Driveshaft loop compare / Keisler / pix.

[BrianShaughnessy]

Sometime last year both 471Magnum and myself were both trying to figure out a loop to work with our Keisler 5 speeds.
I had a US Car Tool special with the 4 speed but it doesn't work with the Keisler and both of us attempted to contact John with no luck.   I would have wanted to get a design change that would work with the Keisler but I got no response.   It's not like I wanted it for free or anything... oh well.

So I basically forgot about it for awhile.

So I have collected a bunch of the available loops....  if you're going to the track you basically need to put one in for a stick car.  I think the nhra time is about 13 seconds where they're mandatory. 

Anyway... here's my collection.

1.   The basic $25 Lakewood.
2.   My old US Car tool deal
3.   Autorust specialists.
4.   Metco.

So here's the deal...   Even tho my friend Rick recommended the Autorust deal...  it's only made of 11 guage and doesn't meet the 2" x .25" spec.     The Lakewood is kinda cheezy but it'll work and it's cheap.   The US Car tool deal is OK for somebody that doesn't want to drill holes... EXCEPT on any application you'll need to drill a hole to support the rear loop with a bolt  otherwise it'll vibrate and clang on deceleration  (DAMHIK).    So today I put in the Metco.

[BrianShaughnessy]

1. Before
2. After
3. Side...  yeah it's somewhere near that 6" from the front U joint.
4. My car last week 

[Silver R/T]

nice job, personally I like that orange driveshaft loop

[BrianShaughnessy]

nice job, personally I like that orange driveshaft loop

Yeah... whatever.   $100 and it's yours.      I'll include the shipping for that much 

[471_Magnum]

I was actually messing with installing a Lakewood on mine last week. Unfortunately, it's too tall. I have about 8" clearance between my X-pipe and tunnel. The major diameter of the Lakewood is 9".

The Summit brand loop is slightly smaller, but still too big.

Only way the Lakewood would fit would be further than 6" behind the U-joint.

Sooo... I either need to try the Metco, or fab something on my own.

Actually, the NHRA requirement is a loop is required on any stick cars running slicks.

[BrianShaughnessy]

Hey Jim!      I didn't actually try to fit the lakewood up there... and I didn't know about the Summit either.  But looks like the Metco is close enuf.   I drilled 4 holes.   I added some big flat washers on the top side.   They're hidden under the carpet still anyhow.   Only thing is that the Metco sites say it was supposed to be powdercoated red but it came black instead ...  darnit 

[471_Magnum]

I'm going to keep my eyes open for something new at Nationals. Presuming I don't find anything, I'll order a Metco when I get back.

Where did you get yours and how much did you pay?

[BrianShaughnessy]

Where did you get yours and how much did you pay?

They list some dealers on their website....  but I just did the lame YO thing for $75 + shipping.

[firefighter3931]

That's a stout looking DS loop Brian  If you're interested in selling the us carttol loop, send me a pm. 


Ron

[471_Magnum]

Got my Metco driveshaft loop installed yesterday.

I had to do a bit of massaging to get it to conform to the floor pan. Not sure if my floor pan is a little off, the the loop was off, or if I have it mounted further back than the original intent. The loop hit the transmission tunnel about 1/4" before the mounting ears netted out on the floor pan. I've got it one "rib" behind the front seat mounting bolts.

It looks slightly different than the one Brian has pictured. First off, it's read. Second, the inboard holes were not oblong. Mine is a bit further foreward than what Brian is showing.

The loop did not come with any reinforcing plates to prevent the bolts from pulling though the sheet metal. I thought that was a grievous omission. I fabricated my own from 1/8" steel.

It does clear my Tremec, and puts the loop about 4"-5" behind the U-joint, well within the NHRA spec.

[Steve P.]

Hey Brian, was there room to flip the loop the other way?? I'd rather the shaft drops out of the way of the yoke so that MAYBE it doesn't cause any more damage....