Recommendations on a new camshaft...

[28Texaco]

Hey gang,
Even though I've had my '68 R/T (auto tranny) for a couple years now, I haven't done much to the motor itself.  My mechanic recently suggested that I get a different cam and a higher converter.  I initially took the car in for pinging sounds under a load.  Then, if I'm understanding the problem correctly, the timing was set way way advanced (which caused the pinging).  But when the mechanic retarded the timing back close to specs, the rpm in gear was so low that the car would stumble (at times stall) from a start.  Also, it did not have a vacuum hose from the distributor to the carb.  Plus, there's a vacuum cannister where the battery normally is (battery is in the trunk).  Anyway, the mechanic suggested that getting a different cam would fix most of the rpm problems. 

This is the info I have on my car from the previous owner:
TRW forged 10:1 pistons,
Mopar Performance 284/484 cam,
Holley 800 cfm carb,
Stage IV heads, port matched, 3-angle valve job,
Holley Street Dominator intake,
Cheetah valve body, TCI 1800 rpm stall converter,
I do not know the rear gear ratio.

My Charger is a numbers matching 440 block and auto tranny, I want to keep it as a cruiser and so it will never see the dragstrip.  I would like for it to have a nice even balance between street and highway driving and still have a nice lopey sound at idle.  Would you folks kindly recommend a brand and model for a cam and maybe also suggest a stall speed I should go with?  Thanks for any suggestions...

[mikepmcs]

there are a lot of threads going around on this very subject(don't be afraid to use that search feature) and I once even started a pollljust to get some info myself.  Alot of guys seem to like the Engle cams.  I imagine firefighter and grouseman and a host of others will chime in here and get some info from you and fix your problem right over this site.  THere are some super smart motor guys on this site.
I do know that hose from the dist to the carb is probably your vac advance and if there is no hose are the ports at least plugged??
the canister below the battery is most likely your headlight vac canister(it is on my 69 anyways) is anything hooked up to it? I hope it isn't all rusted and leaking cause that will cause a major vac leak as well. sounds like you might need to start cleaning up the motor works a little first and that might even solve your problem.  once all the vac leaks are settled then I would go back to your timing issue.  THere is a great thread on here about timing and if you follow it to the letter, you might just solve your own problem.

You can check the gear ratio by looking at the rear for a little tab, on the differential that has it right on it.  or there is a spin the tire method as well.  if the car is jacked up in the rear(both tires off the ground) when you spin one, does the other spin as well?  if so you at least know you are starting out with a sure grip rear and I would guess 3.55's
I just wanted to say welcome aboard.

I'll try to find the timing thread for you.
v/r
Mike

[mikepmcs]

here's some articles to get you going in the mean time

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7838.0.html

found the tuning article, check this out.

http://www.sweptline.com/tech/engine2.html

follow that and at least you'll know if your timing is correct.

good luck
v/r
Mike

[Wakko]

I can't offer any advice, but as Mike stated, there are tons of threads on this site you can search through to get some more information.  Guys like Chryco and Firefighter (and quite a few others) really know their stuff! 

[firefighter3931]

The Crower HDP 271 grind would work fine with you stock converter. Great street manners, easy to tune with lots of manifold vacuum for power brakes and a slight lope at idle that is pleasent to the ear. An Engle k56 ground on a 112* lsa would be a good choice as well for the intended use of this car.

Ron

[Chryco Psycho]

OK so now you know why I recommend disconnecting the advance & advancing the initial timing with bigger cams .I recommend advancing the timing agan but less than it was to keep the detonation to a minimum but allow it to run better
I agree with Ron if you still want to change cams the Engle is a great choice & you do not need to change converters 

[28Texaco]

Thanks for the input guys...
How do the Engle cams compare with the Comp cams in quality?  Also, should I go with the hydraulic flat tappet or roller?  Thanks again folks...

[Chryco Psycho]

No problems with Engle quality + if you have a problem they will help you with warranty , I use mostly Engle cams for customers that want hyd cams
You need a differnt block to use the Hyd Roller cams