Qs on painting 'blackout' areas on '69 Charger doors

[69chargerrt]

Hi-

Question - on '69 Chargers (and this may apply to '68 and '70 Chargers, too)  what is the 'pattern' that the inner doors are painted to blackout the areas that are bare metal?     That is, the area just forward of the upper door pad and the areas around the door panel itself?     I've recently had the car painted, including the interior and while I can still make out in general where these areas are, I was wondering if there was a guide showing exactly where the areas are that were painted at the factory so I can repaint them.

Also,   is there any special prep needed to paint these areas?   And could this be done with a decent finish from a rattle can?   I'm assuming that the paint that goes in these areas is the semi-gloss black.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
David

[Mike DC]

 
Umm . . . why do you think these areas should be "blacked out" at all?
Are you saying that because this a black-exterior car?  Or a black-interior car?

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I've seen lots of high-dollar restored Chargers with the door's entire sheetmetal painted the exterior body color.  (So when you're sitting inside the car, there's a big strip of exterior-colored sheetmetal visible below the vinyl door panel & above the rocker plate.)  I've even had people insist that this is correct several times.  But on every original car I see, it's a different story. 

The original cars alway seem to have the door sheetmetal painted to match the door panel vinyl's color/gloss all over the inside of the door, up to the rubber weatherstripping.  Then on the "outer" side of the weatherstripping, the door sheetmetal is painted with the exterior paint color/gloss.

 

[Charger1973]

google search  "charger door"  brought this pic up.  maybe it can be of some use

[tan top]

if you strike a masking line through the door door weather strip clip mounting holes a follow it round but as you turn to the underside of the door curve  the masking line so it goes past the large ( vent channel adjusting bolt ) hole. right on the edge , so after you spray the black & and remove the masking there is about a inch give or take of yellow between the hole & and the weather strip holes in a straight line ,curving up at the other end into the weather strip holes . i hope this makes seance .

[y3chargerrt]

I used the weatherstriping line to do the door black. Everything inside the weatherstip was black and outside was body color.Not sure if thats 100% correct but looks great.

[69 OUR/TEA]

Hi 69chargerrt,my car was original paint in the door jambs,so I had a great reference to go by.It actually is not called the blackout area,it is a low gloss color of whatever your upper door color you have.If you had a black interior,this is why you would think it is was  supposed to be black.My car is B5 exterior,with C6D B7 interior,so under the whethearstripping was the break point from glossy B5 exterior to the low gloss B7 interior color.The jambs were stripped,then epoxy primed,then I taped thru the wheatherstrip holes and covered toward the outside of door,and did my low gloss B7 color(go far enough under the door panel).Then pulled evething off,re-taped thru the wheatherstrip holes again and covered to the inside of door,and did my B5 base then cleared.The low gloss B7 is PPG DIU interior paint,I made some up and matched before stripping my original paint off this area,but with yours its just going to be a low gloss black.If you choose to use a rattle can for this area,I would have to say to use a satin black for this to look as correct as possible,flat is just to flat and semi is just a little to glossy.Here are a couple of pics for you to see.

[69chargerrt]

Hi 69chargerrt,my car was original paint in the door jambs,so I had a great reference to go by.It actually is not called the blackout area,it is a low gloss color of whatever your upper door color you have.If you had a black interior,this is why you would think it is was  supposed to be black.My car is B5 exterior,with C6D B7 interior,so under the whethearstripping was the break point from glossy B5 exterior to the low gloss B7 interior color.The jambs were stripped,then epoxy primed,then I taped thru the wheatherstrip holes and covered toward the outside of door,and did my low gloss B7 color(go far enough under the door panel).Then pulled evething off,re-taped thru the wheatherstrip holes again and covered to the inside of door,and did my B5 base then cleared.The low gloss B7 is PPG DIU interior paint,I made some up and matched before stripping my original paint off this area,but with yours its just going to be a low gloss black.If you choose to use a rattle can for this area,I would have to say to use a satin black for this to look as correct as possible,flat is just to flat and semi is just a little to glossy.Here are a couple of pics for you to see.

Yes-  thanks, 69 OUR/TEA - this is exactly what I was looking for.

To explain- yes the interior of my car is originally black, so the door panels were black.     When I disassembled it prior to painting, I did note (and even have some pictures somewhere, but they're pretty bad) that the painted areas were a semigloss black.   Since the body color was beige, I would guess in the case of contrasting colors the factory would paint the exposed areas to match the interior color scheme....

[JimShine]

It is not a dead set pattern. You have a huge tolerance to play with. Here is an example. I hope it helps you get the estimated shape so you can get it right.

To the extreme bottom is my F3 green Charger. You can see the darker interior green taped off pattern. The other colors used those same patterns on both sides. As I am sure you may have guessed, if body and interior color were close, you may not find these lines. I have a light bronze with tan interior '69 door with no tan paint inside. I would guess black with black, red on red, and dark green with green may not be painted inside.


Here are some eBay doors showing the boarders.