News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

440 oil pan... removeable without moving engine?

Started by defiance, July 11, 2006, 03:25:26 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

defiance

Can a 440 oil pan be removed without moving the engine?  Mine's started leaking pretty badly (odd because the car hasn't been driven in forever and it just started in the past few days), and I'd like to remove/clean/patch, but I know there's some stuff in the way.  Can the pan be removed without lifting the engine?  If so, is it just a matter of removing the 'offending' components first?

Nacho-RT74

no... you need to release the center steering link from arms ( or the arms from K member/steering box ) and lift up the engine high enough to be able to pull the pan evading the oil colector inside the engine
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

defiance

That's evil....

Ok, I've gone so far with minimal shortcuts, so for once i'm going to TRY it.  I'm sure it'll burn me, but I'm going to try draining the pan, letting it sit until Friday in the hopes of drying up as much as possible, and JB welding it.  I'll put a small screw in it to try to block up the hole around the JB weld and give it some more strength.  I mean, worst that can happen is it doesn't work, and I end up having to do it anyway... I'll just be religious about checking for drips for a few months.

Man, I hope this works, I do NOT want to unbolt this engine... 

original72

you should be able to finangle something... i redid my oil pan with windage this past spring with the 440 in the car and not removing any accessories and only removing the center link.... then again car was on a lift also.... the hardest ones to get to will be the bolts in the front as the K frame semi hides them.... but with a good swivel you should be able to do it....

Bill

defiance

Hm...   well, I put on the jb weld right before seeing your post, so ... :)

I think it may work this time, though.  I drained it, waited an hour or two, cleaned the area thoroughly, took a wire wheel and got some roughed up metal exposed, then took a tiny drill bit and drilled a circular hole (it was more of a pinhole before), then took a large punch and made it so that the edges curled up (hoping this would keep oil from draining out the hole while the jb weld cured).  I then waited all night, then this morning I went out and there was no oil at all visible on or around the spot, so I think the punch might have worked to keep residual oil from dripping through.  So after that I put a blob of JB weld on it, then put a small screw through the hole to give the JB weld something to 'brace' to, then put another layer over the top of the screw and onto the outside of the oil pan.  Now, I'll leave it 24-48 hours before putting oil in it.

If that doesn't work, nothing short of removing the pan will :)