clearance and ease of changing a starter..  It looks like a great advantage to me. I only question the tie rod ends they use for use on the street. Especially in very sandy areas...